This is what Overcarbing Looks Like (pics and vids)

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I have kegged 3 times now and overcarbed every time

If this helps anyone...goooood.

I have also placed other home brewing info and problems just for FYI for anyone who may be able to glean some information from the mistakes that I have made.


Overcarbonation is strange,

Make sure your beer line length and inner diameter is correct first. Also, submerge your keg in a bathtub after you pressurize it with 20 PSI (empty) to check for leaks and also submerge the pressurized quick disconnects into a glass of water to check for leaks on that side.

Check the later posts below on this post. Typically you will want 3/16" inner diameter (ID) and 7 feet to 10 feet of length (usually 10 feet length and then you can cut it down depending on your style of beer). If you have 1/4" inner diameter hoses, then the length will change, but there are tables to reference, though most home-brewers claim that inner diameter (ID) 3/16 inch with a 10 foot long length of beer lines is the way to go. if you know your beer lines are correct (mine are 3/16" with 10 feet length) but you still pour a foamy glass (not the 1st warm beer lines foamy glass) and it tastes flat then you overcarbed. Too short of beer lines can pull CO2 out of the liquid beer, so fix this issue first. Flat tasting beer because the CO2 came out of the liquid beer and may turn into foam before you could drink it. Short beer lines can do the same thing, but you can also overcarb with short beer lines. Some pours will have 2-3" of head, then some pours will have 1" of head, some pours will have almost no head but still can be overcarbed. The head you do have will decrease quickly, and other times my overcarbed kegged beer had high head retention.

At first I thought that it was not overcarbed bc the head was not too high after 3 glasses and there were not enough CO2 bubbles rising to the top of the glass (off-gassing) even versus a commercially bottled beer. It was still overcarbed. I added 2 slices of lime and then took a photo and video of what happened. Just look at the hundreds of CO2 bubbles/off-gassing that is occurring!!!

Once I tried 30 PSI for 5 days and overcarbed. Next time I tried 3 days at 25 PSI and overcarbed. 3rd time I tried 10 PSI for 5 days and then 28 PSI for 18 hours and overcarbed. Set it and forget it at serving pressure is really the way to go IMO.

When I tried to disconnect the CO2 tank from the keg (thinking it was overcarbed) and released the pressure twice a day it didn't seem like enough gas was coming out twice a day. I should have kept doing it. It could take days to get the CO2 out of the liquid and into the "head space" of the keg and then out of the valve.

Here is 4 photos and one youtube video of the same pint glass of a Belgian Wheat Ale (Shock-Top Clone) that I overcarbed.










http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3XixeKTqn2w&feature=em-upload_owner#action=share

 

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Keg Line Lengths

Typically, there are 2 different trains of thought on keg line lengths. 10 foot lines with an inner diameter of 3/16”, or use the line length equation.
When using the 10 foot line, the serving pressure at the end of the line will be lower and thus the pouring time will increase. Many times you will not have as much head as you would desire in a pint glass, though this can be corrected by tipping the glass vertically at the end of the pour. As different styles of beer are served at different pressures, a longer length is a better choice as the serving pressure can then be adjusted.
When using the line length equation, use the following diameter resistance values:
• 3/16″ ID vinyl tubing = 2.7 PSI/ft.
• 1/4″ ID vinyl tubing = 0.85 PSI/ft.
• 3/16″ ID Polyethylene tubing = 2.2 PSI/ft.
• 1/4″ ID Polyethylene tubing = 0.5 PSI/ft.
• 3/8″ OD Stainless tubing = 0.2 PSI/ft.
• 5/16″ OD Stainless tubing = 0.5 PSI/ft.
• 1/4″ OD Stainless tubing = 2 PSI/ft.
Two types of resistance exist in the beer lines, vertical resistance (elevation) and horizontal distance (length of lines). A 3/16” tube has a horizontal resistance of 3 PSI/ft. Elevation resistance is 0.5 PSI per foot. Use the following equation to determine the length that you need. Length = (serving pressure – 1 – (elevation/2))/resistance per foot. For example, if you’re serving a highly carbonated beer at 12 PSI, then L = (12 – 1 – (1/2))/2.7 = 3.8 feet of vinyl tubing required. If you need the lines to travel further, then you’ll need to increase the diameter of the tubing.
As a general rule though, you can set your CO2 tank to 10 PSI, set the fridge to 360 F, which results in a carbonation volume of 2.4. A 3 foot long 3/16” inner diameter picnic keg vinyl tube will give about ½” of head in a pint glass.
A rule of thumb is that for each 2 degree increase in keg temperature, you will need to increase the PSI by 1 pound. Conversely, the same rule applies for decreases in keg temperature.
Another equation which is used by commercial tap installers is Length = (keg pressure + 5)/resistance per foot. The example used above in this modified equation is as follows: L = (12 + 5)/2.7 = 6.3 feet of vinyl tubing required. One main reason to not use this equation, is that home brew setups using kegeraters don’t respond to this equation; your setup is not similar enough to a commercial keg setup in a bar.

 

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A Short Discourse on Keg Carbonation

When you are dealing with beer in a keg you have three constituent parts that interact and affect one another: the liquid beer; carbon dioxide dissolved in the beer; and the carbon dioxide in the atmosphere of the headspace above the beer. How you interact with these three parts is the key outside influence on this otherwise stable system.
Dissolution is the process of attraction and association of molecules of a solvent (beer) with molecules of a solute (CO2). As molecules of CO2 dissolve in beer, they spread out and become surrounded by the solvent (beer) molecules. Technically, the solvent here is water, but for this discussion, we will consider the amalgamation of suspended particles, dissolved sugars, alcohols and proteins as a singular unit.
The rate of dissolution of CO2 in beer depends on temperature, pressure, degree of under/over-saturation, presence of mixing and interfacial surface area between the CO2 and the beer.
The rate of precipitation also depends on these factors. Precipitation or CO2 "break out" is of particular concern when serving draft beer. All four of these issues will come into play in maintaining carbonation when you dispense draft beer.
Equilibrium is the state achieved when the rate of CO2 dissolution equals the rate of CO2 precipitation. So when CO2 is in equilibrium with your liquid beer it is going into solution at the same rate that it is falling out of solution. Equilibrium does not mean that activity has stopped within your keg, there is a balance of activity and you are going to be affecting that balance each time you pour a beer.
In the simplest terms, each phase of CO2 within the keg (gas dissolved in the beer and gas which is not dissolved in the headspace of the keg) has a pressure all its own (partial pressure) which brings Henry's Law into play. “At a constant temperature, the amount of gas (CO2), dissolved in a given volume of liquid (beer) is directly proportional to the partial pressure of that gas in equilibrium with that liquid.”

At a constant temperature, the amount of CO2 dissolved in a given volume of beer is directly proportional to the Partial Pressure of CO2 in equilibrium with that liquid. Furthermore, the concentration of CO2 in solution is directly proportional to the partial pressure of CO2 above the solution.
The partial pressure of a gas is a measure of thermodynamic activity of the gas molecules. In other words the CO2 in your beer and in a keg’s atmosphere is in motion – falling in and out of solution.
CO2 will always flow from a region of higher partial pressure to one of lower pressure, the larger the difference the faster the flow. CO2 dissolves according to its partial pressures, and not necessarily according to its concentration. This is how over-carbonation occurs; the beer will continue to absorb CO2 as long as the partial pressure of the un-dissolved gas is higher than the partial pressure of the dissolved gas. The reverse is also true. A higher partial pressure of dissolved CO2 will force the molecules out of solution and into the headspace until equilibrium is reached. This occurs when the beer is too warm.
Because solubility of CO2 decreases with increasing temperature, the partial pressure a given CO2 concentration has in liquid increases. So then CO2 from a beer escapes much faster when the beer is warm because of the increased partial pressure of CO2 due to the higher temperature. Inversely, with decreasing temperature, the partial pressure a given CO2 concentration has will decrease allowing for increased gas concentrations or increased solubility.
In effect, you’ll start off with CO2 in two phases, one dissolved in the beer and one un-dissolved in the headspace or atmosphere of the keg. Each will have a different partial pressure until equilibrium is reached between those phases.
The beer's carbonation level is determined by its temperature and the pressure applied to the liquid within the keg. CO2 is more soluble in cold beer than in warm beer and the equilibrium of the partial pressures keeps that gas from escaping from the beer into the atmosphere above at any rate higher or lower than the equilibrium rate.
In a draft beer system, you control the applied pressure in the headspace of the keg using a regulated flow of CO2. You also control the temperature of the beer. These two variables are what matters most in a draft beer.
Beer that is too cold can seem to be flat because the CO2 stays in solution even after pouring the beer. The CO2 will come out of solution as the beer warms up. This is also why people belch after drinking beer, more CO2 precipitates out of the liquid inside your warmer stomach.
Under-pressurizing a keg results in a flat beer as CO2 slowly bubbles out of solution until it reaches equilibrium with the low pressure of the keg's headspace. It can also bubble out through your draft system. Over-pressurizing the head space in the keg results in an over-carbonated beer. If this occurs, you will have to release head space pressure over a period of time, until you reach the desired carbonation level. It may be necessary to release all of the carbonation over a period of 24 hours and then begin the carbonation process again.
The above article is partially from draft-beer-made-easy.com

 

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The Interaction of Beer Head vs. Carbonation

Over carbonation or under carbonation will not ruin your latest batch of homebrew as long as you have sanitized your equipment properly. Head retention has some impact on the texture and aroma of your homebrewed beer, while many home brewers maintain that the amount of foam in a pint glass is simply aesthetical. Foam at the top of your glass of beer originates from the CO2 flowing through the beer, while the stability of the head is maintained by proteins from the malt and alpha acids from the hops. Poor head retention is typically caused by improper equipment cleaning techniques or simply not having enough foam-forming compounds in the beer.
Poor Head Retention
Poor head retention can typically be caused by residual detergents which dissolve foam as it is forming which is why you should avoid using soap on kettles, carboys, bottles or fermenters.
Another cause of poor head retention may be an insufficient amount of foam-stabilizing ingredients which include hops with a high alpha-acid content. If you are making a hoppy beer like an IPA or an American Amber, then the recipe will naturally lend itself to fixing this issue.
If you brew an all-grain recipe, then you can make an adjustment to your mashing technique to coax out head-forming proteins from the grain.
Under-Carbonation
Under-carbonation can result in poor head retention, but is can also result in a muddled flavor profile especially with styles that contain a higher hop character. Under-carbonation brings out stale flavors and also amplifies other flavor issues resulting from poor recipe design or poor brewing techniques (including the steeping of the grains at above 170 degrees Fahrenheit). If you are bottling your homebrew, you may have stored your bottles in an environment with a temperature of less than 70 degrees Fahrenheit. Many times, if the environment never reaches 70 degrees Fahrenheit the yeast inside the bottles will become inactive during the carbonation process. Never transfer your newly bottled beer into a cooled environment like a fridge as the carbonation process will halt.

Over-Carbonation
Over-carbonation can result in a sharp and/or acidic taste from the resulting carbonic acids produced in the process. If this occurs from a bottling process, too much sugar may have been applied to the fermenting bucket before bottling. Many times a home brewer may assume that they are adding the correct amount of corn sugar to their 5 gallons of beer, when the volume of beer is over or under the 5 gallon volume.
The Problem is Neither Under or Over-Carbonation
Another possibility which may arise when kegging your homebrew beer is that the kegged beer may be at the perfect carbonation level, while the poured pint glass has a nice level of head though also tastes flat. You may have lines that are much too short for the serving pressure you have set your homebrew at. Make sure that your dispensing lines are kept at the same temperature as your kegged beer, and if you have a dispensing tower in a kegerater, you may have to add a cooling fan to make sure that cold air is consistently entering the tap tower. Some home brewers add copper tubing around the beer lines which enter the tap tower as copper is an excellent thermal conductor.

 

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Force Carbonating A Keg

1 – After the keg is sanitized and rinsed, the beer can be siphoned directly into the keg from the secondary fermenter. Fill to within 2 inches from the top. Many brewers will bend the dip tube, or cut off the bottom 1 inch to make sure that sediments will never enter the glass of beer.
2 – Attach the keg lid and then connect the CO2 tank to the gas hose and connect to the “in” ball lock (Pepsi kegs) or pin lock (Coca-Cola kegs). Adjust the PSI rating to 20 on the regulator and turn on the CO2.
3 – Check for gas leaks using soapy water or a spray bottle filled with SanStar solution, checking the connections and the gas lines for leaks. If you are concerned that there is a slow leak that you haven’t been able to detect, you can pressurize the empty keg to 20 PSI, seal it up and submerge in a full bathtub.
4 – Turn off the CO2, and bleed off the head space by opening the valve on the pressure release lid, or by removing the gas disconnect and depressing the center of the gas adapter on the regulator to purge the keg of oxygen. Turn on the CO2 tank again and Hit the keg with 20 pounds of pressure and release the oxygen once more.
5 – Low carbonation (for English style beers) is in the high 1’s and low 2’s, while high carbonation (for American style beers) is in the high 2’s and low 3’s. Belgian Wheat beers are around 3.0. Most brewers place the CO2 tank inside the fridge, which will allow for a lower PSI during the force carbonation process. Remember that pressure is directly proportional to temperature, as long as volume is held constant, so when you place a room temperature CO2 tank inside of a fridge, the PSI gauge will show a lower pressure as time progresses. This results in a decreased ability to determine when the CO2 tank is in need of recharging. Basically, the tank will show a low reading on the gauge while it works, and then one day it will be empty. If your CO2 tank is stored outside of the fridge, it will be much more accurate, as long as the room temperature is stable.
6 – There are basically two ways to force carbonate your kegged beer, “burst carbing” and the “set it and forget it” method. Burst carbonation uses a high initial PSI and a gas diffusion technique like shaking or rocking the keg to encourage a quicker addition of gas into the solution. For example, you may begin with 30 PSI for 3 to 5 days and then turn down the PSI to serving pressure for a few more days. The difficulty is knowing how long to leave it at the elevated pressure to get close to the desired volumes without overcarbonating the beer. An overcarbed beer will have an acidic taste and may be at 4.0 volumes of carbonation or more. If this happens, you will have to release some pressure from the keg once or more a day and wait until the volume of CO2 reaches an acceptable level. The set it and forget it method is much simpler and will not allow the beer to become overcarbonated, though it does take a longer amount of time. Looking at the carbonation chart, you set the PSI at the level on the chart for your keg temperature. Waiting at least 12-14 days, you can check the taste and carbonation level of the beer once a day until it is ready to drink. Most brewers claim that the taste of the beer is not acceptable until it hits the 3 week timescale.
7 – After the beer is properly carbonated to your taste, you can lower the PSI to serving pressure which is around 6-12 PSI and should be adjusted according to the length of your beer lines. Most home brewers use 8 to 10 foot long beer lines to keep the foam to an acceptable level, and also to keep the CO2 in solution as it passes through the lines. A beer line that is too short (5 feet for example), will pull the carbonation out of the solution and affect the taste of the beer.
8 – The first chart below is used for burst carbonating. The PSI that the chart indicates for your temperature and desired carbonation volume is the initial PSI to use for an unknown amount of days. You will have to lower the PSI at the correct time in order to keep from overcarbonating the beer. The second chart below shows 3 different types of force carbonating, a failed burst carbonation, a correct burst carbonation, and a set it and forget it method. With the set it and forget it method, you will have to wait around 2 weeks to reach a drinkable level of carbonation, while it may take 3 weeks for a completely equilibrated beer.

 

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Alcohol Content Chemistry

Ethyl alcohol is derived from two main processes, hydration of ethylene and the fermentation of sugars. The hydration of ethylene is the primary method for the industrial production of ethyl alcohol, while fermentation is the primary method for production of beverage alcohol.
Fermentation and Industrial and Beverage Production: All beverage alcohol and much of that used in industry is formed through fermentation of a variety of products including grain such as corn, potato mashes, fruit juices, beet and cane sugar molasses. Fermentation can be defined as an enzymatically anaerobic controlled transformation of an organic compound. With respect to alcohol, we are referring to the conversion of sugars to ethanol by microscopic yeasts in the absence of oxygen. The equation for the fermentation of glucose is:
C6H1206 -->
in the presence of yeast 2CH3CH2OH + 2CO2
The figure uses a symbolic notation familiar in biochemistry. It shows the stepwise transformation of glucose to ethanol through intermediates, pyruvate and acetaldehyde.

The initial fermentation mixture contains approximately 3 to 5% ethanol such as in beer and up to 12 to 15% ethanol as in wine and sherry. Higher concentrations of ethanol cannot be achieved by fermentation because the yeast becomes inactivated. In this case distillation is required to generate higher alcohol concentrations.
Distillation is a process that uses differences in boiling points to separate compounds. As the boiling point of pure water is 2120 F (1000 C), and the boiling point of ethanol is 1730 F (78.30 C), separation of ethanol from water can be achieved by adjusting the distillation temperature to a point higher than that for ethanol, but lower than that for water. The concentration of ethanol can be enhanced by removing it as a distillate from the ethanol-water solution. Spirits such as gin, scotch, bourbon, and vodka, as well as liqueurs, cordials and bitters are examples of beverages made from distillation. The distillation procedure also allows for the concentration of components of the beverage which provide some distinctive flavor.
This schematic of laboratory distillation shows a solution heated to force the lowest boiling material into the vapor phase. The vapor passes over the bulb of a thermometer at which point vapor temperature is determined. The vapor condenses to a liquid in the horizontal condenser that is cooled with a flow of cold water. The distillate is collected in a receiver. As the lower boiling point fractions are removed, the temperature of the distillate vapor rises. The operator changes the receiver at selected intervals to isolate distillate of ever increasing boiling point.
Pure ethanol (200 proof) cannot be obtained via conventional distillation of a water-ethanol mixture because a constant boiling mixture forms consisting of 95% ethanol-5% water (190 proof). Such a mixture is referred to as an azeotrope (azeotropic = a liquid mixture that is characterized by a constant concentration and constant minimum or maximum boiling point which is lower or higher than any of the components). Further concentration of the ethanol can be achieved by shifting the azeotropic point via vacuum distillation or addition of another substance to the mixture. Often times the compound added is highly toxic such as benzene, therefore absolute alcohol must never be consumed.
The amount of ethyl alcohol in any one beverage varies. Thus, there are differences in the amount of alcohol between beer, wine, champagne and distilled spirits. The amount of alcohol is given as a percentage and also in "proof". The proof of an alcohol beverage is equal to twice the percentage of ethyl alcohol contained therein. Thus, 100 proof ethanol is 50% and 50 proof ethanol is 25%.
ALCOHOL CONTENT IN VARIOUS BEVERAGES
BEVERAGE PERCENT ALCOHOL PROOF
BEER 3.2 – 9 6.4 – 18
WINE 7 – 15 14 - 30
CHAMPAGNE 8 – 14 16 – 28
DISTILLED SPIRITS 40 – 95 80 - 190
The above was partially referenced from www.chemcases.com/alcohol/alc-03.htm

 

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Cold Crashing

Cold crashing home brewed beer causes the yeast to drop out of suspension. Many brewers desire a clear product and use this process. To cold crash, place your glass carboy in a fridge or freezer and keep at 40 degrees F for 2-3 days prior to bottling/kegging. This encourages the yeast to go dormant, drop out of the solution and settle to the bottom of the carboy.
Cold crashing helps to compact the yeast cake and trub at the bottom of the fermenter, keeping more of the unwanted sediment out of your bottles/keg.
Cold crashing is also used when a secondary fermenter is not used in the brewing process. When this is done, 18 hours at 40 degrees is ____.
If you have the ability to cold crash, most brewers would say that you should.
Cold crashing is more beneficial with yeast that has low flocculation.
Cold crashing is beneficial for hoppy beers, as the final gravity can lower by 0.004.
Cold crashing/cold breaking has no effect on bacteria production as this is mainly an issue during the wort cooling right before the wort is transferred to the primary fermenter.
Cold crashing is not recommended for those who desire a cloudy beer, as in a Belgian Wit/Weiss Brew.
Cold crashing + gelatin finings: The carboy can be cold crashed for 2 days, gelatin finings can be added at ¼ or 1/8th tablespoon/gallon after being dissolved in a cup of water at 150 degree F. Five days later, siphon into the keg and begin the carbonation process.
The longer you cold crash, the longer it will take for the beer to carbonate. It can turn a 2 week carbonation timescale into a 3 to 4 week carbonation timescale.

 

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Cornelius Kegs Leaking?
Posted on December 6, 2011 by Rustik Brü Brewing Company

The time has come and the final decision has been made. Although bottling your home brewed beer makes it extremely easy to share your proudly crafted beers, the amount of time spent bottling compared to kegging is just too impractical on a consistent basis. You have done your research. You have asked all the questions you needed to ask to make the intelligent purchases. Next, you take the leap into kegging your beer…
Yesterday, after weeks of fermenting and conditioning, you were excited to finally keg your first five gallons of beer. You were impressed at how quickly the entire process went from start to finish. As a side note, you kicked yourself for not kegging your beer sooner. You pressurized the keg to 30 psi and placed the keg in the refrigerator.
Morning arrives and you check on the beer to make sure the force carbonation is going well. The eager anticipation quickly turns to confusion as you try to pour a test sample of your beer, but nothing comes out. Instead of being pressurized at 30 psi, the keg is completely void of gas. Chalking this situation up to some mistake you probably made, you turn to the CO2 tank to crank up the gas only to find the CO2 tank is empty. Now your confusion turns to anger. Somehow all the CO2 from the brand new tank leaked out.
It should be safe to assume that most brewers who keg their beer have had a CO2 leak in their system at least one time in their brewing career. Let’s also assume that all the hoses, clamps, and the CO2 tank are not the problems here. Let’s focus on the Cornelius keg.
As any home brewer probably knows, the Cornelius or Corny kegs are the old Pepsi and Coke tanks that have been taken out of commercial service and are reused for homebrewing.
First, you need to realize that when you bought the Corny keg, it may have sat for years without being cleaned or serviced. Don’t be surprised to find residual Coke or Pepsi left in the keg.
The absolute first thing you need to do is to clean the keg, sanitize and replace all five o-rings. Yes, there are five of them! Even if they don’t appear to be worn, cracked or aged – just replace them.
“Use keg lube and silicon spray and spring for the quad-seal o-rings from Mcmaster Carr for the dip tubes.“ – Jesse Fout
The picture to the right displays the five o-rings. The single large o-ring is located on the lid. The top two o-rings are located on each of the ball-lock or pin-lock quick disconnect posts. These posts are where you to connect your quick disconnect hoses for both CO2 and for dispensing your beer. To get to the two smaller o-rings, you must unscrew the two posts to pull out the dip tubes. At the top of these two dip tubes is where you will find these last two o-rings. Since you have the two dip tubes out, now would be a good time to clean and sanitize them. A 30 minute soak works wonders!
For those of you who are curious, the pin-lock corny kegs were used by Coke and the ball-lock corny kegs were used by Pepsi.
Since you have the quick disconnect posts removed from the keg, now would be a good time to inspect the spring loaded poppet valves. Over time, the metal springs will fatigue. The springs and the poppet valves should be replaced as soon as the kegs are purchased. It is easy to see when the springs start to fail when you remove the quick disconnect tubes for the beer or the CO2 hoses; beer or the CO2 will gush out uncontrollably. Once replaced you should get a couple years of service before these need to be replaced again. One thing to note here is that when the quick disconnects are removed from the keg, some minor leakage is common. So don’t panic! The poppet valves should snap back in place to seal in the contents of the keg.
Develop a maintenance schedule where these o-rings and poppet valves are checked and routinely cleaned. How often is the question. Every time a keg is reused is the best policy for routine maintenance. But if you slack off and only maintain your kegs every 3 or 4 uses, you may be OK.
Another way many homebrewers prevent CO2 leakage is by using food grade silicon spray and/or lube. This is applied directly to the large o-ring on the lid to give that extra needed seal (especially at lower psi – such as serving pressures). Jesse Fout, a long time homebrewer of Fairmont, WV advises, “Use keg lube and silicon spray and spring for the quad-seal o-rings from Mcmaster Carr for the dip tubes.”
To summarize: disassembling the keg, cleaning, sanitizing, and routine maintenance are the key factors in keeping your kegs from leaking CO2. In addition to these practices, the following list is a quick reference guide to tricks and tips for ensuring your corny kegs do not leak CO2.
• Replace o-rings regularly.
• Disassemble and clean kegs regularly.
• Check for dents in the lid where it may not seal properly – replace if needed. The lids can be bought separately!
&#8226; Sometimes a lower PSI (<10psi &#8211; serving pressure) isn&#8217;t enough to keep the lid o-ring sealed properly. Use food grade silicone or keg lube to give that extra seal.
&#8226; Sometimes you need to play around with the lid seating or reverse the orientation by 180 degrees.
&#8226; Replace worn rubber/plastic feet on the lid that keep the lid locked into place.
&#8226; Place pennies or nickles under the feet to give you a better lift on the lid. This is tricky to do, but possible.

 

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Gelatin Finings

If you use gelatin finings to help settle suspended solids in the secondary fermenter, pour 1 cup of water into a saucepan and raise the temperature to 1800 F. Knox or Kroeger gelatin finings from the grocery store will work, and is cheaper than your local brewstore&#8217;s selection. Add 1 tablespoon of gelatin finings to the water after turning the heat off and then wait 25 minutes. If you add the gelatin to boiling water, it will ruin the structure of the gelatin finings, and you will have to start over. Adding gelatin to the inside of a keg may clog up the dip stick. The gelatin works better when the beer is cold, as the proteins form larger particles in lower temperatures, but will still work at room temperature (700 F) in a timescale of 4-5 days; if crash cooling, the suspended solids will clear in 24-48 hours. Slowly add the gelatin solution to the secondary carboy after it has cooled for 5 minutes, but don&#8217;t let it cool to room temp, or it may sink to the bottom and not take a significant amount of sediments down with it. Chill haze results from not using a cold break (placing the carboy at 390 F for 7 days to drop more sediment), when cooled the polyphenols and proteins precipitate out of the beer and then when it warms up, they re-dissolve back into the solution. Performing a quick cold break after the boiling process will reduce chill haze. If too much gelatin is added to the beer, it may take too much yeast out of the suspension, resulting in a longer carbonation time, and a reduced aroma and flavor. Do not add gelatin to wheat beers, (some brewers will not add gelatin to Belgian Wits as well) and make sure that the fermentation is complete before adding the gelatin because there is a chance for contamination if the fermentation process is not completely finished. If you add gelatin to a keg, make sure to draw off about 2 oz. each day or the settling sediment may clog up the dip tube. Other brewers use a filtering process to clear the beer, which involves transferring the beer through a filter, though this may oxygenate the beer which will ruin the flavor. Typically, Ales and Stouts are not filtered at all, while American style lagers are filtered until they are completely clear. If you decide to not use a precipitating agent, make sure to not transfer a significant amount of sediment during the 2 siphoning sessions. You will lose some volume, but the quality of the beer will be increased.

 

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Hints and tips to solve common brewing issues.

Q. How long to ferment?

A. In beer making all time is relative to temperature. The warmer the brew, the faster the
ferment, reducing quality and the quicker it will spoil once fermentation has finished, that is, prior
to bottling. The cooler the brew, the more slowly things happen and the lower the off flavour
production. Learn to use your hydrometer to be sure when to bottle, having 3 days with a stable
reading is the only sure way to tell when to bottle, (this confirms all available sugars have been
used by the yeast) 10-14 days is about average but could extend in cooler weather. The
fermentation stage is the most critical time in brewing for achieving best results so take care here.
It&#8217;s not a race... Don&#8217;t be in a hurry and you will make better beers!

Q. Air-lock not bubbling

A. This is the most common problem of all. Usually the individual assumes the brew is not
fermenting so &#8216;out she goes&#8217;. Fermenters do not always seal well and if not sealed, the air lock
doesn&#8217;t bubble (moulding flashing is a common cause of leaks). First, assess the situation
properly by taking a hydrometer reading or by looking for visual signs of what&#8217;s going on. If the
brew is still fermenting, seal it as well as you can, get a new lid/ seal/ grommet before you next
brew. If it is finished, bottle immediately. Don&#8217;t throw it out, as it&#8217;s quite possibly OK. The airlock is
there to keep air out not as a guide to fermentation activity.

Q. Fermentation doesn&#8217;t start or stops early

A. Genuine lack of fermentation can only be caused by:
1. Not adding the yeast or the sachet is old and inactive.
2. Adding yeast over 37°C
3. Temperature too cold, below 16°C can cause definite problems for ale yeast (supplied
with almost all home brew beer kits). Warm the brew by using a brew heater or some
other method to 18-22°C. Brews will often stop in the later stages of fermentation in cold
conditions. Better still, at low temperatures, switch to proper lager yeast.
However 99 times out of 100 it will be simply poor sealing of your fermenter. Don&#8217;t trust the
airlock!

Q. Can I add another yeast?

A. Many home brewers add another yeast because they think the brew is not fermenting.
Often fermentation has already finished. The lag Phase for yeast growth can be 24-48 or more
hours. The anxious brewers gaze at the air-lock and if it&#8217;s not bubbling, they assume nothing is
happening. Fermentation is inevitable if the temperature is right, so use your hydrometer if there&#8217;s
any doubt. Don&#8217;t rely on the airlock that&#8217;s not what it&#8217;s there for! See also Q. Air-lock not
bubbling above.

Q. Frothing through the air-lock

A. This is a common problem in hot summer conditions. Absolutely no harm befalls the
brew; it only happens in the first stage of fermentation (called the Krausen - it&#8217;s actually a good
sign if the temperature is in the correct range). Simply wash the air-lock and refill it with water and
a touch of sanitiser. Alternatively ask me about fitting a blow off bottle.

Q. Mysterious hydrometer readings

A. While a beer hydrometer can be used to monitor the progress of fermentation; most
home brewers have definite problems in getting accurate readings. Where there is any doubt as
to which reading is the correct one, take the lowest reading or in other words, that closest to
1,000 as the accurate one. Before taking a reading, spin the hydrometer a couple of times in the
liquid to remove bubbles.
Tip: - A Refractometer is easier to use, faster, is more accurate, and uses much less beer (two
to three drops) per test.

Q. Bubbling won&#8217;t stop

A. Slow air-lock bubbling can continue for an extended period of time in the perfectly
sealed fermenter. Ascertain the correct time at which to bottle by using your hydrometer or
Refractometer. Don&#8217;t use the air-lock to determine when to do anything! Home brewers all too
often leave the brew in the fermenter too long because of slow air-lock bubbling or bottle too early
and over gas &#8211; even explode beers. Brews spoil fairly quickly if not bottled at the correct time.

Q. What&#8217;s with the Sediment in the bottle?

A. As commercial beer contains no sediment in the bottles (ok some do), some home
brewers become obsessed with achieving the same with their brews. It is impossible unless you
keg and filter it! There is always a small final sediment in the bottles of home brewed (bottle
conditioned) beer. If the beer is made correctly, the sediment should be similar to a coat of paint
on the bottom of each bottle. The obsessed brewers leave the beer in the fermenter for weeks
after fermentation only to find it has spoiled. They try to filter the beer, only to oxidise (allowed to
be affected by oxygen) or contaminate the beer, thus ruining it. The answer is compromise and
understanding. Allowing your brew short but sufficient time to settle before bottling and the use of
finings is the only way to reduce sediment in beer without correct filtering. Don&#8217;t forget we stock
beer filters...

Q. Which sugar for the bottles?

A. Carbonation drops make this task easy; two per tallie, 1 per stubby. Alternatives are
white sugar, Dextrose, (Better than sugar) Light dry malt (best).
Q. My bottles are exploding

A. This condition can only be caused by excess sugars in the bottles after capping. You can

create excess sugars in two ways.
1. You may have bottled too early, when there were still unfermented sugars in the brew.
This can often happen when the actual brewing is during winter. In cold conditions, a
brew can ferment reasonably while fermentation is active (generating a bit of heat) but
can stop prematurely when the activity lessens. The remaining unfermented sugars will in
time over gas the bottles. Monitor your fermentation temperature and determine when to
bottle using your hydrometer (3 days constant) not airlock activity.
2. You may have added too much sugar to each bottle. Some people are of the opinion that
if one teaspoon to each bottle makes a good brew then three teaspoonfuls will make it
even better &#8211; NOT SO. Crazily, some still believe that the alcohol content of the finished
beer depends on the sugar you add to each bottle! You may have primed a bottle twice
with sugar. It&#8217;s easy to do &#8211; If the odd bottle is inconsistent with the rest of the batch, you
have doubled up. Use carbonation drops they are a measured dose and easy to count, if
you lose track, most of us can count to 2.
Some rare exceptions are caused by brettanomyces yeast or wild yeast infection, causing
slow degradation of dextrins usually in high gravity dark beers and lambics.

Q. Over-gassed beer

A. Same as above but not as bad. Certain bottles or even whole batches of your beer
may at times become over gassed, while not necessarily exploding. This condition is also caused
by one of the above mentioned reasons. Bottles that almost fill the glass or jug with froth may be
brought under control by chilling the bottles to close to freezing point for a few days prior to
opening.
Q. Flat beer &#8211; little or no gassing
A. True flat beer is only caused by the following factors:
1. insufficient or no priming sugar in bottles when bottling
2. bottles not sealed properly. The capper bell may have stretched- it happens!
3. very cold maturing conditions (except true lagers)
Q. Poor head
A. If a beer refuses to form and then hold a good head; chances are the beer is either
under-gassed or insufficiently matured. Poor head is also common with cheaper beer kits due to
lack of malt in the mix, don&#8217;t be a tight wad, get a better beer kit, we are talking about a few cents
a glass here not sheep stations. If the bottle has not been refrigerated for at least 3 days prior to
opening, gas will not have had time to absorb into it and escapes with the cap. Use &#8220;Big head
liquid&#8221; if the problem persists. Three weeks is the minimum time it takes for the secondary bottle
fermentation to take place. It takes a good deal longer to bottle condition beer. I never open any
bottle conditioned beers for at least 12 weeks, and they are better at 12&#8211;18 months. Most home
brewers drink their beers long before they are at their best. Try putting a few aside from each
batch to age longer and you will soon have a stock of well aged beer. Once you see the
difference you will want to age all of your beers. Glass cleaning also has a lot to do here, don&#8217;t
use soapy detergents on glasses - it kills head if not properly rinsed. Use your brewing detergent,
scrub thoroughly and rinse with boiling water, don&#8217;t dry unless you have a clean glass cloth, air
dry on a rack or put them straight in the fridge. Nucleated glasses are a big help.

Q. Off flavours

A. Most often caused by too high a fermentation temperature. Yeast prefers a
temperature much higher than the temperature at which good beer is made &#8211; You can choose
whether to make the yeast happy or make good brews &#8211; I go for the brew every time, I drink beer
not yeast! Some off flavours in a finished beer are the result of contamination. This could be
caused by the water you&#8217;ve used in the brew, poor hygiene or exposure to contaminants late in
fermentation, or during bottling; If only the odd bottle tastes &#8220;off&#8221; then the problem is with your
bottle hygiene or splashing during bottling. Should the whole batch taste crook, pay more
attention to your method of brewing (temperature) and sanitizing next time. For instance, a
common contamination often comes at the end of fermentation. That is if you were to open your
drum very late, then reseal it and leave for a few days prior to bottling, chances are there will be a
white film on the surface of the brew when you go to bottle. This form of contamination can also
appear in the bottles. It won&#8217;t do much for the flavour of the beer. Bottle as soon as possible after
fermentation finishes. Bottle in brown glass or PET bottles, Light can affect beer in hours (even
minutes) the result is called &#8220;skunked &#8220;beer because it tastes so bad A.K.A. Light struck beer. It is
caused by certain wavelengths of light interacting with compounds from hops. Because of this
reason don&#8217;t bottle in direct sunlight!

Q. I have Hazy beer

A. Most home brews will take a week or so to clear after bottling, but should then settle
out (except wheat beers). If your beer refuses to clear after a reasonable time, ten to one it&#8217;s
affected by one of the following problems:
1. Oxidization &#8211; This is caused by excessive exposure to oxygen during bottling.
2. Starch haze - This means a hazy state created by the addition of starchy additives to the
brew.
3. Chill haze &#8211; Occasionally when a beer is chilled. It may become slightly hazy. This
condition can occur with any beer. It is caused by a slightly higher than normal protein content in
the basic ingredients. The beer is perfectly all right. There is no effect on taste, as it is a natural
occurrence, save these ones for black outs. By the way, haze is quite common and natural in
wheat beers. Polyclar VT added to brews prior to filtering will remove hazes from beer!

Q. Diet and diabetic beer

A. Both &#8216;diet&#8217; and &#8216;diabetic&#8217; beer are really the same and should not be categorised with
low alcohol beers. Low alcohol beers are basically normal beers with the alcohol percentage
reduced. In home brewing we assume that the fermentation (both primary and secondary)
ferments all the sugars available; however, the yeast cells usually leave a small percentage just
as you don&#8217;t eat all the crumbs on your plate. Home brewed beers will always contain some
minute quantities of unfermented sugars: however, many diabetics tell me that well matured
home brews give than fewer problems than normal (non-diabetic) commercial beers. Try add

 

[spaceyaquarius]

Oops, where the crap did my pics and video links go?





http://s1083.photobucket.com/user/s...bonatedshocktopclonebeer_zps10fb7833.mp4.html

 

[aslander]

Great info! Thanks