Will a dorm type fridge work with the following idea? Or, will the size be too much for the small fridge?
Please realize sizes are inches.
Thoughts?
Please realize sizes are inches.
Thoughts?
Dorm type fridge for cool storage.
- Thread starter Tobor_8thMan
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Ambient environment? Planning internal fans? Wall construction, how insulated?
OP
OP
Wood frame, insulation on sides and top. Fan to circulate air.
Define “cool”.
Your dimensions are in inches but the volume of your storage chamber works out to just over 42 cubic feet. That’s double the size of a large, upright, freezer. Do you really think the refrigeration unit in a dorm fridge is going to provide a lot of cooling capacity in that much space?
Your dimensions are in inches but the volume of your storage chamber works out to just over 42 cubic feet. That’s double the size of a large, upright, freezer. Do you really think the refrigeration unit in a dorm fridge is going to provide a lot of cooling capacity in that much space?
I'm just going to go with "that's not going to work"...
OP
OP
That's why I am asking.
A 5Kbtu AC unit as a CoolBot might work....
A typical dorm fridge is around 4 cu ft. You’re proposing to cool 10X that volume. You shouldn’t have to ask.
Tripper’s suggestion of a small AC unit is more in line with what you would need. Where you propose to locate this unit makes a difference in what would be the best choice. Window AC units are cheap and would be more than enough for your proposed space, but they tend to be noisy, and where and how to direct the heat from the condenser has to be considered.
NSMikeD
Well-Known Member
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/threads/using-a-mini-fridge-for-are-chiller.487583/post-6320564
^^^. some information on dorm fridge cooling power. as per the above post the average dorm fridge produces 150 BTUs That will lower 15 gallons of water 1° over one hour.
If my math is correct lowering 5 gals off 65° wort to 45° lager temp would thus take 6 hours (based on water, beer might be different). Then add the BTUs needed to cool the volume of air in the unit Ant0her rule of thumb is 20 BTUs for a square foot of air (with a 7 ft ceiling so you can covert that into cubic measures).
My back if the envelop says it will work, but you will need a few strategically placed computer fans for goos circulation (assuming good insulation and your don't need to access it often). It will have too work pretty hard to cool down,. Fwiw, I have two dorm fridges each with a 5 gal keg (one for fermentation the other for serving with a tap). I have thermometers wit external displays so I know the ambient temp without having to look inside. The compressors hardly go on maintaining temps.
Most dorm fridges with 150 BTU cooling coils will freeze the top section and let that cold air sink. In a kegerator conversion, that shelf is bent down to expose out to a broader section air. put a fan behind it and I presume there will be far greater heat exchange. Add that its not a room with heat producing electronic, people and entering sunlight.
I would also add that you can use large ice packs to assist the unit when you need to absorb the exothermic heat produce by fermentation or if you need to cold crash.
Another thought is you can makes two sections . One cold you can maintain at storage and layering temp like 40° and then an other section with temp controlled fans to maintain ale fomentation like 65°drawing are for the cold section as needed
^^^. some information on dorm fridge cooling power. as per the above post the average dorm fridge produces 150 BTUs That will lower 15 gallons of water 1° over one hour.
If my math is correct lowering 5 gals off 65° wort to 45° lager temp would thus take 6 hours (based on water, beer might be different). Then add the BTUs needed to cool the volume of air in the unit Ant0her rule of thumb is 20 BTUs for a square foot of air (with a 7 ft ceiling so you can covert that into cubic measures).
My back if the envelop says it will work, but you will need a few strategically placed computer fans for goos circulation (assuming good insulation and your don't need to access it often). It will have too work pretty hard to cool down,. Fwiw, I have two dorm fridges each with a 5 gal keg (one for fermentation the other for serving with a tap). I have thermometers wit external displays so I know the ambient temp without having to look inside. The compressors hardly go on maintaining temps.
Most dorm fridges with 150 BTU cooling coils will freeze the top section and let that cold air sink. In a kegerator conversion, that shelf is bent down to expose out to a broader section air. put a fan behind it and I presume there will be far greater heat exchange. Add that its not a room with heat producing electronic, people and entering sunlight.
I would also add that you can use large ice packs to assist the unit when you need to absorb the exothermic heat produce by fermentation or if you need to cold crash.
Another thought is you can makes two sections . One cold you can maintain at storage and layering temp like 40° and then an other section with temp controlled fans to maintain ale fomentation like 65°drawing are for the cold section as needed
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OP
OP
I've seen cool room plans using an AC. An AC unit is not possible for me.A typical dorm fridge is around 4 cu ft. You’re proposing to cool 10X that volume. You shouldn’t have to ask.
Tripper’s suggestion of a small AC unit is more in line with what you would need. Where you propose to locate this unit makes a difference in what would be the best choice. Window AC units are cheap and would be more than enough for your proposed space, but they tend to be noisy, and where and how to direct the heat from the condenser has to be considered.
OP
OP
How about this idea?
OP
OP
I do wonder about a portable AC unit. I could construct the cabinet a bit larger to contain the portable AC unit. Just vent the portable AC unit to the outside of the cabinet (as the cabinet is in the basement I don't expect too much hot air expelled. Even if so, the house central AC will handle).
Thoughts?
Thoughts?
Out of curiosity what is the purpose of the storage space? Is it exactly that - a storage space? Or will it be a controlled space for fermentation? If it's for fermenting I'd suggest the route I took - I've one bar fridge per 7.5 gallon fermenter. (For 5 gallon batches) the reason I prefer this is I can dial each fridge to the exact temp for the yeast in the fermenter and don't have to compromise if there's 2 different beers fermenting in one larger fridge. I've 2 at the moment and am in the works to set up 2 more. They can be stacked so 4 of them take as much space as 2 fridges side by side. I put a 2x4 collar been the fridge and door for a bit more depth (for the fermenter to fit) so each of them can also hold 2 x 5 gallon kegs easily if I need extra storage space while not being used as a fermenter.
Costs are bar fridge which if you look can be found very cheaply, ($40) a 2x4, Some PL4000, wood screws, a couple latches, a tiny heater (very cheap) and the most expensive part is something like an inkbird temp controller.
I guess all in I typically build one for $100-150. Compare that to the cost of material to build what you're looking at doing...
Anyway just an option - like I started by asking it depends on what the usage is for! Lol.
E.
Costs are bar fridge which if you look can be found very cheaply, ($40) a 2x4, Some PL4000, wood screws, a couple latches, a tiny heater (very cheap) and the most expensive part is something like an inkbird temp controller.
I guess all in I typically build one for $100-150. Compare that to the cost of material to build what you're looking at doing...
Anyway just an option - like I started by asking it depends on what the usage is for! Lol.
E.
Transamguy77
Well-Known Member
Ok so I’ve tried to do exactly what you are trying to do, only not quite as big as a box as what your trying to achieve. And it didn’t work, I tried using fans but the fridge couldn’t cool the air fast enough. And as someone else mentioned outside air temp plays a part, I don’t have to worry so much about that now but was a big concern before.
So one day as I replacing a heater core in some car at work and it dawns on me, this little “radiator” puts out enough heat to warm this car in the winter so the lightbulb goes off and I think “how well would it cool this space?”
I found a plastic bin that fit a heater core out of a ford ranger and plumbed in a pond pump and made a sprinkler that flows water over the cooling coils into another bin and through that heater core and I was able to cool that original box that was 3’x3’x4’ so 36 cubic feet to somewhere in the low 40’s in about 20 mins. I am now in the process of building a much larger box to house some new fermenters I acquired so when I get back to brewing I’ll be ready to go.
I am using a dorm fridge and I think running it this way I won’t have a problem cooling it for 2 reasons, first I’m not trying to cool that much space with just air and 2 it should not over tax the fridge because it’s liquid transferring the heat.
Ok I found some pics of my old setup.
So one day as I replacing a heater core in some car at work and it dawns on me, this little “radiator” puts out enough heat to warm this car in the winter so the lightbulb goes off and I think “how well would it cool this space?”
I found a plastic bin that fit a heater core out of a ford ranger and plumbed in a pond pump and made a sprinkler that flows water over the cooling coils into another bin and through that heater core and I was able to cool that original box that was 3’x3’x4’ so 36 cubic feet to somewhere in the low 40’s in about 20 mins. I am now in the process of building a much larger box to house some new fermenters I acquired so when I get back to brewing I’ll be ready to go.
I am using a dorm fridge and I think running it this way I won’t have a problem cooling it for 2 reasons, first I’m not trying to cool that much space with just air and 2 it should not over tax the fridge because it’s liquid transferring the heat.
Ok I found some pics of my old setup.
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OP
OP
Storage only.
portable A/C's just suck in air and blow it out....
https://www.supplyhouse.com/Danfoss...TKWjEaTAtY7J3mBimLkzd-M5QHuuePnkaAgQhEALw_wcB
Maybe?
or like a motor for a bare bones car a/c? not sure if this helps
Exactly! I’m currently running 6 of them - two of them as fermentation chambers, two of them for kegs on tap and two of them for cold bottle and can storage. Each is individually temperature controlled, I can go any temp from freezing up to 85 degrees ambient here in Southern California, heating not necessary here.
OP
OP
As long as I don't need to vent the AC to outside, will the following work?
You don't need to vent it for safety reasons or anything. But it'll put out a lot of heat. For every bit of cooling on the one side, there's heat out the other side, plus the heat from it running. Just keep it in mind especially if it's in a basement vs maybe a garage.
OP
OP
Yes, will be in a basement. Basement is normally in the mid 60's all year.
OP
OP
Nice calculator, but a bit limited thereby not giving me an accurate assessment. For example, lowest ambient temp I can pick is 85F. My basement is 62F.
