Electric Controller

[cadwaladr]

Hey guys,

It has been a while since I have done any AC wiring, but did up a schematic for my new control panel. Just wondering of someone could take a look, and see if any issues jump out.

The input right now is 110, however I have wired it as to make a 220 upgrade as easy as connecting internally to the plug, changing a bulb, and removing a jumper. The element wire is currently using a red/black. The red terminal has been jumpered to the neutral terminal to keep it 110. There is NO 220 brought into the panel at this point, even hooking a 220 plug would not travel through the connector into a terminal.

-I have wired in a emergency off using a mushroom NC switch.
-I have run my contactor element relay control through my pump switch to ensure that it is not operable unless the pump is also running.
My second PID is currently temp disp only.
It is setup now to control my RIMS, yeah I know, overkill, but I wanted it to grow with my system.
all plugs are twist lock, and do not have live male prongs

Please let me know what you think



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[jCOSbrew]

Looks pretty good.

It looks like the PID is switching the jumpered Neutral signal on your diagram.
Change this so that PID switches the 110v HOT signal.

Also, why is the PID coil (and ON/OFF switch) connected to the PUMP ON/OFF switch? Maybe you don't want the pump running at the same time as the element, in which case you could use a 3-position switch.

I would put the 10 amp fuse near the power input (bypass fuse for contactor input for element) and a single 1 amp fuse after the contactor for PID and low power signals.

 

[cadwaladr]

Thanks for the advice, and looking it over. Just some further questions on your suggestions

1. PID is switching the neutral, and contactor relay is controlling the hot wire. Should it not be done this way? My thinking was that this would accomplish the element being disabled unless both are on, and allow for easier upgrade to 220v when I go that way

2. I purposely ran the switch for the element through the pump switch as it is controlling a rims element, so the element needs to be disabled unless the pump is running.

3.good suggestion about the 10 amp fuse being placed in early.

Looks pretty good.

It looks like the PID is switching the jumpered Neutral signal on your diagram.
Change this so that PID switches the 110v HOT signal.

Also, why is the PID coil (and ON/OFF switch) connected to the PUMP ON/OFF switch? Maybe you don't want the pump running at the same time as the element, in which case you could use a 3-position switch.

I would put the 10 amp fuse near the power input (bypass fuse for contactor input for element) and a single 1 amp fuse after the contactor for PID and low power signals.

 

[orangehero]

I think it should be ok to switch the neutral with the SSR, but you can wire to switch the hot coming from the main power contactor just the same (just swap the destinations of the blue and red coming out of the main power contactor before the element contactor). I don't see how it would change making the upgrade any easier, it would be indentical.

 

[cadwaladr]

Where do you see the PID switching neutral?

The PID doesn't switch neutral or hot (unless it's for the alarm, which you have drawn correctly), the PID outputs a DC control signal for the SSR.

I think he meant that the pid was controlling the relay that was switching neutral. Does this work?

 

[cadwaladr]

I ended up running 220 tonight... had enough of trying to make due with 110! 5500w here I come