Home Depot DIY Water Filter

Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum

Help Support Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

berrywise

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jun 21, 2010
Messages
288
Reaction score
56
Before I begin I first must give props where props are due. I based this setup off johnsma22's near identical setup posted here.

My setup is very close to what johnsma22 did but instead of building a bracket like lustreking did I used the bracket included with the GE water filter to have a permanent mount on my keg to hang it from. Also having sourced everything from Home Depot (vs. Lowes) I'm including the part numbers for each item in case anyone wishes to replicate it.

waterfilter01.jpg



The following hardware I already had but here is what I used to mount the unit:
  • 10-24 1" Pan Head screw (x2)
  • 10-24 Nylon Lock Nuts (x2)
  • #10 flat washer stainless steel (x4)
  • 10-24 Hex Nut stainless steel (x2)

Mounts to keg wall while filling
waterfilter02.jpg


Pipe goes through the keg handle
waterfilter03.jpg


Could have done a little better job lining up my bolts and holes
waterfilter04.jpg


When you are done filling the unit comes off and I'm ready to light my flame.
waterfilter05.jpg


Lastly I also use a 50' white RV hose to run water from the spigot in my garage to where I brew (additional $15-20)

Hope this is helpful for anyone looking to do a similar project from Home Depot :mug: .
 
Thanks for the write up, I've been looking to do this myself - glad I don't need to think it through now :drunk:

Also, nice pictures/camera
 
Nice build and pics. Does that filter do chloramines? The HD description is a bit vague.
 
I built the same setup recently. I don't think standard carbon filters remove chloramine, however, some quick Googling showed that simple Vitamin C (i.e., Citric Acid) can break apart the chlorine and ammonia bond, which carbon can then filter out.

Alternately, you can find a catalyst carbon filter designed to remove chloramines.
 
Thanks for posting the great explanation and pictures. I had a question regarding your storage of the filter when it's not in use. I've read that some people disassemble and drain the filter and allow the filter to dry between uses. Is this necessary or overkill? Thanks again.
 
Thanks for posting the great explanation and pictures. I had a question regarding your storage of the filter when it's not in use. I've read that some people disassemble and drain the filter and allow the filter to dry between uses. Is this necessary or overkill? Thanks again.

I don't know if it is overkill or not but I figure it sure cannot hurt. I always take mine apart and let the filter dry out. I figure the water would get pretty stagnant just sitting in there between brew days unlike a filter being used for water in your home where you are constantly cycling water through it.
 
I always take my filter out after use, and at the very least, shake it out quite well and let it sit for awhile before putting it back together. Also, I run at least five gallons through it every time I use it before I put the output into the kettle.
 
Do you really need the 3/4 in. x 1/2 in. Brass H x MPT Hose Adapter? My shutoff screws right into the filter without any issues. Haven't hooked any water up yet, but just curious.
 
Do you really need the 3/4 in. x 1/2 in. Brass H x MPT Hose Adapter? My shutoff screws right into the filter without any issues. Haven't hooked any water up yet, but just curious.

My intentions there were to save me any problems of stripping the plastic threads by continuously screwing and unscrewing it. If you were careful you most likely wouldn't have any problems.
 
My intentions there were to save me any problems of stripping the plastic threads by continuously screwing and unscrewing it. If you were careful you most likely wouldn't have any problems.

I had a feeling that was the reasoning behind it, just wanted clarification. Neither HD or Menards had that brass adapter, but I ordered it, so for now I will just use with the shutoff straight in and just swap it when the adapter comes in.
 
I made one of these today. Be careful when screwing in the brass adapter. If its not straight it will strip the threads very easily. Luckily I caught it in time and only stripped about one or two threads. Besides that this is an excellent DIY and will save me about $6-$7 a batch that I was spending on bottled water. So I figure about 6-7 batches and I'll get my money back.
 
So I pieced together a very similar thing today and then when I got home I got thinking. With all these garden hose brass fittings, or like the original build a zinc valve has anyone thought about the leaching going on?

I know on my disconnects and valve it specifically says not to use it for indoor drinking water use. Now the watts part is supposedly lead free but apparently not the other parts.

This might be me being a bit paranoid but I thought it was valid enough to bring it up for others thoughts.
 
Thanks for the parts list. I went to Home Depot today and got all the parts. It only took a few minutes to put together.

I'm going to install it on the wall behind my hlt. I may install a quick disconnect so I can connect the hose easier.
 
I like it. Thanks for the pics. I had issues with my hose connects from H.D. Every time they got torqued a little bit they leaked. That 3/4" with the valve is pretty slick.
 
Why have none of these DIY filters used camlock or other forms of quick disconnects? I plan on doing a water filter set up, but I would like it to be stationary and attached to my brew stand. This would require QD's so that the hoses can be disconnected when not in use.

Is the reason for not using camlocks solely due to the price? Is it because they would leak more? I'm just a little confused why no one has used 3/4" x 1/2" bushing attached to a 1/2" male groove camlock.
 
Why have none of these DIY filters used camlock or other forms of quick disconnects? I plan on doing a water filter set up, but I would like it to be stationary and attached to my brew stand. This would require QD's so that the hoses can be disconnected when not in use.

Is the reason for not using camlocks solely due to the price? Is it because they would leak more? I'm just a little confused why no one has used 3/4" x 1/2" bushing attached to a 1/2" male groove camlock.

That's what I did. The filter has a male on one side and female on the other. Doesn't leak, and you can take it off empty it and put it away.

IMG_0454A.jpg
 
Your water is probably excellent but I'm sure it still has chlorine or chloramines. Both are bad news for brewing water. Carbon filters remove both and that's about it.

I have pretty good brewing water here too...after removing the chlorine.
 
bobotwf said:
That's what I did. The filter has a male on one side and female on the other. Doesn't leak, and you can take it off empty it and put it away.

Nice! How did you work with the male end? Whenever I see bushings I see that the male end is larger than the female end (I.e 3/4" x 1/2" is MPT then FPT)

Do you clean your pots with filtered water? That sounds like a waste, but I guess these cheap filters have lifetimes on the thousands of gallons anyways, probably not worth worrying about it.
 
Nice! How did you work with the male end? Whenever I see bushings I see that the male end is larger than the female end (I.e 3/4" x 1/2" is MPT then FPT)

The filter is 3/4 Female, the bushing is 3/4M x 1/2F. One of the camlocks is 1/2M the other 1/2F and I just use a nipple, but that's just because I had a female one, they make males too.

Do you clean your pots with filtered water? That sounds like a waste, but I guess these cheap filters have lifetimes on the thousands of gallons anyways, probably not worth worrying about it.

No, my filter has a thing on the top(bottom in the picture) you turn from "Filter" to "Off" to "Bypass". I just flip it to bypass when I remember. My guess is cleaning with filtered water wouldn't really matter though, you can only use so much water.
 
Careful with your flow rate through a 10" x 2.5" carbon block. You could easily push water through that filter faster than the carbon can treat it. If you have chlorine, think about limiting flow to a max of about 0.5 gpm. If you have chloramines, you'll want flow slower yet. Also consider a second carbon block like a Chloraguard if dealing with chloramines. The Chloraguard is made from a faster acting carbon than your run-of-the mill carbon block.

Russ
 
Beautiful build!! Has any one tried to hook it up to a hot water tank (to lessen the amount of propane i use). I recently had a new water heater put in. Any advice? Is this a good thing or a bad thing?

Thanks
 
Beautiful build!! Has any one tried to hook it up to a hot water tank (to lessen the amount of propane i use). I recently had a new water heater put in. Any advice? Is this a good thing or a bad thing?

Thanks


I use an inline filter designed for use w/ hot water. Some filter cartridges are not rated for higher temps.
I have both a hot & cold water hose bib in my brewery (garage) next to my sink. The hot water comes directly from the water heater. It does save time & propane.
I use a beverage grade hose connected to the filter for easy filling of my HLT.
 
Back
Top