keg disappointment

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This is what I do. I'm sure some will disagree with it but this is what I do and have had zero issues. I rinse out the keg, then fill it with a gallon or so of hot water and pbw. Shake it around a bit. Then I let it sit for a few minutes, while its sitting I remove the liquid post and lid and set them in some hot water and pbw. After the few minutes I drain the keg and rinse with hot and cold water again. Also rinsing the lid and post, and then I fill it with some cold water and star-san and shake it around a bit. Before I put the post back on I spray it down inside and out with my star-san mix I keep in a spray bottle. I have had zero issues.

I agree with the cleaning method but I use about 1.5 to 2 gallons of water pbw mix. I lay it down with everything connected still and quarter turn it every 30 mins or so. This way I can cover the entire keg and better yet if your during the process of cleaning equipment I use the mixture to clean out my equipment as well, no sense in wasting PBW.
 
Great advice above..... I also take mine apart between every brew - it does not take much to do.

Yooper's advice in regard to keeping parts from one keg organized and separated from other kegs is worth seconding...... save you troubles down the line of poor seals, leaks, etc. of mismatched parts.

I would definitely start with a more aggressive cleaning of the kegs the first time you get them (if they are used). Replace rubber parts if they were not new when you got them. Totally disassemble, Fill the keg all the way up with hot water and PBW for a nice long soak (overnight). Same with the other parts. Make sure you have a brush for the long diptube. Rinse well . . . sanitize with starsan and you are ready to go. After this initial cleaning . . . .it should be much simpler and easier if you take good care of your kegs, rinse right away when you are done with a keg, etc.

I just clean out 6 kegs the other day filling it up with to the top with 2.5 oz per gallon of pbw and hot water. I took everthing out of each one and had them soaking in the same solution. I took the dip tubes and placed them in the 5 gal solution. Soaked for 1hr or so then auto syphoned into the next. I then took the dip tubes and turned them upside down and did it this way on each one. Took me two days cause I started late in the evening but all of them came out clean and had no soda smell to them.

Now I wish I would have kept the parts to each keg but had issues with one keg not able to screw on and the dip tube gas in was a smaller in diameter. I also remember it was plastic never seen that before.
 
Now I wish I would have kept the parts to each keg but had issues with one keg not able to screw on and the dip tube gas in was a smaller in diameter. I also remember it was plastic never seen that before.[/QUOTE]

I learned that first time filling. Threw all of the parts into a bucket. Little did I know some were different.
 
Now I wish I would have kept the parts to each keg but had issues with one keg not able to screw on and the dip tube gas in was a smaller in diameter. I also remember it was plastic never seen that before.

I learned that first time filling. Threw all of the parts into a bucket. Little did I know some were different.[/QUOTE]

I pulled this move after buying my first 7 kegs as a group. It was a PITA to get everything sorted out. Now i throw the pieces in a paint strainer bag and toss them in the reservoir of my keg washer. I just added some disconnects to the keg washer setup so i can clean everything in place.
 
completely disassemble, oxyclean/boiling water, scrub, reassemble with new orings, starsan, hook up gas and a picnic tap, run starsan through for 2 minutes, fill.

I also dedicate 1 keg specifically to dark beers, and 1 specifically to belgians/wheats/estery yeast beers.
 
Learned the post sizes were different the hard way too.

First keg, disassembled, cleaned, rebuilt. Gas in went on fine, beer out was too tight to go on. I needed that beer to come out real bad, so I used a mallet and securely placed the beer out pop off on that post and drank all the beer.

Cleaning time came and vice clamps and hammer were involved in its removal. But beer had been successfully consumed.
 
Learned the post sizes were different the hard way too.

First keg, disassembled, cleaned, rebuilt. Gas in went on fine, beer out was too tight to go on. I needed that beer to come out real bad, so I used a mallet and securely placed the beer out pop off on that post and drank all the beer.

Cleaning time came and vice clamps and hammer were involved in its removal. But beer had been successfully consumed.

Ive swapped the ball valves several times and same thing happened. YES BEER CONSUMED!
 
Learned the post sizes were different the hard way too.

My first keg experience had me wanting to break down because I couldn't figure out why the couplers didn't want to go on. I didn't make it to the hammer but I certainly had pliers and screwdrivers working. Of course, I felt like an idiot, when I pulled up a video on kegs and realized the posts were on the wrong ports... :mug:
 
You might be right but I need to learn how to clean this thing.

Yes. If you're going to keg, you have to learn how to take them apart (its' not hard) to give them a thorough cleaning when needed. Otherwise, there's no way to properly clean the inside of the dip tube (where your brew flows) or the insides of the posts.

Having one of these will make the process so much easier - http://www.sears.com/craftsman-11-16-x-7-8-in-wrench-offset-ratchet/p-00943365000P?prdNo=1&blockNo=1&blockType=G1&PDP_REDIRECT=false&s_tnt=39869:4:0

Clean one keg at a time and pay careful attention to which post is gas (with the notches) and which is liquid. To take the poppet out of a post, set it right side up on the table and use a golf tee to push the poppet out.

The more you work on these, the more comfortable you'll be taking care of them. I can't believe that your LHBS guy is telling you to not take them apart for cleaning. It sounds like yours really need it. Did he happen to sell them to you?

 
Ok I guess this would be a good place to put keg disappointment.

I just bought 3 new ball lock kegs from my uncles best friend who used to brew in the 90's. 2 of the kegs are brand new but the 3rd one has a lot of scuffs and a plastic keg lid.... Has anyone ever seen a plastic keg lid? it doesn't seem to fit right either... Should I just buy a new lid or are they ok to use??????
 
What's different than the deep socket?

The deep sockets try to go over the whole post. Oftentimes they are not deep enough. The preferred wat is the ratcheting box crescent style wrenches where its just a ring that fits over the post and ratchets. You get a better grip that way.
 
Haven't bottled anything but stout (I just drink a stout once in a while as a change-up or a treat) but the ease and cleanliness of kegs vs. washing and all those damned drippy bottles--and the possible shaking up of the yeast----maybe somebody made root beer of something was left drying out in that guy's keg (or tap or lines).

I'm wondering if the keg had possible been stored upside-down and some kind of gunk is laying there around the top-virtually invisible -but maybe "feel-able" with a fingertip.
 
Ok I guess this would be a good place to put keg disappointment.

I just bought 3 new ball lock kegs from my uncles best friend who used to brew in the 90's. 2 of the kegs are brand new but the 3rd one has a lot of scuffs and a plastic keg lid.... Has anyone ever seen a plastic keg lid? it doesn't seem to fit right either... Should I just buy a new lid or are they ok to use??????

Please post a pic of the plastic corny keg lid. I've never seen one. Will it take the same size o-ring?
 
Ok I guess this would be a good place to put keg disappointment.

I just bought 3 new ball lock kegs from my uncles best friend who used to brew in the 90's. 2 of the kegs are brand new but the 3rd one has a lot of scuffs and a plastic keg lid.... Has anyone ever seen a plastic keg lid? it doesn't seem to fit right either... Should I just buy a new lid or are they ok to use??????

Yes post picture of it would be intersting to see what it looks like. I think if it only had beer in it then keep it. Thats what Im getting with plastic parts from kegs if it has soda toss it out by replacement parts and reassemble.

Im starting to wonder if the poppets are contaminated and need replaced from the old soda kegs i have.
 

Please post a pic of the plastic corny keg lid. I've never seen one. Will it take the same size o-ring?

Yeah it uses the same o-ring...

Yes post picture of it would be intersting to see what it looks like. I think if it only had beer in it then keep it. Thats what Im getting with plastic parts from kegs if it has soda toss it out by replacement parts and reassemble.

Im starting to wonder if the poppets are contaminated and need replaced from the old soda kegs i have.

Well im not sure if it was used with soda or not.

IMG_1838.jpg


IMG_3322.jpg


IMG_5566.jpg
 
Yeah it uses the same o-ring...

Well im not sure if it was used with soda or not.

I personally don't see anything wrong with that plastic ...as long as it hold pressure you'll be fine...if you don't trust it then replace it but it would be only for peace of mind.
 
I personally don't see anything wrong with that plastic ...as long as it hold pressure you'll be fine...if you don't trust it then replace it but it would be only for peace of mind.

Ok i'll give it a try... I was just curious i've never heard of or seen one lol
 
Strange. I would think you are fine with it unless it smells really funny or has a lot of scratches to harbor little nasties.
 
Any thoughts on brand new kegs v. reconditioned? I am buying another keg anyway, and kegconnection has a sale on brand new kegs. After replacing gaskets and cleaning a reconditioned keg, etc, am I just paying about twice as much to have a shiny newer looking keg by getting the new one or is there some other real value there? thoughts?
 
Personally-if you have all new O-rings and seals--it's pretty much the difference between a used anvil and a new anvil.

Plus-just like chicks dig scars, dings and horseshoes in stainless steel equate to character.

And nobody every went wrong buying something at 50% off either!
 
Yeah, used for sure. Need new orings/seals. These kegs will have the easiest part of their lives in our brew houses. Just remember, they probably have been sitting, with a few oz of coke in them for 20 years.
 
Any thoughts on brand new kegs v. reconditioned? I am buying another keg anyway, and kegconnection has a sale on brand new kegs. After replacing gaskets and cleaning a reconditioned keg, etc, am I just paying about twice as much to have a shiny newer looking keg by getting the new one or is there some other real value there? thoughts?

When my kegs are in the keezer holding and dispensing "the precious", I don't see 'em.

Shiny matters not. Function is what counts.
 
BigFloyd said:
When my kegs are in the keezer holding and dispensing "the precious", I don't see 'em.

Shiny matters not. Function is what counts.

Yeah, mine have "property of_______syrups and vending" all over them.
 
Yall were right about that Pepsi syrup being stuck in the kegs. I just bought am additional one and the lid gasket reeked of Pepsi and so did the inside of the keg. And this keg was supposed to have been cleaned and reconditioned w all new rubber....yeah right!
 
The deep sockets try to go over the whole post. Oftentimes they are not deep enough. The preferred wat is the ratcheting box crescent style wrenches where its just a ring that fits over the post and ratchets. You get a better grip that way.

Ah ok. Haven't encountered that yet.
 
I have 9 used soda kegs that I been running for a year and a half. I have some seals starting to go bad now. I guess its time to tear down the kegs and replace seals, etc. I never had any off flavors and I clean the lines and kegs out every 3 months or so on co2. I would think an off flavor comes from the dip tube maybe old syrup or mold stuck in there.
 
Ah ok. Haven't encountered that yet.

Personally though, I just use either channel locks, vice grips, or an adjustable crescent wrench to get it started and unscrew the rest of the way by hand. At least on my kegs. Haven't hit a keg yet that was cross threaded or nasty to the point that I would think of putting WD-40 or Liquid Wrench on it.
 
Keep kegging. I have never bottled a beer to condition. And I never will fill right from the keg with a beer gun and be done. Nothernbrewer has a good video page on keg cleaning, or there is a few on youtube.
 
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Thanks, man. I think I say **** a keg. Everyone said it is less trouble. But idly has been more for me.
yup! Trouble! Junk! Cut your losses and give the damn thing away to the first guy who offers to pay shipping, so how much to ship to 03242? Ha!! i have about 9 kegs at the moment (and get more when i can) and love em, definitely take em apart and give a thorough cleaning, and a new o-ring kit is cheap!! once you get it figured out, you'll love using them! Happy Brewing!:mug:
 
I hate to waste CO2 on cleaning. I just use compressed air to charge the kegs full of cleanitizer to about 100psi, then flush it all out at high pressure. Works great, and saves CO2 for the beer. :)

I have been thinking about using a BoreSnake .308 cleaner for cleaning the inside of the tubes. Obviously a beer-dedicated one, not one covered with lead, primer, and Hoppes! ;-). Anyone tried this?
 
I have been thinking about using a BoreSnake .308 cleaner for cleaning the inside of the tubes. Obviously a beer-dedicated one, not one covered with lead, primer, and Hoppes! ;-). Anyone tried this?

I can't think of any reason that a BoreSnake wouldn't work well on the tube. Not sure if .308 or something smaller (like maybe .25 cal) might be the right size. I bought one of these and it works well - http://www.midwestsupplies.com/liquid-tube-brush.html
 
So I followed everyone's advice and cleaned the hell out of keg after taking it apart and also replaced all rubber. I sanitized and flushed w CO2 according to advice and then Kegged my original recipe "tropic thunder" (single hop IPA w citra hops). I tried the first one (and then about 10,more) last night and it was delicious and perfectly carbed and absolutely no off flavor. Thanks for the help!!!
 
If it will take about 2-4 weeks to drink the keg, how often do I have to clean beer line? And if I do not have an extra keg available, what is the best/easiest way to clean the beer line between uses (on the same keg)?
 
If it will take about 2-4 weeks to drink the keg, how often do I have to clean beer line? And if I do not have an extra keg available, what is the best/easiest way to clean the beer line between uses (on the same keg)?

Best thing to do on a single keg system is grab a garden sprayer thet you can pump up fo push cleaner through the lines. i clean after every batch blows dry. :mug: they are cheap at most home improvement stores
 
If it will take about 2-4 weeks to drink the keg, how often do I have to clean beer line? And if I do not have an extra keg available, what is the best/easiest way to clean the beer line between uses (on the same keg)?

All i do when a keg blows is to rinse out the keg get crud out the about a few Tbs of pbw amd about a qt of water in. Keg. I then swish it around give a burst of co2 and clean out line with it. Rinse keg then repeat with clean water in line. Use starsan in keg run though like and good. Sounds like alot but ots really not. Every 5 batches or 6 months i take apart tap and line and do a good cleaning. I would also recommend if you have a bad batch woth off flavors to really clean keg and line right after.
 
I do not clean the lines all that often. I have even followed a stout with a cream ale. Was kinda funny watching the last of the stout come out then turn very light. No issues. I do clean the lines out after every 2-3 kegs though. Can either use the same keg after it blows (clean both at once) since you only have the one, or make a line cleaner from a sprayer as said above.
 
I hate to waste CO2 on cleaning. I just use compressed air to charge the kegs full of cleanitizer to about 100psi

Is that safe? I thought Corny kegs were only rated to around 60 psi. Isn't some kind of failsafe valve supposed to blow after that?

Are you really pressurizing your kegs to 100 psi? Isn't that excessive?
 
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