Temperature controlling

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SmittyisLEGEND

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Can anyone help me out to find things to put together for a temperature control for my brew. Want to be able to stick my brew bucket, carboy, bottles etc in it and have no idea where to start and what I'll need to buy...
 
If you like building things, google "mother of a Fermentation chiller". This is what I have, and I love it.
 
If you want a simple chill solution, look at this - https://www.cool-brewing.com/ from Cool Brewing. They are one of the forum supporters and I won one of their fermentation coolers in the 2013 giveaway. I received it this week and haven't had a chance to try it yet - but it looks like a great low cost solution.
 
I built a fermentation chamber based on the design of the "mother of fermentation chamber" but, instead of using ice to cool, I used the cooling elements from a mini fridge. Something like that or a freezer with a temperature controller seems like the best way to me.

My Fermentation Chamber
 
I found the easiest option was a used fridge on CL and build an eBay temp controller. To keep the temp within a degree I also bought a paint can heater. Total cost was under $120 and my beer stays at the exact temp I want.
 
+1 on the freezer or fridge with an STC-1000 controller and diy paint can heater. I love mine. You can cold crash, do lagers, whatever you please.
 
+2 on a fridge and heater combo with a dual stage controller. It's not the cheapest option, but you really can't go wrong with this setup and you certainly can't beat the accuracy in temperature control you can achieve. Just set it and forget it, and rest assured that your fermenter temperature is exactly where you want it to be (although do make sure it works properly before you put your first batch into it).

I live in Phoenix where the temperature in my garage (where I keep my fermentation "chamber") can swing from the 40's (at night) to the 90's (during the day) repeatedly over the course of a three week fermentation this in the spring and fall.

I use a dual stage Ranco controller with a little Sanyo fridge (just big enough to hold a carboy or 6.5 gallon buket) and I connect the 2nd stage heating plug to a fermiwrap heater that I have taped to the inside. This setup (with the temperature probe in a thermowell within the fermenter) brings my primary temperature down from 80 (after post-boil chilling) to my typical fermerntation temperature of 68 degrees in less than 3 hours, and with a 1 degree differential programmed into the controller, it will hold that exact temp (+/- 1 degree) without any issue at any time of the year without any need to fiddle with the programming. I verified this using a cheap wireless thermometer (which I put in the "chamber" where the receiver shows the high and low temperture over the last 24 hours on day where it got as cold a 48 at night and as hot as 88 during the day in my garage. Lowest temp was 67: Highest temp was 69. Granted, during the summer when my garage gets up over 110 degrees, my fridge runs almost constantly...but this setup still maintains the temperature.

Look on craigslist for a compact fridge (widely available for $50 or less), throw in your heater (~$25)/ temperature controller (~$120), and you should be able to put together a similar setup for under $180.
 
Look on craigslist for a compact fridge (widely available for $50 or less), throw in your heater (~$25)/ temperature controller (~$120), and you should be able to put together a similar setup for under $180.

Even less if you wire up an STC-1000 dual controller to a simply 2-plug wall outlet and combine the two into a control box. I spent <$30 on the controller setup and $70 for a used upright freezer that will fit two 6.5 gallon buckets.

I cold crashed two batches from 67*F to 38*F today at lunchtime with simply the touch of a few buttons.:rockin:

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/ebay-aquarium-temp-controller-build-163849/



http://brewstands.com/fermentation-heater.html

 
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Okay thank you, do you use the fridge temperature control for the cooling or how does that work?
 
Okay thank you, do you use the fridge temperature control for the cooling or how does that work?

No sir. The STC-1000 functions as a 2-way power switch based on temperature read by a sensor. You turn the fridge thermostat all the way to cold and let the STC-1000 control when and at what temp the fridge cools.

Let's say you set it to a temperature of 17*C (62.6*F) with a tolerance of +/-0.5*C. When the temperature rises to 17.5*C, the controller powers the "cool" plug that you have the fridge plugged into and keeps it on until the temp drops back down to 17*C at which time it turns that plug off. It does the same for the heat source (which you put inside the fridge) via the "heat" plug if the temp drops to 16.5*C.

That way it keeps the temp precisely within the range that you set it to. It's a beautiful thing.;)
 
Okay that makes sense, I've been doing research but you just answered all my questions right there. That's my project for the weekend:)
 
Okay that makes sense, I've been doing research but you just answered all my questions right there. That's my project for the weekend:)

If you run into any problems, feel free to shoot me a PM.

I've built two of the STC-1000 controllers and both work great!
 
Okay thanks a lot! I'm debating on building an insulated box that would hold a carboy in it.. What would you recommend to cool it with if I went this route?
 
BigFloyd, that's pretty slick setup, and cheap too. Me likey. Do you have to manually switch between heating and cooling modes with this setup, or can you set it up so that the controller provides power to whichever connected device (fridge or heater) it needs to to maintain the set point temperature ....even if the ambient outdoor temp swings from one side of your set point to the other?
 
BigFloyd, that's pretty slick setup, and cheap too. Me likey. Do you have to manually switch between heating and cooling modes with this setup, or can you set it up so that the controller provides power to whichever connected device (fridge or heater) it needs to to maintain the set point temperature ....even if the ambient outdoor temp swings from one side of your set point to the other?

You set the temp and the tolerance range (mine is +/- 0.5*C) and the controller takes care of the rest. Both devices are plugged into the 2-plug wall outlet on the control box. One plug is for cool, the other for heat.

Yesterday, I wanted to cold crash two batches in my freezer (chocolate stout and amber ale). They had been held at 64.5*C to ferment and then I let both finished up a couple of days at 68*F. To cold crash, I simply set the controller to 3.5*C (about 38*F) and walked away. Once it got to that temp, it turned off power to the freezer, but it will come back on as needed to hold it there.

It's by far the best $100 I've spent on brew gear.
 
You guys are convincing me to convert a small chest style freezer I have to a fermenting chamber. I get the temperature controller part but what I have a hard time picturing is how you hang the thermocouple in the Carboy or plastic barrel while keeping it sealed. Can someone show me the thermocouple + stopper used? Thanks!
 
You guys are convincing me to convert a small chest style freezer I have to a fermenting chamber. I get the temperature controller part but what I have a hard time picturing is how you hang the thermocouple in the Carboy or plastic barrel while keeping it sealed. Can someone show me the thermocouple + stopper used? Thanks!

The STC-1000 comes with a temperature sensor. You run the wire through the door of the freezer and tape it to the side of the fermenter. I place a double layer of bubble wrap over that to insulate it from the air.
 
And do you feel that accurately represents the temperature of the beer? Or do you set the temperature controller a degree or 2 lower than your target temperature for the yeast because it is probably warmer inside the bottle than on the side?
 
Being insulated, it is probably pretty accurate. If you were really worried, you could subtract a degree. However, as important as temperature control is, the yeast do have a RANGE of appropriate temps. I doubt if you were 1* higher than your set temp you would even notice.

Smallest range I have seen is at least 6-8*, so if you set it a degree above the bottom of that range, I doubt you would even notice it.

If the range is 54-60, set to 55. Even if it gets to 57, you have still stayed in the bottom half of the range for the entire fermentation.
 
And do you feel that accurately represents the temperature of the beer? Or do you set the temperature controller a degree or 2 lower than your target temperature for the yeast because it is probably warmer inside the bottle than on the side?

Well, I've measured a +7*F difference between the sensor on the side of the fermenter and the air in the freezer during active fermentation, so I do believe that it gives an accurate reading of what's going on inside the bucket even if deep inside it may possibly be a degree or so warmer.
 
I am now bidding for a chest freezer for $3.00 on eBay.. It doesn't freeze.. But it cools.. Perfect for brewing I'd say.. I'll rig up a reptile heat mat inside and wire up a STC -1000 eventually.. Will keep you posted!!
 
If Im useing a chest freezer for a ferm chamber and the STC-1000 , shouldnt I be able to hook up the compressor to the STC for cooling?

No need.

Just plug the freezer into the "cool" outlet on your controller box. It's very simple.
 
BigFloyd said:
Looks like the STC-1000, although not quite as fancy, does the same thing for about 1/3rd the cost.

Yeah still sold on the STC though.. If this chest freezer I'm bidding on eBay doesn't cool enough.. I have an idea of a water cooled PC radiator unit with twin PC fans attached to PVC tubing inside the chamber.. A reptile heating pad for the heat.. Sounds fiddly though.. Could work.. Need to wire up a STC though.. Oh big plans... This is fun!!
 
Hey just tried hooking up my stc 1000 just like how you sent the link, all is working well but when we went to te cooling part it just flashed and got no juice to that outlet. The heating outlet worked when it was supposed to and shut off when it was done heating.. Any help is appreciated
 
Hey just tried hooking up my stc 1000 just like how you sent the link, all is working well but when we went to te cooling part it just flashed and got no juice to that outlet. The heating outlet worked when it was supposed to and shut off when it was done heating.. Any help is appreciated

Don't worry. That's normal. It flashes after switching to cool mode to let you know that it's in "compressor protection" mode. It's so that it doesn't cycle the compressor too frequently and maybe damage it.

Leave it alone for a little while. The light will change to steady and the power to the freezer will activate.
 
Bigfloyd you're a life saver, that is probably one of the sweetest setup a for temperature control and I'm glad to say it was a total success! Thank you:)
 
image-2778058963.jpg

Freshly put together stc1000, next in line is to buy a chest freezer and kegs! Keep you posted
 
Freshly put together stc1000, next in line is to buy a chest freezer and kegs! Keep you posted

Congratulations. You did a nice job on that project box. That's much cleaner that the first one I made out of an old computer speaker casing.

With the ability to precisely control your fermentation temps, you are going to be so much happier with your brewing experience and the final product.
 
That's why I'm hoping for! Now tonight I think I'm going to tackle that paint can heater project. Does it seem to work fairly well for you?
 
That's why I'm hoping for! Now tonight I think I'm going to tackle that paint can heater project. Does it seem to work fairly well for you?

It really does a great job and it's so simple. When you build that heater, pay extra careful attention to insulating any metal parts (like the lid) that are near your wire connections.
 
Front view

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From above

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Finally built my keezer and got my temperature controller and my paint can heater to some good use!
 
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