Cabinet "Keezer" with built in glycol chiller

Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum

Help Support Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

rlefevre

Active Member
Joined
Apr 14, 2012
Messages
30
Reaction score
1
Location
Lexington
EDIT: Here is a pic of the semi-finished project. Read on to hear the build story.



This is my first DIY project post on here, so go easy on me. I wanted to build an upgrade to my mini fridge kegerator. I spent a lot of time looking around on here at all of the very nice keezer designs, but none of them seemed quite right for me.

I have a pretty limited space to ferment and serve beer, so I was looking for a sort of all in one device that could both control fermentation temps and serve beer. Most of the keezer designs can only do one or the other, and I simply do not have space for 2 keezers. I also just wanted to do something a bit different, even if it meant more work.

I have always liked the idea of using glycol chillers to control all of my temperatures. Commercial chillers are pretty expensive, so I decided to make my own using a small air conditioner. The smallest air conditioner I could find was 5,000 btu's. That is many times more powerful than even the largest of freezers, so this should be able to provide cooling power for any future projects I may have.

Once I decided on using a DIY glycol chiller, the easiest solution to house the kegs for me was to convert a cabinet. I found a 36inch wide unstained cabinet at home depot on sale for <$70.



I only need space for 2 kegs, as I usually never have more than 1 beer on tap and 1 carbonating/conditioning. This left me plenty of space in the cabinet for the chiller and some storage. I used 2 layers of 3/4in XPS for the insulation and basically created a 10inch x 20inch space to comfortably fit 2 kegs. Here is a pic of dry fitting the first insulation pieces.



To preserve vertical space, I installed the bottom insulation under the floor of the cabinet. Here is a pic of the first layer installed with glue for the 2nd layer.



I then took a piece of 1/2 inch OSB and attached 6x casters on blocks to space them so the cabinet would sit roughly 1/4inch off the ground so it can roll but the casters are not visible. These casters can support 80 pounds each, so in total I could load this up with ~480 pounds.



Next is a pic with the rest of the insulation box walls installed and taped drying in place. You can also see that I applied the first coat of stain. Turned out redder than expected. Might have to get some different stain.



Here is a pic of the air conditioner I plan to use. Sorry I did not get a pic before disassembling it, but I wanted to make sure this one would work. All I have done at this point is remove the outer case and the cooling fan.



Most of the DIY glycol chillers I have seen use a small cooler for the reservoir. This seemed a bit clunky to me as all the coolers I could find have pretty thick walls, handles, etc. I plan to use this storage container to hold my chilled liquid. Obviously I will be insulating it.



Next I notched in the foam so a lid could rest inside flush with the top.



And lastly for tonight, here is a pic of the air conditioner sitting in the cabinet for size reference.



Stay tuned for more updates.
 
To add some durability, waterproofing, and better looks, I decided to line the insulated chamber with aluminum flashing. Here is a pic of all the pieces I cut to cover the panels.



And here is a pic of them installed with some hvac aluminum tape to seal it all up.



Here is a pic of the progress on the glycol chiller. I was able to fit the storage container around the coil without moving the coil at all. I wanted to do this to avoid kinking any of the coils. I then added insulation around it after it was installed. Not looking very pretty right now, but should improve. I hate spray foam, definitely going to have to do some trimming.

 
Whew! CO2 tank barely fit in. Had to carve out the insulation just a bit.



View with shelf installed.
 
Here is the heat exchanger I will be using to cool the kegs. It is a transmission cooler.



It is installed with zip-tie like things that came with it.



 
Kegs fit with room to spare.



And here is an overall shot of the current state. Note I got some darker stain on it. I like the color much better now.

 
Ran a first test of the chiller yesterday. Added 2 gallons of ~70 degree water and turned the air conditioner on. It cooled the water to 40F with ice forming on the coils in about 15 minutes. Before much ice formed, I turned the air conditioner off and closed the lid. I then left it for 18 hours then rechecked the temperature, and it had only risen to 59F.

Doing some basic calculations, 2 gallons of water heating up ~20 degrees takes about 330btu's or about 18.5btu's per hour over 18 hours. Assuming an average temperature of 50F with a room temperature of 70F (20 degree differential), that gives me an "R value" for the entire cooler insulation of just over 1. Pretty good considering there is about 6 square feet over the cooler, so my R value per square foot is about 6. This makes sense because the foam insulation has an R value of 4, but then there is the plastic container, an air gap, and some spray foam also.

I know those calculations made some assumptions, but they should be correct within an order of magnitude or so. Given the calculated R value for the entire cooler of 1, that means for every degree of differential, 1 btu/hr will be lost. If I keep the cooler at 20F, it will lose about 50 btu/hr. I can live with that, and I might fill in some more insulation to make it even better.
 
Got some new toys in the mail. Some silicone tubing from brewershardware.com and some pumps and temp controllers.



 
And we are operational! I used some plastic electrical boxes from HD to assemble. The top temp controller turns on the air conditioner and a pump that just recirculates the fluid while the AC is on to prevent freezing on the coils.

The second temp controller is just controlling the pump to the heat exchanger for now. Once I pick up a small computer fan to blow on the heat exchanger, it will also control that.

The third spot is for when I add another temp controller for fermentation control.

 
Fascinating build. Very innovative. :rockin: What do you expect the energy bill for this "keezer" to be?
 
Fascinating build. Very innovative. :rockin: What do you expect the energy bill for this "keezer" to be?

While I don't have numbers to back it up, I don't imagine that it will be significantly different than a conventional keezer to operate. While I know I am losing some efficiency by cooling liquid then using that liquid to cool the beer, I should be gaining some of that back in the insulation. I am using 1.5inches of XPS (r value = 8) plus whatever the 3/4 inch wood of the cabinet gets me. When I took apart my old mini fridge to make my kegerator, I noticed the walls were only about 1 inch thick after I took the plastic liner out. That includes some amount of what looked like cheap styrofoam insulation, along with the hot coils the fridge used to dissipate heat. Hopefully my added insulation will balance out the efficiency lost elsewhere.
 
I'm impressed to say the least. How much room do you have above the A/C unit to put a bucket or carboy?
 
I'm impressed to say the least. How much room do you have above the A/C unit to put a bucket or carboy?

There is about 13 inches on the shelf above the A/C. I plan to store my brew pot there (morebeer heavy duty 8 gallon pot that is 12 inches tall). SWMBO will allow the fermenter to sit outside the cabinet during the fermentation process (I only brew maybe once a month so I don't always have something fermenting).
 
Selected the tile for the top. It is just a basic glass tile from home depot, but I had a gift card and it looks nice enough.



I also picked up some more red oak to form the frame around the tile.



I had some thinset left over from another project, but I elected to use this new (to me) product because the idea of cleaning the excess thinset from in between these hundreds of tiny tiles did not excite me. Basically this stuff is like sheets of double stick tape that uses an adhesive designed to permanently bond tiles. Positioning was a little tricky because this stuff is very sticky, but it worked well and does not require any drying time.



Getting some tiles in place:



And now, the current state of my "keezer"

 
Progress today. Tough to see from the picture, but grout is in place. I also completed the wood framing on one side and put the first coat of stain on. Note that I left out a 4x4 area in each of the corners for some accent tiles I plan to add.

 
Time for an update. Got all the tiles installed and grouted. I used to live in New Mexico so I got the accent tiles there to add some character.



Close up of some swag I got from the Left Hand brewery in colorado.



I also made the hinge for the left side of the bar top. The right side easily lifts off to allow the left side to open.


 
The other major change I made was to the glycol chiller. SWMBO did not like the amount of noise it was making. This noise comes from two sources so I tackled them individually...

1. The fan for the A/C is very noisy. When I got to thinking about it, the fan used is designed to sit outside the window exposed to all the elements. It is designed to work in extreme heat or rainfall etc. The fan is designed to not jam when a leaf or twig falls into the blades. None of that strikes me as quiet or efficient. In fact, when I put my hand behind the unit, I was surprised how little air this fan actually put out. So I took it out and threw it away. In its place I installed 4x 120mm computer cooling fans. They put out maybe a little less air, but similar. They are also almost silent.

2. The other big noise maker is the vibration from the compressor. By the time I added all my insulation, the compressor was not able to vibrate on its rubber mounts as it was designed, so it was vibrating the entire cabinet turning it into a large speaker. As I started to trim the foam out to allow it to vibrate, I realized that there was a bunch of junk in the A/C case that I simply didn't need, especially since I took the fan out. I decided to completely strip all the compressor and coolant system out of the case. I eliminated all the switches temp sensor and hardwired the compressor and its capacitor to the plug, so as soon as it is plugged in it turns on. I kept the rubber mounts on the compressor and also set it on a piece of vibration dampening foam.

To do all that, I had to destroy the custom glycol reservoir I had made. I did not feel like building another so I just went the classic route and modified a drink cooler.

Now the fans are basically silent and the compressor makes about the same noise as a mini fridge, which all adds up to SWMBO is very happy. :mug:
 
Back
Top