Keg Priming questions

[hubbs]

I recently got into brewing, and fortunately decided to keg from the outset, never have bottled a beer - dont really plan on it any time soon. I have previously force carbed all of my previous batches, but I have been meaning to give keg priming a try.

I normally find the pipeline has slowed down sufficiently that I want the near immediate availability of a force carbed keg, and decide to prime the next batch.

Anyhow, I recently built a spundung valve with 3 inputs, and coincidently I have 15 gallons of an English prime that is about ready to keg, the plan is to naturally carb these kegs.

How important is temperature control during carbonation? I plan on storing the kegs in my game room, which probably sits at high 70s to low 80s. I know I can look up the volume of CO2 for the style and then get the pressure required for the given temperature. I also know I can calculate the amount of sugar or DME to use, but I also know I can use extra to boost the ABVs a little and the spundung will keep the carbonation in check.

Is 82ish degF going to be too warm for an English mild fermented in the low 60s? I would rather not take up the space in my fermentation fridge.

What about lagers? I have read that you might need to add some extra yeast after the layering phase, again, is temperature an issue?

I have always cold crashed my primaries in my 31degF keezer for a day or two, before racking into the keg. Will this cause too much yeast to drop out of suspension and go dormant to naturally carb? What about harvesting the yeast from a conical?

Wow, long post

 

[hubbs]

Anyone?

 

[day_trippr]

Well, you kind of buried a bunch of disparate issues in there, might have scared folks away

You can carb at any temperature; while it takes higher pressure with higher temperature to get the beer to absorb the gas, the volume of CO2 to reach the desired carb level doesn't change. Sans the whole spunding valve/higher ABV variables, you'd just use one of the many calculators to come up with a priming charge, make sure the keg will hold a seal, and go for it. Just make sure you bring the beer down to serving temperature well before tapping so the CO2 trapped in the head space has time to be absorbed (same as bottling).

Now, add in the spunding valve, the desire to use extra primer to drive up the ABV, and do this at relatively warm temperature, and things get way more complicated. I'm not experienced in such techniques, so I will leave that one to others...

Cheers!