Brew pot size

[rgarry]

I do 5 gallon batches. I have a 5,8 and 20 gal pots. The 20 gallon doesn't have a drain and thus a pia to work with but it never boils over. Was thinking about investing in a good 10 gal like a boilmaker vs putting drainage valve on 20 gal. What size pots do you guys use and what do you wish you had.

 

[kapbrew13]

Use a 10 , wish for a 20 now.

 

[Mirkin]

Use a 10 , wish for a 20 now.

Totally.

It might be more expensive, but if you're buying a really high quality pot get it big, only cry once that way. It's a consideration that is creating a 2 year delay in pimping out and completing my electric brewery, but I know once I replace my trashy 50L keggles with Blichmann's 20Gal pots I'm set for life... Homebrewing that is.

 

[kapbrew13]

Totally.

It might be more expensive, but if you're buying a really high quality pot get it big, only cry once that way. It's a consideration that is creating a 2 year delay in pimping out and completing my electric brewery, but I know once I replace my trashy 50L keggles with Blichmann's 20Gal pots I'm set for life... Homebrewing that is.

Yup. Have rebought too many things because existing being too small or low quality.
Never!! Always new toys to buy.

 

[rgarry]

I think you guys have sold me on the 10 gal. Does the standard blichmann come with the valve and do you guys recommend any accessories ( hop blocker)

 

[SpikeBrewing]

Put a valve on the 20gal for ~$30 and put the $300 you save towards something else

 

[rgarry]

I read a bunch of post on it but worried that I will screw up a good pot. I will stop by the local welding shop to see if anyone wants to do it for me.

 

[SpikeBrewing]

Is the pot stainless or aluminum? I don't trust welding shops. We've heard of too many hack jobs that ruin a perfectly good kettle

 

[rgarry]

Stainless

 

[SpikeBrewing]

It's a tough material to work with but in my opinion not worth spending $300 when you already have a nice 20gal

 

[Shuasha]

Maybe I'm missing something, but I don't really see the point of the valve on a brew kettle.

Here's the line of reasoning:

When you boil, the trub lands in the bottom. Also, if you use whirlfloc, the proteins are down there and will move easily with the current.

If you use the valve, it will just suck all of that out from near the valve. If you just use a transfer hose, you can control what you get or don't get from the pot.

I have a valve on my 15 gal brew kettle, but I stopped using it for these reasons. Am I off base?

 

[Travestian]

Maybe I'm missing something, but I don't really see the point of the valve on a brew kettle.

Depending on how large a kettle you own picking it up and pouring it might not be an option due to weight. Racking is another possibility I suppose but you're looking at quite a long time to rack 15 gallons of wort. More time for infection and more equipment to have to use.

 

[Mirkin]

Maybe I'm missing something, but I don't really see the point of the valve on a brew kettle.

Here's the line of reasoning: ....

I have a valve on my 15 gal brew kettle, but I stopped using it for these reasons. Am I off base?

Yeah that's true, but if you whirlpool and use a pickup tube angled towards the wall more you don't get much trub. Alternatively a false bottom or hop blocker.
Siphoning adds more risks to the system, infection, or if you use a countrtflow or plate chiller siphoning hot liquid can be hazardous.

 

[ACarver]

Just picked this up and love it. Nice 10 gal with a spigot.

http://www.overstock.com/Home-Garden/Bayou-Classic-Stainless-Steel-10-Gallon-Spigot-Pot/6660146/product.html?cid=202290&kid=9553000357392&track=pspla&ef_id=UO7K@QAASBcwQSMw:20130410150821:s

 

[Shuasha]

Depending on how large a kettle you own picking it up and pouring it might not be an option due to weight. Racking is another possibility I suppose but you're looking at quite a long time to rack 15 gallons of wort. More time for infection and more equipment to have to use.

Yeah that's true, but if you whirlpool and use a pickup tube angled towards the wall more you don't get much trub. Alternatively a false bottom or hop blocker.
Siphoning adds more risks to the system, infection, or if you use a countrtflow or plate chiller siphoning hot liquid can be hazardous.

Pouring is obviously not an option. I meant to use a racking tube. I have some 1/2" that makes a quick job of it. It's about the same as using the spigot since that uses another hose as well.

 

[rgarry]

I have never done the whirlpool method. Screwed it up once and gave up. I use the paint strainer. I can transfer with a siphon, just need to pick up the proper heat resistant tubing. I don't like to cool in the pot because it is so wide, 1/2 the wort chiller is out of the water. The idea with the valve was to put a bazooka tube on it and then I would get most of the trub out and transfer with very little effort. Obviously, there are a million ways to do this and I appreciate everyones rec.

 

[jflongo]

You need to think about what your MAX boiling size will be in the future. I always shoot for 1 - 2 gallons over the size of my max boiling size. For example, I have a 7.5 gallon, so I make sure I boil 6.5 gallons or less in it. If I want to start doing 12 gallon boils, then I would get a 15 gallon pot. If I wanted to do 15 - 17 gallon boils, then a 20 gallon pot. Etc.

 

[b-boy]

Just my 2-cents.

For me, for a 5-gallon batch, a 10-gallon pot is the perfect size. I have a 15-gallon pot, and it's just a little too big. I use it mostly for heating my water. It is nice to have the extra capacity in case I want to do a bigger boil, but so far I haven't needed it. I use my 10-gallon for most boils.

I use Aluminum because it's cheap. I can get a nice heavy 10-gallon pot for about $40 shipped. I use weldless fittings. I can easily swap them out as needed. I was able to install everything with a hole saw.

I've got sightglasses, thermowells, thermometers, and 2 spigots per pot (with pickup tubes) so I can whirlpool. I can't imagine going back to brewing without the sightglasses and spigots.

 

[jflongo]

Maybe I'm missing something, but I don't really see the point of the valve on a brew kettle.

Here's the line of reasoning:

When you boil, the trub lands in the bottom. Also, if you use whirlfloc, the proteins are down there and will move easily with the current.

If you use the valve, it will just suck all of that out from near the valve. If you just use a transfer hose, you can control what you get or don't get from the pot.

I have a valve on my 15 gal brew kettle, but I stopped using it for these reasons. Am I off base?

Screw in a bazooka filter on the inside to help filter it.