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Heine81

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So I brewed an Oatmeal stout at 1.065. Just where I wanted it, but I must have mashed way to high (have since bought a new thermometer).

I've repitched twice now (with 1.5 liter starters), and it's still stuck at 1.028. It should finish almost half that. I brewed it about 6 weeks ago.

So I've removed 2.5 gallons (out of 6), and i've added 3 beano tablets. I'm trying to thin out part of the beer, and blend back with a poorly attenuated portion, and a way to dry portion.

I plan to inactivate the enzymes by boiling. My question is: how long do I wait until i inactivate the enzyme, cool the beer down, and blend back in?

Thanks in advance,

(PS, the handle name is a nick name, not a love for Heineken).
 
Type % of total Lbs used oz
Pale Malt (2 Row) US 3 0
Maris Otter 5 0
Caramel/Crystal Malt - 60L 3 4
Roasted Barley 2 8
Oats, Flaked 1 8
Black (Patent) Malt 0 8
Dehusked black patent 0 8

s04

mash temp is the unknown.
 
Just looking for how long the activity takes. How long would a few pills take to lower the gravity from 1.028 to 1.001.

I thought about amylase, but this seemed to be easier. Amylase in the secondary seemed to be an unknown to me and too much risk for bottle bombs.
 
150 will do. Papers say 140, but i'll do 160 for a shorter time for better activation.
 
Just looking for how long the activity takes. How long would a few pills take to lower the gravity from 1.028 to 1.001.

I thought about amylase, but this seemed to be easier. Amylase in the secondary seemed to be an unknown to me and too much risk for bottle bombs.

I haven't seen it in pills, just granular form. The recipe i saw used a a teaspoon of the enzyme and gave it another 1.1% abv, dropping it to 1.000 although the starting was 1.030.
 
Yeah, that's what i was worried about. I just need to drop it part way down since its an oatmeal stout.

It's OK now, but at 1.028 it's a tad sweet for me. I'm about to inactivate the enzyme, and reblend once it's down to temp. I'll post an update here in a few days to see if i'm fermenting and what the new FG is.


Thanks for the help
 
I thought about getting a more agressive strain, but i wanted to keep the profile of the beer as close to what i was aiming for.

I figured thinning out a portion of it, and then blending it back in would do the trick. That and i'm cheap - wanted to avoid buying a 3rd packet of yeast and a 3rd starter.
 
I'm talking about amylase here but I think beano make work thesame way, amylase is an enzyme and get used up during conversion reaction so if you want precise fg add very small (can't tell u how much now but there are threads here and BN had this topic covered) and measured amount of enzyme and wait few days, measure fg and repeat with more or less enzyme based on FG change
 
I thought about getting a more agressive strain, but i wanted to keep the profile of the beer as close to what i was aiming for.

I figured thinning out a portion of it, and then blending it back in would do the trick. That and i'm cheap - wanted to avoid buying a 3rd packet of yeast and a 3rd starter.

beano and reheating will take your beer somewhere other than where you intended. i claim that amylase is a bad idea for the crafting of beer.
 
thanks passed down. i added Beano last night for a few hours, inactivated them at 155, and then cooled and blended.

I'll report back what happens in a few days to see if it worked.

Thanks for your thread post. AE will be my next test to see if I can save this one.
 
I used Beano last year for a belgian quad that would not drop no matter what. The yeast just pooped out. Mine was stuck at around 1.030. It should have been below 1.010 and even drier. This was a pretty big beer and ended up at 11.3% ABV. This is what I did. I added 2 crushed Beano tablets(5 gal batch,) kept track of fermentation from there. Once gravity fell to 1.006 I stopped it by siphoning out of fementer and back into sanitized keggle. I heated it up to 150*F for 15-20 min which was about 5-10*F above where the enzime becomes inactive. Then cooled it down and added fresh yeast and bottled. No issues and the beer tastes awesome expecially after 16 months later.

beerloaf
 
thanks passed down. i added Beano last night for a few hours, inactivated them at 155, and then cooled and blended.

I'll report back what happens in a few days to see if it worked.

Thanks for your thread post. AE will be my next test to see if I can save this one.

I used Beano last year for a belgian quad that would not drop no matter what. The yeast just pooped out. Mine was stuck at around 1.030. It should have been below 1.010 and even drier. This was a pretty big beer and ended up at 11.3% ABV. This is what I did. I added 2 crushed Beano tablets(5 gal batch,) kept track of fermentation from there. Once gravity fell to 1.006 I stopped it by siphoning out of fementer and back into sanitized keggle. I heated it up to 150*F for 15-20 min which was about 5-10*F above where the enzime becomes inactive. Then cooled it down and added fresh yeast and bottled. No issues and the beer tastes awesome expecially after 16 months later.

beerloaf

Very cool guys.

Heine, I look forward to hearing how this works for you. Good luck.
 
I used Beano last year for a belgian quad that would not drop no matter what. The yeast just pooped out. Mine was stuck at around 1.030. It should have been below 1.010 and even drier. This was a pretty big beer and ended up at 11.3% ABV. This is what I did. I added 2 crushed Beano tablets(5 gal batch,) kept track of fermentation from there. Once gravity fell to 1.006 I stopped it by siphoning out of fementer and back into sanitized keggle. I heated it up to 150*F for 15-20 min which was about 5-10*F above where the enzime becomes inactive. Then cooled it down and added fresh yeast and bottled. No issues and the beer tastes awesome expecially after 16 months later.

beerloaf

Will keep everyone updated.

I basically followed this same practice Beerloaf. With a little modifications. Here's keeping my fingers crossed.
 
[I merged 2 identical threads here]

I've experimented with amylase enzymes. They will get the job done. You can check out my experience here: https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f163/escape-stuck-fermentation-mountain-ae-rescue-212926/

Beano is much more aggressive. I think you should avoid that. Even the AE are tricky and might end up ruining the beer, but you probably need to do something.

Thanks for sharing. I've been trying to read up and get as much info on AE lately. Not out of necessity for a brew but out of curiosity. Im reading more and more into starch conversion and the whole mashing process.
 
Update 1:

Recap. Original was 1.028 - removed 3 (out of 6) gallons, added Beano to the separated beer. (5 tablets). Let Sit for 3-4 hours. Brought up to 160 deg, cooled and replended back with original beer. (re-aerated during racking process).

6 days later, gravity has improved, albeit slightly to 1.024. I'll take another reading in a few days to see if it's stabilized. If it has, i'll repeat the process for a longer residence time with the enzyme before deactivating.

On a side note, my new digital thermometer to measure mash temp works like a charm.
 
Update 1:

Recap. Original was 1.028 - removed 3 (out of 6) gallons, added Beano to the separated beer. (5 tablets). Let Sit for 3-4 hours. Brought up to 160 deg, cooled and replended back with original beer. (re-aerated during racking process).

6 days later, gravity has improved, albeit slightly to 1.024. I'll take another reading in a few days to see if it's stabilized. If it has, i'll repeat the process for a longer residence time with the enzyme before deactivating.

On a side note, my new digital thermometer to measure mash temp works like a charm.

i wonder if it would have dropped that tiny amount in 6 days without the beano. i'd love to taste this beer when it's all said and done. the heating, blending and re-blending can't be best practice for making a good beer.
 
I agree eastoak on not being best practices. The Hydro sample from yesterday was fine, and a tiny bit of sweetness had been removed.

And it has been repitched a few times with no hydro changes (I brewed this originally in mid april). I'm confident that the changes that were observed were from the beano.
 
Type % of total Lbs used oz
Pale Malt (2 Row) US 3 0
Maris Otter 5 0
Caramel/Crystal Malt - 60L 3 4
Roasted Barley 2 8
Oats, Flaked 1 8
Black (Patent) Malt 0 8
Dehusked black patent 0 8

s04

mash temp is the unknown.

Am I reading this right?

3 lb 2 row
5 lb maris otter
3-1/4 lb of C60
2-1/2 lb of Roasted Barley
1-1/2 lb Oats
1/2 lb Black patent
1/2 lb Dehusked Black Patent

That's why your FG is so high. You have over 50% adjuncts. I'd hate to imagine what it tastes like.
 
Am I reading this right?

3 lb 2 row
5 lb maris otter
3-1/4 lb of C60
2-1/2 lb of Roasted Barley
1-1/2 lb Oats
1/2 lb Black patent
1/2 lb Dehusked Black Patent

That's why your FG is so high. You have over 50% adjuncts. I'd hate to imagine what it tastes like.

wow, i didn't look closely at that grain bill, you might be right there. if beano gets through that it will be an interesting beer.
 
Yeah, it looks a little adjunct heavy, but that last one that followed nearly the same malt bill ended at 1.014
 
Being coy - yes a lot.

Well - this was one of the first all grain beers I had brewed. The only thing that I've kept very careful track of since the beginning was OG and FS. Last Oatmeal stout was 1.065 and 1.012. I don't know why I moved up the adjucts so much.
 
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