Chugger pump troubleshooting

[swanwick]

Been working on a RIMS tube addition to my 10gallon gravity system. Purchased a chugger pump to drive the liquid through the tube during mash re-circ and also to hit fly-sparge temp. Using all 1/2" quick disconnect fittings and hoses. Have the inline pump (1/2" connections). Inlet on left, outlet on right

Just got it all set-up yesterday and ready to start troubleshooting all the electrical circuitry. First step: see if the pump pumps properly......FAIL.

It seemed to surge the water I had in the mash tun cooler for a fraction of a second, but then it stopped and did not push any liquid through. The pump was lower than the mash-tun and there was water in hoses both sides of the pump. There was no screeching as I understand takes place without liquid prime.

I should note that I have my pump head installed to the pump with a toolbox wall in between. However, it does seem that the impeller is spinning. When I shut the pump down, I can hear the impeller....click, click, click right before it stops when it is slow enough to hear the blades flicking. When it is running, it is definitely cranking.

I unhooked all the quick disconnects (thought maybe the big elbow I had on the mashtun outlet was slowing down the pump inlet too much). I also stopped pushing the water through the RIMS tube to just isolate the pump. So, was going mashtun straight hose into the pump and then straight out of the pump through a hose into a bucket. Bucket was lower than mashtun so if I dropped the outlet hose to bottom of bucket, liquid would run through the pump via gravity. When I lifted the hose to top of bucket it stopped.

I ran the pump again with the end of the hose near the top of the bucket and still nothing came out. The only thing I can think of is that there is air in the pump which cannot escape and it is cavitating. I tried tipping the pump in all directions before one test to see if I could get air bubbles to release, but that didn't seem to do anything.

Thoughts? Appreciate the help.

 

[Bobby_M]

Take the hose off of the output, keep the output valve closed, open the vessel valve and then crack open the pump output valve just a touch to purge the air out. Now you can connect the output hose and try running the pump. I can't imagine the thickness of the toolbox wall is enough to offset the magnet enough to cause a problem but if you've removed the plastic housing from the pump motor, you have to make sure that the cup magnet is centered in the plastic housing. Many people don't realize that the screw holes have enough play such that the cup magnet itself can interfere with the plastic housing or the bump out on the head itself if you don't center things.

 

[jm43654]

I had problems with my pumps as well. First, put the inlet to the bottom and the output to the top. Put a T on the output side with a valve, so you can prime the pump. It really made a huge difference. I do have to add, I sure like the stainless chugger heads better than the march heads. My march heads are wearing out after only 5 batches. Replaced one with a chugger head and now going to replace the other

 

[swanwick]

Thanks Bobby. My planned design is pump -> RIMS tube -> ball valve -> next vessel. I had read on here somewhere that it was better to put the ball valve after the heater. I think it was to make sure you never run the heating element without fluid in the tube.

For what you are describing, I would need the ball valve on the pump outlet. Is that necessary or will your technique also work with the ball valve on the outlet of the tube? My RIMS tube has the inlet and outlet facing up. I do actually have an extra 1/2" ball valve so I suppose I could place one for priming and then leave it open after that. Means another CamF or a nipple.

 

[swanwick]

jm43654, Thx so much for the feedback. I would have to put the toolbox that the pump is embedded into on the edge of a table or hang it in the air in order to allow the inlet to come in from below. That would also be a pretty big turn in the hose as it will be coming from above. My understanding is that one wants the inlet as unrestricted as possible.

But, it is definitely an option that I will try in the course of getting this thing to work. So frustrating that I won't be home again for 2 more weeks to give it another try.

 

[Bobby_M]

I would NEVER EVER.... wait... NEVER put a valve after a RIMS heater. If you have a temp control malfuction, you create a steam pressure pipe bomb.

 

[jm43654]

I was referring to a valve after the pump for priming

 

[stlbeer]

I would NEVER EVER.... wait... NEVER put a valve after a RIMS heater. If you have a temp control malfuction, you create a steam pressure pipe bomb.

Ditto - I've had boiling in my RIMS tube once when the mash stuck. You want to make sure one end of the RIMS tube is always open so pressure doesn't build up.

 

[swanwick]

I would NEVER EVER.... wait... NEVER put a valve after a RIMS heater. If you have a temp control malfuction, you create a steam pressure pipe bomb.

Hmm, that sounds like some pretty blatant common sense. Amazing how trying to optimize for something else can make you oblivious to what's important.

I have been joking around with friends about the fact that the giant tube attached to the back of a toolbox with a digital readout on top looks like some sort of pipe bomb. Would have really sucked if it came true.

Thanks once again for setting me on the right path guys.