Beer kit instructions confusing: Ace of Spades Black IPA

[pc_trott]

I want to brew a batch of AoS Black IPA for my son's college graduation party in June. He loves IPAs, so I want it to be at it's prime. I'm trying to figure out when to start it. The instructions that came with the extract kit are not very helpful. At the very beginning, second paragraph, they state that you need two weeks in the primary, two to four in the secondary fermenter. So that's four to six weeks. Then, under the heading "Before You Begin," they say, "if you don't have a secondary fermenter, skip the secondary fermenting and add an additional week to primary fermenting." Unless I flunked math, that's two to three weeks. Then, under the heading "Procedure," step 16, they say that primary fermentation will be done in one to two weeks, at which time (step 18) you move it to the secondary for two to four weeks, for a possible total of three to five weeks.

Has anyone made this kit who can give me a better idea of when I should start it to have it at it's best on June 15th? This will be my third brew, so I can't say I'm very experienced. The first one was an Amber Ale, and I tried a bottle just a few days ago at one week old. Very good! The second is a Hefeweizen, and it's still percolating.

Thanks for any help!

 

[Jag75]

Dont do secondaries , disregard the instructions in that matter. The only way to know if your beer is done is with a hydrometer. I let my beer go in the FV for 3 weeks . Some package sooner , I like to let it clean itself up real good . You doing an extract or all grain? Are you going to bottle or keg? That makes a difference for time wise . Either way I'd brew it , dont do a secondary then I'd dry hop 3-5 days before you package .

 

[pc_trott]

Thanks for the info, Jag75. The kit includes an extract and grain, and I'm planning to bottle it. I have several kegs from when I used to make wine long ago, but I don't have an extra refrigerator at this point, so i'm using bottles. So, three weeks in primary, dry hop five days before the end of that three weeks, and two weeks for bottle conditioning? So I should start it approximately beginning of May to have it ready to drink on June 15th?

 

[Jag75]

You can package earlier then that if you want . I just have my own schedule that I like and works for me. IPAs are suseptable to oxidation, now I'm not sure how delicate a BIPA is to o2 . I would try and limit the o2 as much as possible.

 

[pc_trott]

Thanks! Another question re: the kit instructions. The optimal temperature for the Safale US-05 yeast is 59-75 degrees. My brewing room in the basement is around 60 degrees. Can I leave it at that temperature for the full three weeks? Will it take longer at the low temperature?

 

[Jag75]

Your basement is fine. Fermentation will raise the temp a bit but you should be fine. I think a lot of brewers like that yeast about 64/5 f . It's good to bring the temp up at the end of fermentation. Combats diacetyl that you dont want . So let it come up to 70 at the tail end .

 

[RM-MN]

Thanks! Another question re: the kit instructions. The optimal temperature for the Safale US-05 yeast is 59-75 degrees. My brewing room in the basement is around 60 degrees. Can I leave it at that temperature for the full three weeks? Will it take longer at the low temperature?

The yeast will raise the temperature some as they get active. To combat that, set your fermenter in a tub of water as it will mitigate that. The temperature only needs controlled during the initial part of the ferment, probably 3 to 5 days. After that it can be warmed to room temp to help the yeast clean up the byproducts of fermentation and to start the maturation. With the right conditions during the fermentation I have dry hopped on day 7 and bottled on day 10 but I use my hydrometer to be sure the fermentation is complete before I bottle.

 

[pc_trott]

Thank you both for the info. Just to be sure I understand this, am I getting it right to say that once the activity in the airlock has died down, after 3 to 5 days, I should raise the temp to around 70 for a few days to get rid of the diacetyl? (I had to look up diacetyl to see what it even was. :>) Or should I wait even longer, towards the end of the three weeks, before raising the temp to 70?

 

[Jag75]

After 5 days you can let it warm up. As RM- MN said 3 to 5 days is where temp is crucial. After that it's just clean up

 

[Nanuk-O-Dah-Nort]

... The instructions that came with the extract kit are not very helpful. ...primary... secondary...

my confusion comes in when folks refer to primary.... and adding an airlock.

my kit told me to use a 10gal bucket, which has NO option to seal it.
So leaving it in the "primary" would be leaving it in the open bucket.

others refer to the primary as the "First" container used.... regardless of what it is, and some say "Bucket" as the primary, but obviously are referring to a sealable bucket with an airlock option.

a "secondary" has always been to a sealable container, that can be airlocked.

Things would be easier to me to follow, if those who use 5gal pails, actually referred to them as pails and not buckets.

But I struggle on....

 

[balrog]

I am not daring enough to attempt beer fermentation with open containers, although I know it is done. I would say most of what I read advises the use of lids, airlocks, and general avoidance of all things "open". Therefore, I recommend the use of a lidded, airlocked container for fermentation. I use buckets, sorry, "pails", as well as Big Mouth Bubbler and even ferment in kegs now sometimes. All generally closed to the environment with airlocks.

 

[Snuffy]

When I was a kid, I saw my dad brew beer many times from nothing but Blue Ribbon Malt Syrup and Fleischmann's bread yeast in a bucket with just a towel over it held by a big rubber band. It was rudimentary stuff, but never ruined by the process. He just left it flat and got it ice cold before drinking. The few we stole were malty as heck but definitely beer.

I would never brew without a sealed container and airlock, but lots of things are possible. He also made wine out of oak leaves once just to prove it could be done. Tasted like WD-40 smells.

Unless you are dry-hopping or using some other add that requires prolonged secondary time, I usually go 10 days primary, 14 days secondary and then 2 weeks in the bottle after priming or 1 week in the keg after charging to 35psi and leaving for a week at room temp - then purge, charge to 10 PSI and refrigerate. Sometimes the batch dictates it is ready earlier by getting clear as crystal and looking totally flat. Which you can tell if you use a glass carboy as a secondary. Very seldom does it take longer than 2 P + 2 S + 2 B weeks, regardless of what the paper says.

Also, just FYI, if you brew any of NBs 3-gal BIAB batches, start your boil with 4.5 gals and not 5+ like they recommend or you'll get 3.5 gals of lite beer.

 

[Bubbles2]

I run 05 all the time over here.... ALL the TIME. 70-80 is fine too, I have found that when it gets into the high 60's it really slows and takes a while to come down where 04 does better cooler. I'd start now, the longer in the bottle the better. No secondary, antiquated instructions, too lazy to print new ones over at the shop prob. A secondary is for pulling off the cake at about 30 days cause sitting on yeast that is dying puts off an off flavor. Hence that in the instruct, Now if you were going to lager with lager yeast, you'd leave the yeast on the primary cake for about 30, move to secondary for another 2 months in a conditioned even low temp in the high 50's ie., a fridge with a thermostat that can sit like a wine fridge.
That kit is a partial grain extract. The extract is used for the sachrides like a person who does all grain. Where they spend hours converting starch to sugar via steeping/mashing the grain.
You can Mash the two lbs they gave with the kit, where you will start your kettle to bring to temp, but at 152ºf you hold that temp for 30 minutes, you will squeeze a couple points out of it. Take it to 180ºf pull it.
Add your LME or DME, stir in and bring kettle to boil and add hops as scheduled. About as easy as making macaroni from a box. And if you know how to store cooked food via tupperware or the likes you will ferment just fine. At your temp I'd bet it will take about 2 weeks to get in to settling range or finished. DO NOT KEEP CHECKING it as newbies do. LEAVE IT FOR 2 WEEKS before even thinking about checking where the beer should be pretty clean or clear as the color intended. That tells you the yeast are settling. Speaking of Yeast. Do not be afraid to stir it well when putting in wort, do not be more than 10º difference if making a starter or smack pack yeast.
With tall beers eg., 1060 or higher to come back and stir in a day or two to re introduce o2 and to mix it up. Just make sure you are kitchen clean when doing so.
I bet anyone here my beer, wine and shine are top shelf. Have never been turned down only asked if there is more...or can I buy it?