False Bottom for All-Grain Rubbermaid Cooler.

[NadoHawk]

Are there real differences in efficiencies between the various stainless steel false bottoms on the market?

I am looking to build the first part of my all-grain kit this month (I'm also planning on building a HLT out of a second cooler such as the Rubbermaid one, but are there any other good ideas I should look at before making that decision).

I want to go with a round cooler (most likely Rubbermaid because I have only seen Igloo online) because I just don't have the time (I work 10 hour days half on weekends) or patience to make my own manifold and I also want to have it look more presentable to my non-homebrew friends and family.

Is this one http://www.ritebrew.com/product-p/840836.htm from Ritebrew a decent one or does it have drawbacks?

Also...for the valve...stainless steel or brass?

 

[NadoHawk]

Also. What is the best way to remove the metal taste from the components?

 

[dbrewski]

I have this one. It is hard plumbed so it holds the false bottom down. I'm not sure how these other models keep the bottom from floating or having an edge raise up when stirring. Even so, I get good efficiency but grain bits leak around it no matter what. I've tried to use tubing cut in half lengthwise and wrapped around the outside of it. Finally I wrapped it in a grain bag. That was the ticket. I now get zero grain bits. Now, this may be particular to this brand of false bottom.

To me, that's a lot of expense to have to mess with the extra hassle with the bag. My old copper tubing manifold worked great, not quite as efficient but I didn't have to use a grain bag. Yes it took time and effort to make. Maybe some others have had better experiences.

 

[dbrewski]

As far as metal taste, soak in PBW or oxiclean for 30 minutes. Also, barkeeper's friend works well but requires scrubbing. It has oxylic (sp?) acid in it according to How to Brew.

 

[NadoHawk]

Was not aware of the floating false bottom issue...I'll probably add a weight onto the joint to keep it down.

 

[Pratzie]

http://www.norcalbrewingsolutions.com/store/False_Bottoms_Picnic_Cooler.html

Ive emailed the company and the guy I talked to said he uses one and gets between 75-80 percent efficiency using these. U just need to measure 2 inches above the bottom of the cooler because they size them to ur particular measurements.

I'm in the market for the 10 gallon one when I get some money for my birthday this week, I can't wait to try it!

 

[NadoHawk]

So I got the false bottom...not the best looking one (just me being anal), but it looks up to the challenge.

So I'm a bit lost on getting the valve I want, stainless steel...when I asked at hardware stores for it locally, they just gave me a "I've never even heard of that sort of thing" response.

I'm probably going to get the one from More Beer (I don't see the need for the added cost of a 3-piece (if so, I'd probably go to Bargain Fittings), but I have not found much info on these sort of valves on the internet as is the case with brass (I hate metal taste in beer and want to do everything I can do to eliminate it at every stage of the brewing process). Any advice on what I should get to complete a valve for a Rubbermaid mash tun and HLT (or if you have any other suggestions for one, I'd love to know) would be greatly appreciated.

 

[renegadesauer]

I built a similar contraption. I also work in chemical operations so I know a thing or two about valves also I am a plastics r&d technician so I know about plastic. Go to Lowe's and look in the pvc section. You want to look for valves with HDPE(high density polyethylene). This has high heat tolerances, high yield strength, and contains minimal polyvinyl (toxic monomer) though all of the toxic properties are removed when processed so we are talking 1/1,000,000 chance of .0000001 exposure. For liquids use a 90° ball valve (1/4 turn). Find a gasket (HDPE) for a seal and you're set. I bought mine for under $10. PM me if you have questions, happy brewing!