SeanGC
Well-Known Member
I've been interested in rebuilding my brew set up for some time now, and have decided to pull the trigger on a 10 Gal Portable Electric Home Brewery system.
The idea is simple.
The stand is nothing original. I'm using the plans found on Plude Brewing's website. I figured, why reinvent the wheel. The plans are solid, and they're perfect for someone looking for mobility. However, I removed the bracket keggle trays, since the kegs will be removed for cleaning after every brew session. You can find their pdf here: http://www.pludebrewing.com/downloads/BreweryPlans.pdf
I'm going to start this thread with my Boil Kettle Build out. I'll edit this post with updated information as the build moves along. Additionally, feel free to post any comments or suggestions. I've taken into consideration the experiences of many homebrewers building systems here, and it is reflected in my plans.
Boil Kettle - Parts List (.xlsx)
Concept: Sanitary Boil Kettle with ability to remove all external elements for transport. HLT will follow the same build, but with a HERM coil attached to the inside. Additionally, I've added a bottom drain for cleaning. Some might see this as an unnecessary addition. However, I want the option to switch the ball valve from the front of the system, to the bottom of the system, when appropriate. I also like the idea of rinsing with an outlet at the bottom.
The idea of tri clover is to remove everything and cap the ferrules. This system will see a LOT of movement, and I don't want to damage any of the outside components (I've broken sight glasses just moving my keggles short distances on my current system).
1. Front:
2. Back:
3. Bottom:
The Ball Valve is 3 3/4" above the bottom of the keggle, which seems to be the agree upon distance for installing ball valves. I plan on using the 1" Tri Clover Compatible 3-Piece Ball Valve with 1/2" full bore offered at Brewers Hardware. All of my current connections are 1/2," and I don't want to change the diameter of my hoses and HERMS coil.
While a bit more expensive than I'd like, I plan on using the Brew Magic's sight glass on this system, which is a 1/2" tri clover fitting.
Additionally, I will be adding a 2" ferrule on the back in order to use the 2" Tri Clover Compatible X 1" NPS Element Adapter. I also decided to go with the Camco 2363 5500W 240V Element instead of the Ultra Low Watt Density one. Mainly because it's straight, and shouldn't be an issue installing into the 2" ferrule. I just have to keep my eye on it to make sure it's always immersed when hot.
That's it for now. Please feel free to add any comments or suggestions that you feel will help, and I will update this thread as I continue the build.
Regards,
Sean
The idea is simple.
- System needs to be portable, since I may be using it to teach homebrewing classes off location.
- System needs to be electric
- System needs to be sanitary
The stand is nothing original. I'm using the plans found on Plude Brewing's website. I figured, why reinvent the wheel. The plans are solid, and they're perfect for someone looking for mobility. However, I removed the bracket keggle trays, since the kegs will be removed for cleaning after every brew session. You can find their pdf here: http://www.pludebrewing.com/downloads/BreweryPlans.pdf
I'm going to start this thread with my Boil Kettle Build out. I'll edit this post with updated information as the build moves along. Additionally, feel free to post any comments or suggestions. I've taken into consideration the experiences of many homebrewers building systems here, and it is reflected in my plans.
Boil Kettle - Parts List (.xlsx)
Concept: Sanitary Boil Kettle with ability to remove all external elements for transport. HLT will follow the same build, but with a HERM coil attached to the inside. Additionally, I've added a bottom drain for cleaning. Some might see this as an unnecessary addition. However, I want the option to switch the ball valve from the front of the system, to the bottom of the system, when appropriate. I also like the idea of rinsing with an outlet at the bottom.
The idea of tri clover is to remove everything and cap the ferrules. This system will see a LOT of movement, and I don't want to damage any of the outside components (I've broken sight glasses just moving my keggles short distances on my current system).
1. Front:
2. Back:
3. Bottom:
The Ball Valve is 3 3/4" above the bottom of the keggle, which seems to be the agree upon distance for installing ball valves. I plan on using the 1" Tri Clover Compatible 3-Piece Ball Valve with 1/2" full bore offered at Brewers Hardware. All of my current connections are 1/2," and I don't want to change the diameter of my hoses and HERMS coil.
While a bit more expensive than I'd like, I plan on using the Brew Magic's sight glass on this system, which is a 1/2" tri clover fitting.
Additionally, I will be adding a 2" ferrule on the back in order to use the 2" Tri Clover Compatible X 1" NPS Element Adapter. I also decided to go with the Camco 2363 5500W 240V Element instead of the Ultra Low Watt Density one. Mainly because it's straight, and shouldn't be an issue installing into the 2" ferrule. I just have to keep my eye on it to make sure it's always immersed when hot.
That's it for now. Please feel free to add any comments or suggestions that you feel will help, and I will update this thread as I continue the build.
Regards,
Sean
