It looks like the tube would melt...
I just had it in boiling water. It's fine.
Geez, do you people not have anything else to do than to sit on a forum and poke fun at other people's posts that you know nothing about?
I just had it in boiling water. It's fine.
Geez, do you people not have anything else to do than to sit on a forum and poke fun at other people's posts that you know nothing about?
I just had it in boiling water. It's fine.
Geez, do you people not have anything else to do than to sit on a forum and poke fun at other people's posts that you know nothing about?
Ohhhhhhh
It's not the hot water, it's the flame.
That makes more sense.
Sorry you'll. I'll upgrade to the others plastic
I'm not sure it's the flame so much as the acrylic getting brittle after repeated extreme temperature changes. A fellow brewer I know used to use an autosiphon to drain his near boiling wort into his chiller becuase he didn't want to drill a hole in his kettle. After a while the acrylic tube started getting hairline cracks and then eventually failed. It never had any exposure to flames, just extreme temp changes.
The plastic tube is one thing, but I really wouldn't want that CPVC fitting that close to the bottom of the keggle and the flame.
This fits his price range:
http://www.tapplastics.com/shop/product.php?pid=141&
This is what he should have ordered:
http://www.tapplastics.com/shop/product.php?pid=276&
I realized this is YOU. In any case, change the he's to you's.
I'm not sure it's the flame so much as the acrylic getting brittle after repeated extreme temperature changes. A fellow brewer I know used to use an autosiphon to drain his near boiling wort into his chiller becuase he didn't want to drill a hole in his kettle. After a while the acrylic tube started getting hairline cracks and then eventually failed. It never had any exposure to flames, just extreme temp changes.
Would you use a compression fitting to attach it to a SS coupler?
What size would you recommend for ease of cleaning?
Thanks,
Todd
I just don't see how you're going to know how much water you've actually added, since you're starting with dry grain. The first X gallons of water you add to the mash tun, there shouldn't be much movement at all on the sight glass because that water's going to be mixed in with dry grain. Maybe I'm missing something, though.
Well, for fly sparging it would be good to know that you've matched your input and output rates...
The Little Sumpin Sumpin recipe is out and I'm not waitin' on the mail.
I haven't actually touched them but I have taken them apart and saw no deformation. I'll probably buy a Bobby M special eventually. I built these because it was fun not really to save cost. In the meantime, these will see at least one more brew--The Little Sumpin Sumpin recipe is out and I'm not waitin' on the mail.
Heat Resistance - The maximum "continuous service temperature" of acrylic is between 180 degrees F and 200 degrees F depending on the particular use. This means that while the material can withstand higher temperatures for very short periods of time, it will soften and lose its form or shape if subjected to these higher temperatures for any period of time.
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