$15 ball valve bulkhead from Lowes

[The Pol]

Ball valve bulkhead fittings for $15 from Lowes!! built 2 today, seal perfectly, I cannot wait to use them with my 10 gal system! See here for the parts detail! Pics to follow....

(1) A-836 1/2"MIP x 1 1/2" Brass pipe nipple (goes through cooler wall)
(1) 1/2" x 1/2" FPT x Barb female adapter (hose barb for insife cooler)
(2) 3/4" SS flat washer (one on the outside and one inside to compress grommet to cooler wall)
(2) 1 1/8" OD x 5/8" ID Rubber grommets (for inner and outer seal)
(1) 1/2" x 1/2" MPT x barb Male adapter (for outer hose barb)
(1) 1/2" threaded ball valve (this sis obvious)

The Pol

 

[the_bird]

The only washers I could find at Depot were galvanized, a no-no in highly acidic wort. You have any better luck at Lowes?

 

[The Pol]

These are just hardened washers, and I have used them previously on my other system.

 

[JimiGibbs]

Lowe's carrys SS washers in the specialty fastners section. Where were the Rubber Grommets? Do you think they can stand the heat?

 

[The Pol]

The grommets were in the fasteners section, yes they can take the heat, I have used them on my previous system too, they are fat and seal tight.

The Pol

 

[The Pol]

The 1/2" nipple is actually about 3/4" in diameter, so the 5/8" grommet fits it really tight, seals well.

The Pol

 

[RichBrewer]

It would be great if you could post photos or a diagram with parts if you can.
A lot of us have lots of trouble finding hardware.

 

[The Pol]

I know, I will, they look and operate GREAT! My 4 year old daughter helped me pick the parts and carry them through the store... ha ha. I went to take pics of the assembly and my digital camera was dead thanks to pictures of the kids playing in our snpw before it melts tomorrow. I will be home next weekend and will try to get those pics up there to help out. My previous system never had ball valves, just the little plastic "pinch" valves that crimp the hoses, what a PAIN!!!! Now I can set my ball valves and just reeeeelax!

The Pol

 

[The Pol]

Also used the teflon tape on all of the threads, with 10 gallons of head pressure, there were no leaks.

The Pol

 

[abracadabra]

I decided to make my own washers when I couldn't find one. I chose Lexan which is practically unbreakable but flexable. I felt like it needed the flexability to conform to the curvered wall of the cooler. I really had to tigthen the heck out of it to make it stop leaking. But it seems to be working and holding up well.

 

[Bobby_M]

My Lowes carries 3/4" stainless washers in the specialty drawers. It was like $1.50 for two.

 

[The Pol]

Okay, the flat washers that I purchased say "hardened" but they are gold in color, brass or bronze looking, definately not silver or steel looking. Any ideas as to the composition of them???? Maybe I will just replace them.

 

[FlyGuy]

Okay, the flat washers that I purchased say "hardened" but they are gold in color, brass or bronze looking, definately not silver or steel looking. Any ideas as to the composition of them???? Maybe I will just replace them.

You can buy brass washers, which are good, but they are hard to find and likely would have been expensive. I would replace them if I were you. I think the safest bets are either stainless steel or brass washers.

 

[The Pol]

These washers were almost $2 each... when I go to ACE to pick up my new 10 gallon beverage coolers, I will see what they have too in terms of SS washers.

THX

 

[whodwho]

Okay, the flat washers that I purchased say "hardened" but they are gold in color, brass or bronze looking, definately not silver or steel looking. Any ideas as to the composition of them???? Maybe I will just replace them.

Check with a magnet, most likely anything that a magnet would not stick to would work ( brass, bronze, SS, Alum ) Maybe Just pickle them with the valve and other parts if they are gold in color.

 

[Yuri_Rage]

Okay, the flat washers that I purchased say "hardened" but they are gold in color, brass or bronze looking, definately not silver or steel looking. Any ideas as to the composition of them???? Maybe I will just replace them.

They are probably tempered high carbon steel with zinc/yellow chromate plating. The gold color comes from a chemical dip after the washers are zinc plated. I'd avoid using them in wort.

You should be able to find stainless washers at an industrial hardware store or a place that specializes in fasteners (NOT Lowes or other mega-mart for building materials).

 

[Bobby_M]

Just to clarify, all the Lowes stores in my area carry 3/4" stainless washers in the specialty drawers. It could be a regional thing, but...

 

[Yuri_Rage]

Just to clarify, all the Lowes stores in my area carry 3/4" stainless washers in the specialty drawers. It could be a regional thing, but...

My Dad told me the same thing about the stores in PA. The ones in New Mexico only carry small stainless hardware (numbered machine screw sizes).

 

[the_bird]

I have to drive more than an hour to get to Lowes, so I'm pretty much stuck with Depot. Their stainless washers only go up to 1/2" at my local place. PITA when I was trying to put together my first mash tun, before I broke down and bought a bulkhead fitting.

 

[The Pol]

I have three Lowes within 10 minutes of me, I will get the SS, didnt even think that deeply about it when I was at the store. Now I have to work on my DIY weldless thermomete setup. Trying to get it done for $20 for each tun (mash and HLT)

 

[jayhoz]

Ball valve bulkhead fittings for $15 from Lowes!! built 2 today, seal perfectly, I cannot wait to use them with my 10 gal system! See here for the parts detail! Pics to follow....

(1) A-836 1/2"MIP x 1 1/2" Brass pipe nipple

Thanks for the great information. Could you provide a little more detail (picture?) on this part? I've been searching for what I think is called a close nipple (pipe that is nearly all threads), but the ones I have found are either 1" in length or are just threaded at the ends.

Also, what is holding it all in place? Is it the barb fitting on the inside and the ball valve on the outside? You didn't find that you needed a washer for the outside of the cooler as well?

Thanks again!

 

[FlyGuy]

Thanks for the great information. Could you provide a little more detail (picture?) on this part? I've been searching for what I think is called a close nipple (pipe that is nearly all threads), but the ones I have found are either 1" in length or are just threaded at the ends.

Also, what is holding it all in place? Is it the barb fitting on the inside and the ball valve on the outside? You didn't find that you needed a washer for the outside of the cooler as well?

Thanks again!

Jay, if you can wait a day or two, I just finished my Rubbermaid 10 gallon MLT conversion, and I would be happy to post pictures. Once I figured out what parts to get (this thread helped!) it was amazingly easy to build. Also, the bulkhead-valve fitting is very sturdy, and it never leaked in my 45 minute, full-capacity water test.

 

[jayhoz]

Jay, if you can wait a day or two, I just finished my Rubbermaid 10 gallon MLT conversion, and I would be happy to post pictures. Once I figured out what parts to get (this thread helped!) it was amazingly easy to build. Also, the bulkhead-valve fitting is very sturdy, and it never leaked in my 45 minute, full-capacity water test.

Thanks...I'm looking forward to the pictures. I've got it all laid out; I'm just missing the piece that actually passes through the wall of the cooler.

 

[The Pol]

The nipple I purchased at Lowes, it was 1.5" long and was not fuly threaded. There is a FPT x barb on the inside of the tank and a washer, then the grommet against the inside wall of the cooler. No washer on the outside, didnt need it, just another rubber grommet. Glad to help!

Pol

 

[FlyGuy]

Thanks...I'm looking forward to the pictures. I've got it all laid out; I'm just missing the piece that actually passes through the wall of the cooler.

Jay, I posted my pictures for you here:
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/showthread.php?t=23008

Hope it is helpful!

 

[The Pol]

Lowes has all of the SS washers I could want for $1 each.... still working on the bulkhead for my thermometers....argh

Pol

 

[The Pol]

FlyGUY your setup is very similar to mine, except I used a 5/8" ID rubber grommet for the seal, which fits the brass nipple SUPER tight for a goodseal there and it is also quite wide, so I only use one washer, SS, on the inside only. But other than that, quite similar, I am using a false bottom in my setup though. What sort of EFF. do yall get in thess coolers with the SS braid??

Pol

 

[FlyGuy]

Hey Pol -- I am curious about your design. It sounds similar to what I used, except that you didn't use any washers on the outside. I tried this, but the ball valve wasn't sturdy at all. I needed the washers on the outside to get a tight fit to the cooler, making it very stable. How is yours? Did it cinch up tight to the cooler, or does it 'wobble' a bit? Just curious.

 

[The Pol]

No real wobble... there is a slight ammount of flex, but no wobble. I will have to get some pics when I get some batts for my digital. I am so proud, they look so professional and polished, this is going to me my dream AG system, finally. I am using digital probe therms through the walls too on the MLT and the HLT.

Pol

 

[FlyGuy]

No real wobble... there is a slight ammount of flex, but no wobble. I will have to get some pics when I get some batts for my digital. I am so proud, they look so professional and polished, this is going to me my dream AG system, finally. I am using digital probe therms through the walls too on the MLT and the HLT.

Yes, please post some pics. I would also be curious how you put your thermometer probe through the cooler. Did you use a bulkhead?

 

[jayhoz]

Jay, I posted my pictures for you here:
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/showthread.php?t=23008

Hope it is helpful!

Thanks so much for the pics. The part that I could not get my head around was the nipple. I wasn't sure how I was going to get a tight fit to the cooler with such a wide section of the center of the nipple having no threads. You addressed this with the washers on the outside. Looks great; I'm off to Lowes!!

Thanks again!

 

[The Pol]

Flyguy... I am building a bulkhead, a typical bulkhead and threaded therm would run me $55, that is unacceptable and unecessary. I am headed to Lowes today to get some more ideas cooking. Will keep you updated.

Pol

 

[goose1873]

I know this thread is old and pol has moved on to bigger and better things but I am in the process of converting a 10gal igloo and am using the exact same pieces to create the bulkhead. I decided to go this route b/c 1/2 fittings seemed to fit better then 3/8" in my cooler...Question: If I am planning to put a 12" false bottom (not a braid), do I still put a 1/2" barb x 1/2" FIP on the inside? do I connect to false bottom by hose? or use brass/copper fittings?

thanks

goose

 

[The Pol]

I know this thread is old and pol has moved on to bigger and better things but I am in the process of converting a 10gal igloo and am using the exact same pieces to create the bulkhead. I decided to go this route b/c 1/2 fittings seemed to fit better then 3/8" in my cooler...Question: If I am planning to put a 12" false bottom (not a braid), do I still put a 1/2" barb x 1/2" FIP on the inside? do I connect to false bottom by hose? or use brass/copper fittings?

thanks

goose

Most commercial falsies have a barb elbow in the center, so you use a piece of hose to connect them Hope it goes well!

 

[firebird77]

Just a helpful tip: West Marine has a large variety of stainless fasteners that Lowes and HD do not carry. IDK how useful their selection is for our applications as it's been a while since I've been there, but it is a good place to look for local SS hardware.