1 bbl electric HERMS build

[steadfasthops]

So its time for me to start sharing my progress on our (girlfriend/ brewing partner Rachelle and I) 1bbl system that has been in the works for coming up on 10 months. The things we wanted in the system were that we wanted it to be able to brew batches from 10g-1bbl, needs to last forever and make it easy for anyone to use (no heavy lifting or straining to do anything). After lots of research, like may others, I became infatuated with Kal’s Electric Brewery system and that led me to want something like it but shot in the neck with HGH. I ordered all the control panel parts from Kal and made the necessary additions that I would need to power a 1bbl batch and so that I could power both kettles at once. I have a 5500w and 4500w element in the BK and two 4500w elements in the HLT; to get enough power I have two live feeds instead of one (one 50a and one 30a). It’s made so you can select the HLT or one BK element and there is a separate switch for one BK element.





I also got talked out of using the Blichmann Boilermaker 55gal kettles which I had planed on using and instead went with Stout Tanks. John is a great person to do Business with I special ordered a 55g HLT 45g BK and 40g MLT with all the bells and whistles. I can’t say enough about how great they look. It not only saved a lot of time and headache but it also saved me money in the long run. I calculated it out a few months ago on how much it was going to cost to pay for the Blichmann kettles and all the hardware/ shipping that goes on them to make a Kal clone and I saved close to 2 grand going with stout tanks.





I went a little overboard with the brew sculpture… but I made it so like I said earlier anyone can use it (I could teach grandma to use it and she could). The MLT and BK are on my version of a tippy dump, which I will take better pics of soon, and use air spring to help ease the load of tipping the kettles both ways. I wanted the kettles to be able to tip straight into a trash can for easier cleaning and to help the back. Because of that I made a cat walk so you can get up to the level of the kettles to check on everything. I also added a little sink and work station.









This is my extreme plate chiller pics say it all.





All in all it’s coming along and should be ready to brew on this next week end! I want to do a couple batches before I finish it just so I can still weld anything else I might want to add before paint.

 

[snackson]

That looks awesome! Keep us posted on the brews!

 

[JerseyJoe]

That might be the mac daddy battleship of all brewstands. WOW

 

[tally350z]

Looks awesome. Make sure to post pics of the brew day...

 

[steadfasthops]

Thanks guys! We're planning on double batching just to try it. 10g of Saison and 10g imperial IPA. I'll take video and pics

 

[tally350z]

What kind of ferm vessels do you have?

 

[steadfasthops]

What kind of ferm vessels do you have?

That's the next venture! I'm planning on getting plastic 85 gallon inductor tanks and outfitting them with TC fittings but I have no where to put them yet. Right now I have a fermentation locker that can hold 5 carboys. I'm planning on getting a 20' shipping container and making it our brewery but that is a future project.

 

[Rivenin]

holy damn son! thats rad.

 

[Bsquared]

Impressive...most impressive.

I've talked to these guys up in alpine, they say they usually have plastic inductor tanks in stock.Shipping can almost double the price on inductor tanks.

Keep your eye out for walk in coolers, I know Blind lady was selling a 6x8x9 working unit for $500 a couple weeks back.

 

[steadfasthops]

Impressive...most impressive.

I've talked to these guys up in alpine, they say they usually have plastic inductor tanks in stock.Shipping can almost double the price on inductor tanks.

Keep your eye out for walk in coolers, I know Blind lady was selling a 6x8x9 working unit for $500 a couple weeks back.

Thanks for the heads up I hate shipping cost! I try and keep an eye out on CL as much as possible. That walk in would be nice.....

 

[Bsquared]

Also you might want to think about putting a small stainless steel coil into the inductor tank and pump cold water through it to regulate temps in the fermentor.

 

[Latka]

I don't have anything constructive to add other than "Wow." No restricting the flow on that double plate chiller! You'll be going in at 212F and coming out at 80, even with things wide open!

 

[copyright1997]

After lots of research, like may others, I became infatuated with Kal’s Electric Brewery system and that led me to want something like it but shot in the neck with HGH. I ordered all the control panel parts from Kal and made the necessary additions that I would need to power a 1bbl batch and so that I could power both kettles at once. I have a 5500w and 4500w element in the BK and two 4500w elements in the HLT; to get enough power I have two live feeds instead of one (one 50a and one 30a). It’s made so you can select the HLT or one BK element and there is a separate switch for one BK element.

.

Any chance of getting a copy of your control panel layout and schematic, parts list etc. I'm thinking of doing a panel with multiple feeds and would appreciate using your work as a model!

 

[steadfasthops]

I don't have anything constructive to add other than "Wow." No restricting the flow on that double plate chiller! You'll be going in at 212F and coming out at 80, even with things wide open!

Ya I've been using it in my current system and wide open with the march pump using 60f water at full flow and it chills 10 gallons to 68f in 9.5 min hahaha I love the thing I'm gonna have to regulate temp by restricting water flow not wort.

 

[steadfasthops]

Any chance of getting a copy of your control panel layout and schematic, parts list etc. I'm thinking of doing a panel with multiple feeds and would appreciate using your work as a model!

I basically used Kals schematics except I bumped everything up to 50a. This lead powers all the internal parts and pumps plus the HLT and one BK elements on a 3 position switch. Then the other 30a lead is only powering one element. I can work up a diagram if it would help it will just be a while.

 

[br1dge]

Very nice rig.. Curious about the panel, did you order Kal's kit and modify it, or order the completed unit and modify it, or have him modify it before you got it?

 

[steadfasthops]

Very nice rig.. Curious about the panel, did you order Kal's kit and modify it, or order the completed unit and modify it, or have him modify it before you got it?

I requested a custom order from Kal after emailing back and forth with him. because alot of the parts needed to be 50a i just modified his design to add extra components and he put in the order from spike innovations. It was the better choice, if I had tried to order all the parts on my own it would have been twice as expensive after shipping cost. the box I got on eBay it's huge! 8" deep 20"wide and 24" tall

 

[copyright1997]

I basically used Kals schematics except I bumped everything up to 50a. This lead powers all the internal parts and pumps plus the HLT and one BK elements on a 3 position switch. Then the other 30a lead is only powering one element. I can work up a diagram if it would help it will just be a while.

So, any given component has only one possible source of power? If so, no need for the schematic.

I am thinking about a design which would allow for a migration from 30AMP to higher (50 or 60) or two 30AMP. When in single 30AMP mode, it would perform one way (e.g. use a selector switch to determine whether the BK or HLT element was powered), but when in dual mode would allow both to be powered simultaneously. I was just hoping someone (you) had a similar design.

 

[steadfasthops]

So, any given component has only one possible source of power? If so, no need for the schematic.

I am thinking about a design which would allow for a migration from 30AMP to higher (50 or 60) or two 30AMP. When in single 30AMP mode, it would perform one way (e.g. use a selector switch to determine whether the BK or HLT element was powered), but when in dual mode would allow both to be powered simultaneously. I was just hoping someone (you) had a similar design.

You should be able to run two elements on 50a they would be pulling around 23 amps per element depending on your power level on the PID. Just run the elements in parallel and put them on their own 2 position switches( one switch for each element) that way you can power one at a time or both at once. The reason Kal uses a 3 position switch is he is only running on 30a so if he ran both at once it would blow the breaker. The reason mine is set up the way it is because I have 4 heating elements which if they all ran at the same time would pull about 80a. I've never seen plugs for that amperage so I use 2 feeds.

 

[copyright1997]

You should be able to run two elements on 50a they would be pulling around 23 amps per element depending on your power level on the PID. Just run the elements in parallel and put them on their own 2 position switches( one switch for each element) that way you can power one at a time or both at once. The reason Kal uses a 3 position switch is he is only running on 30a so if he ran both at once it would blow the breaker. The reason mine is set up the way it is because I have 4 heating elements which if they all ran at the same time would pull about 80a. I've never seen plugs for that amperage so I use 2 feeds.

My requirements are a bit different. I currently have a single 30AMP 240VAC feed (dryer), and I'm doing to use my laundry room as the brew room. So, the natural thing would to do a Kal-like build with a selector switch to go between the HLT and BK. However, I eventually want to run a dedicated service (50/60/maybe 100 AMP sub panel) to a brewery room, but I don't want to have to completely re-do my control panel.

So, I was thinking of building the CP with the higher capacity, but ensuring it can't use over the 30AMP with the initial setup. I realize the 30AMP circuit will be overload protected, but I don't really want to rely on that and would like to have some sort of additional protection on the control panel itself. Some possibilities:
1) Have two 30AMP feed's on the control panel and some sort of control circuitry (switch) based on 1 feed vs 2 feeds.
2) Just wire it up for 50AMP (or 60AMP) with a 50 (or 60) AMP feed receptacle, and then within the control panel simply have a 25 or 30AMP circuit breaker on the feed.
3)Forget about this silly idea and get on with wiring up a "simple" 30AMP control panel with a selector switch for BK/HLT.

 

[hopsalot]

Stout tanks are pretty cool due to their narrow diameter. Smaller batches are possible. I don’t think making a 10 gal batch in a 45 gal boilermaker would be very efficient. Love the catwalk and sink

 

[thelorax121]

Great build. I would love to see some more pics of your tippy dump setup if you find the time!

 

[lotbfan]

Thread necro -

Did you do a sketchup on your stand? I would love to get a look at it for smallification purposes if you did (I am only looking at a 1/2 bbl system). Swmbo is frighteningly short, ramps would help her feel more involved, thus allowing me to spend more money.

TIA