1/2 inch copper for the Whirlpool

[BrewMoreBeers]

I decided a needed a better way to whirlpool than just stirring... and i was to scared to dill a large hole in my nice Boilermaker. So, i took two lengths of 1/2 inch copper, attached a 90 and a 90 street together at the top and a 90 on the inside of the pot side. on the outside portion i added a 45 and a 1/2 NPT fitting that i will hook up to my tubing/pump.

My question is... on the inside of the boiler portion i am planning to have the wort discharge about an inch below the surface - is that deep enough?

And, is just letting the wort pour out of the 90 degree fitting going to work or do i need to add a length of copper tube to (for lack of a better term) "riffle" the wort so that the stream is more stable upon exiting the contraption.

 

[Catt22]

My question is... on the inside of the boiler portion i am planning to have the wort discharge about an inch below the surface - is that deep enough?

And, is just letting the wort pour out of the 90 degree fitting going to work or do i need to add a length of copper tube to (for lack of a better term) "riffle" the wort so that the stream is more stable upon exiting the contraption.

IME the the precise location of the wort return is not at all critical. What is critical is to ensure that the returning wort mixes well and with the upper few inches of wort in particular. What I'm attempting to say is that the wort will stratify temperature wise with the significantly hotter wort staying near the top and the cooler wort staying at the bottom. It's best not to have the returning wort splashing, so just below the surface it OK, but you could also direct the returning wort upward towards the surface. Also, IMO you do not need any kind of tube extension on the return. Aim the return towards the side wall of the kettle and upwards toward the surface. Turbulence is desirable in this situation as it improves the mixing. When I initially set up my CFC and pumped back to the kettle, my return was at just below the middle of the keg. I was shocked to discover that the upper few inches of wort remained at well above 125F while the circulating wort was under 80F. That's when I figured out that you need to get the upper regions mixed in well some way. I was happily transferring the 75F cooled wort to the fermenter when I noticed the temp shoot up radically near the end. Very radically actually.

 

[BrewMoreBeers]

Great. Thank you. This confirms what i am planning.

 

[Ohio-Ed]

I agree with Catt.

I built a return very similar to what you are describing... an upside down"U" shaped copper assembly with a quick disconnect on one leg and a 90 degree elbow on the other.

It will whirlpool fine, but I found there can be a 30f+ temp difference between the top and bottom of the liquid.

I used a wood clamp across the legs to adjust the height of the assembly to set the output just below the surface.

I have since rebuilt my BK with an adjustable return built into the side.

 

[jtrainer]

I have since rebuilt my BK with an adjustable return built into the side.

Can you give me an idea of what you did to make the return adjustable?

 

[Ohio-Ed]

Can you give me an idea of what you did to make the return adjustable?

The "legs" of the "U" are as close together as they can be and slide into the keg. I just used a hand screw wood clamp across the legs to limit how far it will slide into the keg.

Ed

Sorry, reread your message... The new keg just has a coupling welded in the side with a 90 degree elbow inside and a short piece of ss tube. The "return port" is about the 5 gallon point in the keg. The elbow is loose enough that I can raise or lower it to adjust where the output goes.

 

[BrewMoreBeers]

Maiden run today... Whirlpool was weak. I am going to add a length of copper tubing that has been hammered flat on one end to create a jet. Hopefully that will give me more force for the whirlpool.