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I think as long as you have a way to throttle the flow from the pump outlet (eg. ball valve) it wouldn't matter.

You could look through this thread Fully Automated Brewing System Design for some ideas :eek:

Hey Guys, I'm looking at getting some o-rings for corny keg lids from Oringsandmore on Ebay but they seem to not have the size 417 at the moment but do have size 416 so I'm wondering if the 416 would be ok? The 416 is about 1/8 inch (~3mm) smaller than the 417 in both internal and outer...

A bit of extra messing around but what about putting a sieve under the kettle/hlt return hose to catch the bits of grain? Provided it's not a plate chiller. If your setup can easily reconfigure the hoses, just connect the MLT, K/HLT & PUMP in a closed loop.

You'll see from post #14 (wow, more than 600 ago!) that Jeff recirculates the strike water as it approaches the strike temp (to warm up the MLT) before dough in (and then wait for it to ramp up again, of course) - you could do that as well. Handy tip: keep some chilled water in case you need to...

Any thoughts to what happens the other way? Eg. suppose you manage to max out at the ~100IBU level and continue boiling so the wort volume decreases through evaporation. Then either solubilized iso-alpha acids remain in solution and break through the 100IBU barrier, or they start to...

Ah yes, good point. :rolleyes:

Bit of a necro post but it just occurred to me that "store metal items wet" is not that different to having beer in the corny keg? So that some pitting of kegs in an unavoidable outcome of storing beer in kegs?

Hi Guys, Have been having a discussion with Walter on pump enclosures that I thought might be handy for other 809 owners to know. Here's my pump doghouse :p, btw. Cheers, Tom.

After my previous funky little enclosure started to fall apart (literally!), I found a one gallon gasoline container that's just about perfect as a portable enclosure for a March 809PL pump. BUILD DETAILS.

If things were going "normally", 3 weeks should be more than enough time for a ferment to finish and clear up a beer (assuming an ale) so perhaps you have stalled ferments. In this case, you could perform a fast ferment test like THIS one - or a more thorough description is Braukaiser's Fast...

Which brings up a safety issue - consider where you're storing the large tanks in terms of confined space and leaking CO2, could be potentially fatal.

Thank you for the feedback guys. I brew small batches (~5gal) so a motorised, sheaved mill wouldn't need to run for very long at any one time and probably won't get too hot before finishing. It looks like TEFC motors are available here as well fortunately, since international shipping of...

Hello Brewophiles, Looking through the motorized mill setups in this thread, just about all of the ones using sheaves and large electric motors have the motors uncovered and I was wondering whether there is a reason the motors need to be uncovered or is it simply that noone has bothered to do...

If you're doing a recirculating mash, keep in mind there will also be starch conversion happening in the boiler as well so if you set the boiler to 72F so the M/T is 70F, one could argue you're mashing at an average of 71F. So maybe set boiler to 71F?

Might it be worth thinking about low density elements instead? HBT search "low watt density". That amazon link you pointed to is high density. Here is one link from the various threads on this: PlumbingSupply.com You would need to make sure the outlets are off different circuits coming...

I use my Countertop Brutus 20 in the bathroom for the mash and boil, and my recently motorized mill in the shower cubicle. ... and no, I don't have a fermenting fridge in the bathroom. :D

Wow! There are some amazing mill motorizations here. Here's my little outboard motorboat - at least that's what it reminds me of :) More details in my BrewAdelaide forum post - one of the other forum members was able to source DC garage rollerdoor motors that seem to work quite well...

But you don't actually need to put the bleach/OXY solution into the inside of the bottles if you're trying to remove labels. An extra step maybe but you could fill the bottle with plain water before putting them into a tub that is then filled with enough bleach/OXY solution to cover the...

As an extra measure, I make an estimate of how many bottles I'm going to fill, half fill most of the bottles in a first run and then go back and top up the bottles in a second run in the same order. I only use 750mL (25oz?) bottles and would imagine this would be more onerous if using 350mL...