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Salt water and ice.

Cooling it down may have stalled the yeast. Take a gravity, if it hasn't reached FG, warm it up and swirl the bucket/carboy.

The hops are certainly okay. Your yeast is probably fine too assuming it wasn't 90 degrees where you left it. Smack it, if it swells you will be fine.

I think using estimated OG is more accurate than measured with partial boils. Its tough to get everything mixed, especially if you primary in a carboy.

Just bought a 5 gallon pail (60 lbs) of locally produced raw, filtered, WF honey here in Maine for $155. That's $2.60/lb. That beats any mail order pail I could find. I was very surprised, don't rule out the local sources without checking prices first!

No need to be embarrassed, show off your extract skills!

I agree just use 2-row in place a extra light on extract, its not Pilsen. I guess I should have read your recipe more closely :drunk:

For simplicity figure pilsen lme and pilsen malt yield the same ppg, roughly 37 ppg. You just have to account for loss of efficiency so you scale up the pilsen malt by 30%. You need 5 * 70% or roughly 7 lb 4 oz pilsen malt. Keep everything else the same. Hope this helps.

You could also pitch a Brett. strain and make it funky. Brett'll eat anything :)

They're not really meant to hold pressures needed to carb beer.

Alpha Amylase should covert unfermentables without heat, AFAIK.

Is your beer reaching FG before bottling? Any off flavors?

Did you do a partial boil? If so - maybe your top up water and wort weren't mixed thoroughly when you took your gravity reading.

Goal on the input side is to have as little restriction as possible. Ideally, this means nothing less than 1/2 inch ID between the source vessel and pump input. I have this with my pump and when I open my source (Mash tun) wort will flow from the tun through the 4 feet of tubing, through the...

I set a 6 gallon better bottle or bucket inside a wine bucket, place a brew belt at the bottom of the out bucket, and wedge my stc probe between the buckets with foam insulation. I have had no problems maintaining 10-15 degrees above ambient this way.

I clean my posts/poppets between every beer, but I'm not convinced its necessary. I have never really seen any "gunk". Hop debris seems to be the most common buildup if you dry hop in the keg. I put all my hops(usually whole leaf) in a muslin bag. Warranty voiding due to post removal seems...

Technically you overpitched. Will you have any problems? Probably not. FWIW, starters with dry yeast is a waste of time. Dry yeast is ready to ferment (good cell count and nutrients) up to 1060, anything over just use more yeast. For best results, rehydrate before pitching.

Yes, its degassing. You should add nutrients again at 48 and 72 hours, stir to degass.

Make sure the controller jumper is set to cool mode. Usually they ship that way, but you never know. Do you hear the relay click at all when the temp crosses the set point ?

Sorry, my statement was a little unclear. All I'm suggesting is that when you pressurize a keg filled with liquid (soda, water, beer, etc) then you have a small amount of head space. When you let the keg sit without the gas source the gas in the head space is absorbed into the liquid...