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Yes you have to rinse it off, like any other cleaning product. Star San, a sanitizer not a cleaner, does not have to be rinsed off when you sanitize. :mug:

Beer was racked into the keg at room temp. I am wondering when it should be fully carbed? Fridge temp is 35 deg.

Coppery taste could be a water quality issue. Any iron or sulphur in your brewing water?

I see some black spots on the underside of my orange carboy cap that I think may be mold. I cannot scrub them off at all. Also what's the best way to get the blow off tube clean after its filled with gunk? Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.

I stir pretty fast (from the outside edge of the kettle only) for about two minutes and then let the kettle sit for 30 minutes. Works very well if I syphon from the outside edge of the kettle after the 30 minute rest. I get very little trub in the fermentor. I also plan to leave about 1.25...

Boil off is (Pre-boil volume - Post boil volume) / pre-boil volume. Example (7.5g pre - 6.5g post) / 7.5 pre = 13.33% Boil Off Rate :mug:

I do it and it works fine, I have a main burner about 16K btu, and I put the kettle over that and a smaller 6K burner and can bring 7.5g to a boil in about 45 minutes. Inside brewing (rain or shine) BTW I have a Blichmann burner for outside too ! :rockin:

This may be true and late additions may work best for 2-3 gal partial boils. But I have never seen the wort darken as a result of using light LME with a full boil. (6.5gal) I made a brown ale today that was spot on in color and OG. I used 6.6lbs of Breiss extra light (4 L) LME and added this to...

A cup or two of vinegar in a pot of water just big enough to place the chiller in will do a great job getting it really clean.

Add the honey in at the very end of the boil. (for possibly less color due to caramelization) You could also prime the bottles with honey, instead of corn sugar.

First of all like previously mentioned a finer grain crush will help you the most. While mashing and sparging you should stir the mash a few minutes before draining. Not 30 minutes ahead a couple minutes ahead of draining. Think of your job being to force all the sugars up out of the grain...

Morebeer.com or Northernbrewer.com or Austinhomebrew.com or Midwestsupplies.com all are very good and offer a full range of whatever you may need.

To not confuse anyone here, I am talking again about getting to full maximum carbonation in the bottle. Not just drinkable carbonation. For example when you fast carb in a keg if you set at 30psi for 24 hours then go to serving pressure say 10psi, it is not fully carbed yet. Is it drinkable...

Not too many of us are commercial brewers, so I will stand by the comments I made. When YOU not Sierra Nevada can prove that you can have perfectly carbonated beer in a week, please show me how to do that. I would be very interested in doing that. The majority of the experienced brewers on...

I think in general you have two types of brewers. The first doesn't really care about quality and doing things right they just want cheap beer. The others like most of the posters myself included, are trying to make the Best Beer possible. I don't short cut or do things because they are cheaper...

Fill your airlock up some more to half way otherwise air can go in the holes from the center piece and down into your carboy and beer after the CO2 being given off is gone. I made an all-grain version of this and everyone who has tried it liked it. Should be good !

I have made quite a few Oktoberfests and I leave my beer in primary for at least 4 weeks. Then if you choose to actually lager it you would rack to a secondary and then drop temp to around 32-36 degrees for a month or two. Most of my lager beers are done in 2-3 weeks at lager fementation temps...

You could use 1056 American Ale yeast which will ferment down to 60 deg or 1728 Scottish Ale yeast which will go down to 56 deg. I would go with the 1056 myself. Cheers!

Theoretically a well made bottled beer can have great head and lacing. But I also agree that my kegged beers have better head retention. I would maybe try a 6 wk bottle conditioned beer and see if it was truly at max co2 level. We tend to rush things in bottles and having good carbonation...

How many batches have you done? I have done over 100 batches now and wonder if that could be it ? One other question, do you drain slow or just let it rip ?