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Thanks all for the good advice. I will use the L14-30 inlets for their flexibility. These are being used for power in only. I think the L6-30 would work fine wired as hot/neutral/ground for the 120V hookup and hot/hot/ground for 240V. In both cases there is a dedicated ground wire. With that...

I need flanged inlets for my control panel. I'm currently using 2x 2000W 120V elements with no control panel. I'd like to use an inlet that would still work if I move and have 240V available. Can I use L6-30 3 wire inlets and connect to my 120V source? I'm planning on using L6-30...

ikonis, can you tell me more about that multi-contactor switch you've got in your picture? I want to do this exact same config. All the selector switches I've seen come with 2 blocks. Did you find one with 4 blocks or can you buy the regular 2 block switch an somehow attach 2 extra blocks...

OK, here's my fix. I think I have to switch after the load or else I won't be able to have one element in each vessel powered on. For the switch, I was actually planning on using something like this...

What heat sink are you using? May be that it's too small or you don't have enough air flow around it. Is the sink inside an enclosure?

That's a great idea with the dual out SSRs. I already have several MGR-1 D4825 SSRs so I will make use of those. How does this first draft wiring diagram look? I'm going with 4 SSRs but otherwise trying to keep it as simple as possible. I don't really need any lights, timers, buzzers, etc...

What are you using to make the wiring diagram picture? That looks incredibly useful.

jeffmeh, I agree with this 100%. Will do. machfive, my plan is really very similar to yours. I'm going to get the BK wired up first in the next couple weeks, then slowly add everything else for the HLT. Right now I just do 2-3 gal batches on the stove but its too messy. I'll have a 7.75g...

Thanks to all for your replies. machfive55, I see what you're saying but that gets me to having 6 relays (2 SSR + 4 mechanical). I guess I'd probably go for the 4 SSRs instead to minimize wiring and footprint inside the control panel. I'm interested in your current setup. I hadn't considered...

I want to run 2x 120V 20A inputs into 2 2352 controllers. Controller 1 is for the HLT and controller 2 is for boil kettle. From each controller I want to run 2x 1650w elements. I want flexibility to have 2 and only 2 elements getting power at any given time. I want to be able to do 2 elements...

Ah, I may have gotten the capper only version then. This thing is from an eBay auction that definitely said it corks but it looks like the pictures I found of the bench top capper. I'd get a floor corker but literally have no where to keep it. I'll probably just have to get the other colonna...

I have this capper but it only came with one capper crown. I need the cork attachment and preferably some other crown sizes. Anyone know where you can buy these? Thanks.

Thanks. I didn't know about the refractometer correction. The last 2 are still in the carboys so I'll check with a hydrometer. I had a hydrometer but replaced it with a refractometer which I assumed was the better tool. An extra question for etbeer. You think I'd be better off fermenting on...

I've only just started brewing but I already need help on figuring out attenuation. 1st brew: APA, OG=1.051, single infusion @ 148F for 80 minutes, Wyeast 1056 smack pack, no starter, aeration via shaking, pitched at 72F and fermented at 64-71 for 10 days. I checked the gravity after 4...