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Well, the stress and the smoking and all the nicotine/caffeine burns all the "bees" (B1, B6, B12) with such speed that you cannot compensate, especially if your work requires a lot of sitting and thinking and not much of outdoors. So, I would bet that at least 50% of office workers have all...

pasteurize it!

try sugar cubes. I have bottled about 20 batches, best way to do it is to find sugar cubes that are small enough to be scale able - 1cube for small bottle, 2 cubes for bigger one and so one. Just make sure they go through the bottleneck. btw, bottling is very nice way to do it if - you can give...

Well, as for tonight, I am staying loyal to local brews - Tērvetes Senču Alus (Beer of the Ancestors made by Tervertes brewery) is probably one of the best Latvian lagers available on the market (not only my opinion). It is superbly light and have a fantastic malt aroma - light malt...

if you are into kit brewing, IMHO, from Coopers kits Dark Ale is the best, but, Brewferm kits (taste wise) do kick ass... have to say, its been a long (about year) since I hit a kit into a bucket :D

make a step by step checklist (brewlist) with all the amounts/temps/steps/items list. + most important steps: 1) have a good beer while you do it 2) when you are all but done - brew is in fermenter and yeast is in, pick up your favorite kid story book and read it some (preferably something...

steaks + Sierra Nevada Brews = good evening... tho I have to say that for a Latvian that porter tasted too watery.. Aldaris Porter is much better... then again, if you want to make a good IPA - add few drops of Sierran Nevada Torpedo to your favorite pale ale *grin*... was a good evenin'

nope, probably refining process, had split tests on same batch. Anhow, just heads up, might be an issue with some cheaper sugars - taste is sweet, but fermentation makes awful smells

it really depends on what you brew and your personal taste... I like my wheats and light pale ales while they are green - that puts them very drinkable (to my taste) in about 4-5 weeks after brewday. Just put my last 2 bottles of 8.5% dark ale into cooler - they are 10months old now, started...

o.O ganja tea would be my pick.... what do you want to do with them? dryhop? lol :D or add as flavoring hops? Im puzzled.

hmm... are you using Beersmith to adjust mash temps? btw, you do need to stir for good 2-3 mins for temps to equal out. I usually prepare bit more water for dough-in, in case I undershoot temp for some reason, I have a bit of extra hot water to adjust. When I overshoot, I usually just stir...

some plain white table sugars are made out of beets - had nasty smell when fermented, took couple months to wither away. better corn sugar or fructose/etc then

thanks JJL!

Well, here is the kicker - it ferments like crazy, its alive in there - whirling and rising tiny bubbles to the top all the time - looks like slow washing machine whirling something in there but its not krausening - just a tiny bubble layer on top and thats it - they break, release the usual...

I do 120min boil on Pils malt - I have European grain and consensus among local home brewers is that Pils malt here have more of those "bad" things in it that needs boiling (vaporising) out. I have tried 120min boil with first wort hopping and did not notice anything bad with extra 60 min on...

I'm usually happy after 3 weeks in primary - imho works nice with most ~1.050ish OG ale brews, longer with heavier, +1-2 weeks if its lager yeast fermented at low temps. but it really sorta depends on the brew. I have spigots in my fermenters, so I draw samples from time to time - checking...

I think, this forum itself has more valuable and up to date info, that is usually cross-referenced/checked by rather large amount of actual home brewers, than Palmer's book, however, it makes a nice relaxing sort of zen-reading :D

I have a small 50ml labeled glass lab test jar from aquarium water testing kits (PH n stuff) - they are neatly labeled, so I have figured out that 7ml of starsan concentrate are good for 2l water (with the ~25% buffer, exact measure was about 5ml to 2l, but I figure that there will be losses...

I just made a pale ale 23l batch with all Citra hops - 20g first wort hopping, 120min boil, 20g 15min and 20g at 5min - was just a few kilos of Pils malt, light body mash profile and US-05 yeast - does not get any simpler than that. SWMBO drank 2 pints out of fermenter while I was bottling it...

I think you can tell if you need a D rest by how it smells/tastes. Since I had only 4 lager batches, I can only tell from my experience - I always did D-rest at the end of active fermentation phase, but, I never nosed or tasted any diacetyl in beer before the rest - so maybe it could have been...