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After studying your latest drawing update a bit more, it looks great! Adding the relay after the SSR is a great improvement. If you have auxiliary 120V available, such as a power strip on your brew bench, I wouldn't even bother adding it to your box. Then you could even get away with 6/2 wire...

I built something similar. The element rocker switches control the 3.3V DC signal from the RPI (which I have custom NodeJS web server with PID running on the Raspberry Pi). I don't have any fuses, but it is attached to a GFCI 60A breaker. Maybe I should add fuses. I ran the 120V line to the...

I would slow down the flow with a ball valve or add a long inlet line so the coolant warms up before entering. The problem of over-shooting is having too much/too cold liquid in your heat exchanger when the thermostat clicks off.

My process with 1 heating element at a time: 1) Fill HLT with 10 gal and heat to strike temp ~170°F. I mix in mash salts. I have a separate HLT pump recirculating it for even temp. 2) When HLT is at strike temp, transfer needed amount to Mash Tun (typically 9 gal) 3) Fill HLT with cold sparge...

While I don't have any experience with the RoboBrew products, I have built my own electric HERMS brewery, so hopefully my feedback has some value. I upgraded from a RIMS system and haven't looked back. The RIMS heater coil burned the grain particles that made it past the filter at the beginning...

I would suggest never using a refractometer after any alcohol has been produced. Stick to the hydrometer after fermentation.