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It's sold.

For Sale, my complete collection of homebrewing gear, capable of up to 30 gallon batches. - Coleman "coffin cooler" mash tun - two 15 gallon aluminum brew kettles - one 7 gallon brew kettle (used for heat exchanger in HERMS) - two jet burners outfitted for natural gas (cheaper than LP) -...

Scratch that. The reducer is 2" female to 3/4 inch female. I added a barb in between that and the valve.

I cant remember for sure, but I think I got all the additional parts from Ace hardware locally. The 2" male to 3/4 inch female reducer shouldn't be too hard to find. I added the pipe clamp around the spout for a little extra security but I'm not sure it's needed.

Here's a photo of my setup. For reference, the crossmember on the stand is just above the 1 gallon line.

I usually do 20 or 25 gallon batches. With the dump/collect/dump schedule I suggested above I've never had the trub collect much higher than about a half gallon (about 4-5 inches up the cone). I've neglected to dump the trub on several occasions and it might get up close to the racking port, but...

Your setup is very close to what I have, same stand, it appears. My racking port is about 6-8 inches up from the base of the cone, slightly below the 1-gallon line (at about the 3/4 gallon area). I don't bother with a racking cane, never saw the need for one when the trub is usually only at...

Mine's mounted vertically (the fermenter sits in the basement bathroom, directly above a drain). The racking port is at about 45 degrees but I generally try to dump or collect before the trub reaches that high up the cone. I think you'd be just fine with vertical-mounted 3/4 inch dump port...

I have a 30 gallon with a 3/4 inch dump at the bottom, occasionally it takes a minute to begin flowing, but I've never had it clog up entirely. I think you'd be okay going to 1/2 inch.

When I moved from 10 to 25 gallon batches I quickly realized that cleaning and sanitizing five carboys was a royal pain in the A. Also, racking to kegs too forever. The best purchase I made was a 30 gallon HDPE conical fermenter.

How big a hole are we talking? Couldn't you just use a step bit and a drill?

Thanks for the suggestions guys. 30 gallons of boiling water is going to be a tall order, but I'm going to give it a go with hot tap water and bleach.

Okay Ladies and Gents, I've got an infection in the beer presently residing in my 30 gallon high-density polyethylene conical. Don't ask me what type of bug it is, I don't know sour beer at all, and that's beside the point. I'm planning to go ahead and keg up the beer this weekend. I'll...

needs to stay in the fermenter for a few more weeks. Perhaps use gelatin after 4 or 6 weeks in the fermenter.

This is hardly a disaster, I expect your beer will be quite good. So what if your pH and mash temp were a bit off? Don't get hung up on being perfect, especially on your first few AG brews. I rarely have a brew day that comes off without a few hiccups.

Don't bother racking to secondary. The gelatin only takes a couple of days to settle out so I'd suggest leaving the beer in primary for a few more days and then add gelatin 2 days before you keg it. I use gelatin after dry hopping frequently, never had problems.

Just found this thread, love it. OP, I think you might be developing Stockholm Syndrome with respect to this brew. Cheers!

Removing the apical meristem (the bud at the tip of the bine) upests the balance of growth hormones in the plant (auxin, cytokinin and gibberilin) and causes more growth from the lateral meristems; this can cause the plant to grow thicker and produce more flowers and fruit. That said, I'm not...

It shouldn't make too big a difference. You can always adjust the temp a bit on HERMS by tweaking the HLT temp for heat exchange. The only time I've ever insulated the mash tun is brewing outside when it's below freezing. it would be a shame to cover up that nice new blichmann.

Yeah, and cocaine is derived from a naturally occuring organism too, so it must be safe. Insecticidal soap kills insects by breaking down their mucous membranes and dehydrating or suffocating them, kind of like pouring salt on a slug. So, in contrast to spinosad, it is a contact killer. That is...