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Interested in the single probe. Thanks!

Interested in this as I brew in a basement with no vent hood. also new to this idea outside of distilling applications... So, two concerns... 1) What about pellet hops? I have a 15 gal SB kettle and I typically have a lot of head space as my batches are 5 gal. Would one put a large muslin...

Yeah I agree there's probably some scorching going on. Since using the element I get darker than expected wort too. However, from other threads I have read, there have been complaints of the same type of caked on funk on the element after brew. There is also beer stone formation on my kettle...

So far then what I'm thinking is best of both and maybe get a custom Spike kettle that has a triclamp port for an element. An additional benefit being the kettle is induction compatible. I can seal the element port when only using the induction.

yeah I currently have a controller setup for temp control with a 220 setup. I'm sure that would probably work just fine with any induction cooktop. The only issue I had wondered about was ramp times as compared to my 5500W element. I typically have a high boil off rate. I usually start with...

Sorry, if I’m posting something that has been widely discussed in another thread. I’m looking at getting a new pot and possibly going induction and seeking some advice. Over-all I want to decrease brew-day pre and post clean up time. Back story… I’ve been using a 15G AL pot with a 5500W...

I think I'm going to try to re-brew this same thing with maybe a different yeast. Also I think I may wait to re-brew until I have a filtration system (keg to keg). I may brew 10 gals and split the batch between different yeast and see what the result is.

Interesting. Well, for Christmas this year I was going to ask for a keg to keg filtration system anyways. So I'll test that and I'll also try a different yeast.

I believe it was domestic pils malt (Weyermann). I'm reaching PH (measured at room temp) of 5.2-5.4 (this one hovered around 5.39 for a majority of the mash) by using RO and salt adjustments. My water to grist ratio was 1.15 (I typically go for thick mashes for better eff.). I get very strong...

Well, for example this is one I just kegged. All grain version of this recipe. Only difference is that my local homebrew shop was out of carapils. So mine was 100% pilsener malt (SMASH). I ended up with 1.059 OG with right at 5 Gallons in the primary...

So for years now I have been brewing (what I would consider) OK beer in lighter & amber color styles. I feel I can pretty much nail Porters, Stouts, IPAs, and PAs. It's just been both lighter colored styles and amber styles that I typically have issues brewing and being happy with. My issue...

I'm bumping a 4 year old thread but... I have this same problem with all my lighter beer styles and it is not DMS (I do 90 min or greater boils on most of my beers and pitch cold). I have not figured it out yet but "Milky" is one way to describe the flavor (other ways to describe it: Chalky or...

oh wow yeah and another year since I saw this reply lol. Answer, no. I gave up on my root beer. Under the high psi for soda my perlick beer faucets were leaking and I didn't like the idea of needing to dedicate one beer line up for root beer. If I could make something like Iron Horse I...

count me in !!

I'm in!!

I'd pull a sample and taste. If it tasted good I'd probably leave it. Otherwise I'm not sure there will be much you can do to get that unstuck with a ferment that started at 1.113 short from putting some amylase in there and pitching the US-05. Stuck ferments can be hard to restart especially...

Typically that's what I do (skip it). Since I had the heat stick handy I was just going to try it and that's when the unfortunate event occurred. The only reason I left it sitting in there without stirring was because I was collecting a sample for pH test. Next time I probably won't bother...

Yes, I plan on eventually going with a RIMS system but the setup I'm waiting to build is a quite a bit more expensive than that. The heat stick was for minor adjustments and heating to mash-out. Thanks for the info. I might wrap with some copper wire. I wanted to build a straight one but...

I did a search and saw lots of people asking if this could happen but everything I read said they've never had issues. Well using my new heat stick for the first time on a brew day yesterday resulted in a melted mash tun. I'm running a 1500W 120V element. I was using it to heat my mash...

I haven't brewed this in quite a while, but as I recall it was good. Would be even better with a good bock water profile. This is not a clone of any specific beer though. It's just a mix of a few different recipes I've brewed before. This one does need to age a bit though before it shines.