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I ended up buying the weldless probe from the electric brewery, and nailed my strike temp on the first go. That seems pretty definitive that it was the well insulating my old probe.

I second that, but my experience is only on one brew with two ounces of hops.

Looks great, lot of good progress! Sucks that the floor is still giving you fits, that would drive me crazy. Can't wait to see that L shaped bar. [emoji57]

I took my connectors off and put them back on a few times while laying everything out and running wiring. Flexibility? You can get them in smaller packs at AutoZone or advance Auto parts.

I use a coat hanger and pull the false bottom after the mash.

I did my first run in a similar setup a week ago. 15 gallon ssbrewtech kettle with half of the mash water below the false bottom. I did recirculate the mash the entire time. I was messing around with temperature so I went about 90 minutes. Starch test came up negative at 90. I was shooting...

For sure, had the table rocking. I wanted to make sure I got as high a boil off as possible cause it was my first biab and my PBV was a lot higher than I expected. Energy savings aside, and other reason to go lower?

Yea sorry if I wasn't clear, that was my wet test, I did an actual brew last night and circulated during that on suggestions that the water needs to be stirred.

My probe is equidistant from the element and the drain, directly between them, and at the same height in the kettle. I think I'm ok with placement. Also, while heating the strike water I was running the pump and whirlpooling the water around in the kettle clockwise. That forces the water...

I tried the desitin cream and it wasn't a problem operating at that temperature. The probe was really slow to react both in the Thermowell with the cream and directly in the water. I think I need to get a new probe, maybe I'll go inline with the recirculation. I bought a T fitting just in...

Fired up the steamslayer today for the first time with my first brew on my electric rig. Things went pretty well, still have some fiddling to do with my temp probe. Also, forgot to put the steel wool behind my trub dam and whoops, whole hops don't go through pumps and whirlpool valves well...

Just the stuff I had on hand. [emoji57] #brickSh*tHouse

Response 29, rebooting a really old thread but here's how I rigged mine up. Old heavy bag bracket with 4 inch, 5/16 lag screws fastening it to the underside of the joist.

I think it's a good idea, good call on the silicon so it doesn't scratch.

I don't see why it wouldn't? What problems are you expecting?

I read a few places that desitin cream works really well. I am concerned however about the maximum temperature for that cream. Has anyone ever used that in a boil kettle? Most places I read cited it for use in a fermenter Thermowell.

@brundog what did you say the optimal temperature for the effluent liquid should be?

Ran my system last night and everything went really well, but I overshot my strike temp by roughly seven degrees. I've got a Thermowell run through the side of my kettle, and it's at the same height as my element and between the drain and the element. Photo attached. I've got a four inch...

Hey Crew! I'm looking to do a conversion of the Haier HNSE05SS (stainless model) and i have a question about how to ruin the gas lines. Does anyone else use this model or have DIT'd it? I found a few threads talking about there being no coolant lines in the top, score! That said, i need to...

I used a 42mm carbide tipped hole saw for both of my 1.5" TC bulkheads. It worked really well, just make sure you use cutting fluid, drill a pilot hole, and go slow. I wasn't interested in spending what the punch cost, way too expensive.