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The DSPR320 is the newer model at the same price (currently lower on sale). If you just need tight mash temp control and easy boil regulation, get the DSPR120, which I did. The 320 adds a programmable timer with mash step setting (I do it manually, its not a big deal), and output relays for...

A relay output is a dry-contact output. On PIDs they are typically single pole NO (normally open) contacts. Think of it as a switch that is triggered by the PID. You need to wire this switch in series with the load, i.e. your solenoid. Wire one OUTPUT terminal of a 24V DC transformer directly to...

The output voltage (going to the SSR) from the PID is 12VDC. Most SSRs have an LED that lights up indicating if it is getting input voltage. If this LED is on, and the SSR is not passing AC voltage, then you have a bad SSR. BTW, I think you have the PID in manual mode if you have the RUN light...

Brulosophy did an experiment on this very thing, doughing in at room temp, and raising the temp. The results definitely tend to favor pre-heating the strike water: http://brulosophy.com/2017/10/02/the-mash-single-infusion-vs-rising-temperature-exbeeriment-results/

This does not look like a 1/16 DIN unit. Here's one that will fit a 45x45 mm square 1/16 DIN cutout...

I have had a 3-vessel (15 gal) eHerms setup for 2 years, and have tried various positions for the probes, having finally settled on this: Mash: Control probe directly in HLT, 7" from bottom; Monitor probe directly in MT, 6.5" from bottom. Additional monitor probe on HERMS return on outside of...

Looks like MoreBeer is recalling Slingblade curved elements. Got an email from them a couple of days ago requesting I stop using it immediately due to a recently identified safety issue. They have offered to replace it (No ETA when new ones will be in stock) or refund purchase. AND they are...

I did worry about this, but then dismissed any concern after looking at RIMS. From my very limited knowledge, my understanding is that most of the enzymatic reaction is taking place in the grain bed. Alas, not an option for me, as the coil is maxed out in size, and I have no room for an extra...

Correction: Rookie mistake!! I forgot I was reading fermented wort when converting refractometer reading to gravity. Actual gravity was 1.009, which was as expected.

Just checked my decanted wort from a completed (24 hrs @74F on a stir plate) and refrigerated (24 hr) starter. Gravity was 1.018 - 50% attenuation. Final attenuation (Wyeast 3726 Farmhouse, 74-79%) should have been 1.008-1.009. Anyone know of a way to calculate growth rate based on apparent...

I hear ya! My option #1 is sort of RIMS with a CFC - it cannot get as hot, but sure beats regular HERMS.

I have been using a home-built 3-kettle eHERMS for a few years, and am very happy with it with one exception: Step-up mash temp changes take too long (15 gal HLT, 5.5kW element, 50'x1/2"OD coil). To improve this, I am thinking of one of the following two changes: Option #1: Use my stainless CFC...

Probably wise. Most plumbing literature will advise against using plastic female with metal male threaded fittings - the other way around is OK. Female fittings expand when tightened, and over time plastic stresses very differently than metal - it tends to fail suddenly and catastrophically.

I also contemplated installing a float switch, or a conductivity sensor (more involved circuit), but after considering the complexity of another cable with another hole in the kettle, and going with my ethos of Keep it Simple, I abandoned the idea. There is an old adage: "the best way to...

You have to be careful with overtorquing the Duotight flare nuts and cracking them. They do not need the plastic insert like the metal flare fittings do. If you make sure the inside flared surface is clean and scratch free, you can get a good seal on a male metal mating surface without excessive...

I've used the previous version from kegland ( https://www.williamsbrewing.com/DuoTight-In-Line-Regulator-P4404.aspx ) and it was a piece of junk. I also have the blowtie Spunding valve, which looks like it has the same plastic regulator parts as the newer one you refer to. I would go for a metal...

I'm in CA

I have had problems with both my Riptide and Chugger pumps cavitating while sending boiling wort through them. After talking with Bilchmann, I changed my process to sanitize the chiller by recirculating right after flameout for 2 minutes.

Agree 100% with Bobby_M. The DSPR120 is an amazing tool for the money. My main requirement for a controller was ease of use with tight mash temp control and simple boil control. Simplicity is key for me. All the other bells and whistles I do not use - built-in audible timers and flashing alarms...

Thanks augiedoggy! I tried bending it and got it to fit perfectly. I was also able to separate the touching segments.