Search results

There are many dual purpose hops that can be used for bittering and dry hopping. I have an old chart that I found in Brew Your Own that I use for reference. I'm sure you could Google hop characteristics and find many that you can use for bittering and aroma.

I'm at exit 312 - 40/42 area. Two miles from that exit, actually off Benson Hwy/50.

We should get together and brew sometime. Benson is close to where I live (Garner). I've been brewing for a long time in years, but typically only do one or two batches a year. Sounds like you're already more advanced than me on the post-brew equipment side.

It's probably not ruined, but I've heard if you dry hop for too long it can give the beer a "stemmy" taste. Some people dry hop for as little as three days. I like to dry hop mine from 5 - 7 days.

He's an IPA dry hopped with Simcoe and Target.

I don't always take a gravity reading because the ABV "is what it is." However, it can be useful in letting you know that the beer is finished fermenting.

Most of them I would buy, but I've made a few that were god-awful.

I've had five of them since last Wednesday. It was really good, but a little overrated at 100, I think.

I've done a few DIPAs and I used about 98% 2 row pale malt and I've even made one batch with 100%. I like to keep the grain bill simple. For a DIPA, I use about 3 oz of bittering hops - one at first boil (usually the most bitter one - Magnum, etc.) and the other two around :30. The I dry hop the...

I sometimes fantasize about opening a brewery that sells baked goods - a beerkery. I make awesome carrot cakes, pond cakes, zucchini bread, etc. My beer's pretty good too.

I usually do move my beer to a secondary prior to dry hopping, but after reading a few comments here, I decided to dry hop in my primary on my current batch.

Wild yeast, I assume? Should be interesting.

I like it, but it would be better as an imperial IPA. If it was around 9 to 10% ABV, it would be fantastic.

Amazon.com is your friend. You might also try Wal-Mart.

Don't know exactly. I didn't add anything to cool it down - just opened the lid and stirred a lot. It wasn't a constant 168; it was gradually lowering to the target 155. That process took an hour. It tasted good, but I'd never be able to duplicate it again if I wanted to.

That's an interesting question based on what actually happened. My target mash temperature was 155 for 1:15. I intentionally over shot it, knowing that the temp can be lowered a whole lot easier than it can be raised if the water isn't hot enough. It took a LONG time to get down from 168 to 155...

1. Wyeast 1056 American Ale smack pack. 70 degrees to ferment, 60 degrees to dry hop. 2. OK. 3. OK. 4. I always drop hop in a secondary after fermentation is complete.

I normally transfer to the secondary when the airlock stops bubbling, but I decided to let it go a day or two longer based on something I read here at this site. I'll go ahead and transfer it tomorrow after work and see what happens after that.

I brewed an imperial IPA on Saturday, March 19. The beer has been in the primary for nine days and the airlock has stopped bubbling. My OG was 1.086 and I just took a gravity reading to see where it stands. The current gravity is 1.034. After doing the math, I'm coming up with 6.8% ABV. It...

I like lots of different genres of music and beer and music seem to go hand-in-hand. I like prog metal and two of my favorite bands just released albums - Redemption - "The Art of Loss" and Circus Maximus - "Havoc." I like a lot of old R&B like Luther Vandross, Earth, Wind and Fire, etc. I also...