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Taste it and find out :D

Don't be a sissy? :D You're the one that said a sack of Briess is $75 + shipping at NB. He was pointing out he doesn't see that price.....

Sounds delicious, let us know how it turns out

I made a double batch of Centennial Blonde, did half with Nottingham and the other half I wanted to try with a Belgian yeast, actually got the limited run of Wyeast's Canadian Belgian and used that. The Belgian though, unfortunately developed my first infection (used the bottling bucket...

This isn't a bad idea, really. I know there has been talk for a long time about hop utilization and how full volume boils are the best. It might take a few batches to dial it in exactly as you do the full volume recipe. I did do this a month or two ago with the Centennial Blonde ale, I wanted to...

Looks like break material from the boil. A lot of proteins and stuff. Don't worry too much, it'll all settle to the bottom. Some think it may actually be decent yeast nutrients as well

I tried mine after probably more than a week... Still tasted very young. I did however do a simple dry Irish stout that used Wyeast 1335 British Ale II. Grain to glass in one week, and it tasted great, had it in time for my brother's visit and he really liked it. He also got me into brewing...

Are you doing any bittering hops? Anything in the boil?

I don't think he was saying extract itself is the issue.... he was saying DreBourbon's method here was not producing optimal results: As in, he was suggesting not doing a no-boil method using only pre-hopped extract. I would have to agree, if you want quality beer you should at least be...

No dry hopping? I would suggest moving 10 minutes to 5, 5 to flameout, and take those 5oz of hops and dry hop them after fermentation. Maybe even 2oz for a couple days and 3oz for a couple more before packaging. That should add a lot more fresh hop character to your brew

One degree isn't going to make a huge difference. But 150 and going down to 148 sounds fine for an IPA, you generally want very fermentable and dry. Yeah for sure, opening the mash tun is going to allow more heat to escape. However, opening it 4+ times and only losing 2 degrees doesn't sound...

The problem with almost all hot sauces is they are vinegar based. Great on food, not so good in beer. You could probably jump throw a squirt in to a beer and find out how it works, but AFAIK people haven't had good results. What passedpawn said is a better idea

I love Psych, such a silly fun show

Very generous to always fill friend's growlers for them :mug: Where do you buy your grain in bulk? I haven't looked around too much locally yet. I asked one of my two home brew stores, he said a sack of grain is 15% off regular price, and his prices aren't super cheap, although he does tend...

Since primary fermentation is done, you could easily raise it to 70 or 72 to encourage it to really finish up.

Dang, triple IPA, I'd be excited to give it a try :mug:

Although 60 is pretty standard, I don't think I've ever seen someone say that 90 minutes is too long.... why is that?

Wow... I read #4 and was all ready to quote you right there and be like "You know what buddy...." Then I read #5 and was like.... well... that's one opinion.. Then I read #6 :ban: Well played, good sir

It probably depends on the yeast calculator, as the Safale dry packs are said to have ~200 billion cells, but some calculators suggest much less. I've also read that if you don't rehydrate with water that that count can be cut by as much as 50%. I don't know exactly what to say about yeast...

Although many people still direct pitch dry yeast into the wort and seem to get fine results (I did it in a blonde ale not too long ago), it also doesn't take very long to rehydrate... water in a vial or cup, swish it around for 10 or 20 minutes... Doesn't that sort of depend on the gravity?