Search results

Correct. I has never worked with the nitro stout which also surprised me. I did confirm that the current stout is a new batch but nothing was intentionally nor accidentally changed that I am aware of.

So I own a craft brewery in Hendersonville, NC and we have been pouring black and tans (half and half) with my pale ale and stout, not nitro stout, but now they won't layer. It's very possible that the stout is a new batch but I'm not certain.Even if it is a new batch it tastes the same. Any...

Well I swapped out the PID with one from another panel that I knew worked fine and everything worked great so It was a bad PID.

Yes, the jumper wire is installed. As far as I can tell everything is wired correctly but I'll take another look before I order a new one.

Yes, the jumper is installed.

Yes, that's set correctly.

I just wired up a Mypin TA4 with an RTD and it's reading over 500 degrees F when it should be reading room temp. This isn't my first time wiring one of these so I'm pretty sure everything is correct. I even tried different RTD and wire but it didn't fix it. What could be causing it to be that high?

Thanks, this is very useful. I recently watch all of this guys videos on Youtube and they were very informative.

.001 seems to be a useful starting point. When I use this number as the starting cell count in BeerSmith it tells me I need a 1.8L starter which falls in line with the typical 2L starter for a higher gravity (1.068 in this case) 5 gal. batch.

I don't even come close to that much slurry in a 2L starter. In fact, compared to the pitchable packs from White Labs I only have a fraction of what in them. Maybe they put a lot more cells in their packs to account for the loss during the 6 month shelf life.

Does anyone know of a calculator to determine how big of a starter to make when making one from a slant? I've been just making starters based off the size I would make if I were using liquid yeast but I don't know if that's correct.

I use this one for just about everything. They are very easy to wire and there's even YouTube videos that explain it. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00OXPE8U6/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

Here's one on Amazon with a 2" TC ferrel. All you need to do is attach the cord which is very easy to do. I bought the Hot Pod from Brewers Hardware a few years ago and they've worked great. Changing the element is very east to do if you burn one out, which you will most likely do eventually...

Are you sure you even need a HERMS? A well insulated 1bbl mash tun will hold temps very well making the HERMS unnecessary. I built a 1/2bbl HERMS and after only a few brews I realized I would be better off insulating the mash tun. It took way to long to raise temps with the HERMS so if you...

What about the D2450-10? The only difference I see is that the -10 turns on instantaneously and the D2450 turns on at zero cross. Whatever that means? https://www.zoro.com/crydom-solid-state-relay-3-to-32vdc-50a-d2450-10/i/G2098625/

I'm looking at Crydom SSRs on Zoro and the have some that are reasonably priced. What kind of switch does it need to be?

Then I need 240V. L1 goes to the SSR and L2 goes to a coil relay. They both go to the element.

So far I've been using SSRs that are rated for 24-380VAC output since it's a 240V panel but since only one leg of the 240v (120V) runs to the SSR could I use SSR's rated for 120V output? if so that would make sourcing good ones easier.

That one requires AC input so it won't work with my PIDs.