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Some famous beer person, (can't remember who) said that, balance is when complexibility meets drinkability. I guess that works well enough. I think what your calling for is a little restraint. Craft breweries can hardly restrain themselve these days. Personaly I wish people would take it slow...

Ok. So in the interest of not having another poisonous thread. Here is my constructive contribution: Use a bucket with a spigot as a primary. (many of you already have this) Gently purge the head space of the bucket with co2 when you can. Drain the bucket as you dare. You could use a...

Really? Adam Selene

"Isn't there a pile of dead yeast there also?" Have you ever used a siphon? Cheers --Adam Selene

Probably not. Cheers. --Adam Selene

Anecdodaly, I would start with 50g or even a little less (maybe half as much as that actualy) oak chips. In 5 gallons. A little goes a long way. It's fast acting, so it doesn't take long to notice a change in flavour. Remember, you can always add more the next day, but you can't take it out...

This is one of those things that I have never been able to figure out. Every one wants to do a yeast starter-- nessesary or not. No one wants to do a secondary??? That makes sense, let's have a good vigorus start, and then do our best to undermine that start by letting the beer sit on a pile of...

Yeah. John Palmer is the man. His clunky website is still better than any NEW book that I have read. Otherwise, find a book by Dave Line. Way out of date, but way better than Papasian. (any addition) Cheers. --Adam Selene

For 19L: Pilsner malt 12.5# carapils/dextrine malt 0.4# For 23L: 15#, then 0.5# For 1 gallon:... 3.8L (aprox) too lazey to do the math. Newtral high atenuating ale yeast, of your choice. Cheers. --Adam Selene

It's a usefull skill to have if your strike goes horribly wrong. Haveing said that, I haven't done one in about seven years. I do remember that adding water to the decoction helps atchive a more even temprature, if you can't pull out enough wort without drying the grain bed. Just enough so...

This may not be your cup of tea, but over time I'v fallen into the habbit of front loading body with barley flakes, and mashing on the cold side. No mash out. Good long slow sparge. The usual result is a dry beer that has texture, without the sweetness. Even if you mash on the hot side I would...

I would guess tannin. but that it comes on gradualy makes me wonder if it's some exotic anarobic infection. *shrugs --Adam Selene

Sure. If it's as clean as the glass you will drink out of. Adam Selene

I would omit the roast barley, but 7.5lb of DME, ouce of northern brewer. Should be fine. Adam Selene

2oz roast barley will make it plenty red. If your Target(the hop) is 9% you will get *something like 30 IBU. If your Target is 12% you will get *something like 40 IBU. * assumeing a few things, and you will never know for sure unless you get it tested. Sure, carapils. Adam Selene

I have speculated also, that the obssetion with yeast starters might have something to do with poor sanitation habbits that people generaly have, but aren't aware of. The beer suddenly tastes better. No kidding. I agree, "studies say", or "BOOKS!" isn't an argument. Adam Selene

Howtobrew is good. Disolve the LME and DME into solution together, but take extra care with the LME as it likes to stick to the bottom of the pot, and it could scorch. Adam Selene

Bottle it anyway. It's practice if nothing else. Flat beer right out of the fermentor can taste misleading sometimes. If it was sour enough you would be sure. Adam Selene

Well, firstly doing starters sideways is always a bad idea. I would sanitise a yogurt container and set aside part of that. In the fringe, the lid will bulge, slowly venting gas. No problem. Adam Selene

Just fish some out with a wine thief or a turkey baster and taste/smell it. If it reminds you of rotten milk, then don't bottle it. Adam Selene