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juices that fllow

well we can't let it end here:mug:

You could go to a scrap metal place and ask about beer kegs. You could get one for around 30-40 bucks. then use a grinder with a zip disk to cut out the hole yourself. I found a welder locally who installed a fitting for the valve for about 25 dollars. Thats a nice 15 gallon stainless steel...

310t please. thanks for another shot:mug:

Beer Type: Scottish Ale Batch Size: 5 IBUs: 14 Color: 12 Original Gravity: 1.059 Amount of Oak Used: 4oz american oak med toast chips Time beer spent in contact with Oak: 74 Did you soak Oak in distilled spirit?: no Results: 2.5-3

how about a package of med toast american "chips" from LHBS 4 Oz not sawdust for 8-10 weeks had nice oak character in my Scottish Ale oak was there in spades try that I think it would be very complimentary.:mug:

OH OH OH Pick me :ban: ITC 310 T

leave the pot open and get a better burner and go to five gallons:rockin:

Say Yes Sir no Sir three bags full Sir! Then give em half of what you used to do.:D

first choice lincoln or miller second choice esab. Stick with 220v machine, maybe just a good quality MIG machine. MIG can weld steel aluminum and stainless with correct filler wires and gasses when your ready. TIG welding will take a lot of practise and welding fittings onto kegs will...

My Mother has water like that and we recently tried a little experiment with the water because it smells bad too. Put some water in a pitcher and leave it out overnight, the next day the water should be pleasant to drink. Don't know if thats going to work for you but it surprised us. I guess...

I live in Canada too, although Southern Ontario. I've got a Coleman Extreme cooler and only brew till late fall but heres a couple simple ideas for ya. Pre heat the cooler throw a gallon of boiling water in for 10-15 min before you do your strike. drain out pre heat water and start...

After I ran the tubing through the bung I shoved the clean and dry bung in from the inside really hard I've taken it out and put it back in several times with no difficulties or leaks etc

No sir no silicone nothin Bung seals all on it own just like on a carboy sealed

Bung, tubing and plastic thingy that has adjustable flow, cheap enough for me:mug: A little soap on the tubing will get it to slide perfectly through hole in bung.

Silversmith brewery in Virgil about 15 - 20 min from the falls they make their own beers and they're tasty too:mug: I've personally checked them out and would recommend a taste there:)

I built a coil in my cooler mash tun and recirculated water from my HLT through coil in cooler as well. I have found that raising temperature of grain bed is a slow process. Recirculating 200 degree water the grain itself takes a long time to heat up and heat from coil doesn't spread quickly...

When you are going to spray them lay them out very close together and in the same orientation. Then when you spray from the sides the overspray is covering the next part. if all parts are laid out on some long pieces of round bar or angle iron you can flip all pieces and paint the other side...

How about spider web inside air intake? Also discovered that wide open air intake not necessarily the best setting as it will vary with gas flow:mug:

Sometimes I will jam the stopper down without the airlock in it and once stuffed down then I'll put the airlock in. This way just lets the bung compress more before inserting airlock. Like Yooper said though, its easy to dry both parts and your off to the races:mug: