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in 1998 I was 18 and in Mass. you only needed to be 18 to Home Brew but 21 to buy Beer. So I made my own.:mug:

I believe unless you were sour mashing to achieve low Final beer PH (sour) you shouldn't go by anyone else's Recipe. It's used in Mashing to achieve Desired mash PH mostly in Grain bills with low acidity (pale Malts) If you dont know what your Mash PH is without it you really have no idea how...

I guess you feel not one person has stopped buying AB because of Craft Beer....maybe I'm not seeing the argument Here. Do you think they would rather try to impersonate a Craft brewery "shock top" or do you think they would rather make craft beer seem "lame" and pull people back to AB?...It...

That is very close to the Grain Bill I use for my Hop showcase Beers. (I do swap Flaked oats for Flaked barley at the same % sometimes And I use Munich instead of vienna) I guess some would consider them "unbalanced" But I like IPA's dry as a bone with huge Hop aroma and Flavor. Mash Low and Go...

That would make sense..Evaporating wort to a powder without scorching. I think the only way to do it is to mash hop and FWH then "evaporate" under vacuum to desired Gravity. One of the things I noticed Putting water in a vacuum at room temp is that when you take it out of the vacuum its ICE...

Thought about boiling Wort under Vacuum at room temp and seeing if you get any Hop Bitterness. But Heat is necessary to kill bacteria and for Hop utilization so It's most likely a bad idea.

I may be in the Minority but to obtain any Hop aroma that i would consider to be "BIG" I use up to 8oz of Dry Hop and 3oz of steep/whirpool. Usually 3oz Steep 6oz dry hop in primary post Fermentation and 2oz Dry hop in keg.

Hoppy Red Ale is on deck for the weekend. Gonna Try Nugget, Simcoe and Mosaic.

I believe you just need Firestone ball lock Connectors a gas and a liquid out and your good to go.

Interesting.. Not sure if you use leaf or pellet but I've had good luck with leaf although I've had trouble getting the hops I want in leaf....maybe a fine mesh SS cylinder with cap that is slightly smaller than the opening that can be placed in and put to the side of the spear...Just a thought...

Yeah I put a small pipe clamp on the PRV post and just hang a hop bag from it using the pull string on the bag. cinched up it hangs about 3/4 of the way down the keg. I have never used pellets in the keg. 2oz of leaf swell up and never become an issue at the dip tube..i could see pellets...

How do you get a bag of Hops in a sanke Keg? Just curious. Do they make sanke kegs with a removable lid? Or do you take the whole dip tube assembly apart?

Mosaic Single Hop IPA. Valley 2-row and 2lbs of Flaked oats. American Ale yeast. 10oz of Mosaic in this One.

True. I guess the Credit for Industrial way goes to Allagash (I'm ashamed that I never went to Allagash all the times I've been there) Although I would like get my hands on some of their coolship series beers. I was extremely impressed with Austin Street last time I was up there. they have...

Yup! Thought the SAME thing..Hope the Move to the point doesn't hurt the vibe there...Whos knows maybe foundation and or Austin street will be joining them in a few years.

Foundation Brewing, Austin Street Brewing And Bissell Brothers are literally in the same building...Its actually been a good thing for all Breweries.

Ward labs,Carbon Block and Bru'n water. It makes a world of difference IMO. 40$ for the testing and around that same amount for a Carbon Block.

Right On. Yeah I'm always shooting for the low end 5.2 to try and get my Final beer PH in the mid 4s but wanted to try Mashing in different ranges but feared my post Boil PH would be higher in result... I'll have to just try it and see what happens.

Just curious about your target Mash PH being 5.4-5.45. What is your reasoning for wanting the higher end of the acceptable range. What benefits do you gain and where does that leave your Post boil PH?