Search results

Buna-N has low permeability if you can find an o-ring large enough. Just make sure it is food grade.

Once the siphon starts you can turn the regulator's pressure very low. Assuming the keg is at a lower level than the fermenter.

I've been learning this the hard way recently as I recently added a Blichmann auto sparge and lost about 5% efficiency. I used to drain the mash until grains were exposed and then using a basic sparge diffuser would fill sparge water on top of the grain bed. Then I switched to the auto sparge to...

I'd unplug everything, especially the controller from the wall/240v source and grab a screwdriver and tighten everything up. Check the wires for solid connections.

Skip a fridge controller and an industrial PID meant to heat 10,000 gallons and buy a controller actually designed for brewing like the EZBoil. I am an industrial maintenance repairman and have worked as an industrial electrician and the EZBoil is the best designed brewing controller for the money.

3/8" John Guest to 1/2"MNPT 3/4" GHT Female x 1/2" NPTF Female You'll need to either change your fitting on your condenser to a 3/4" GHT Male x 1/2" NPTF Male or make a double female ended garden hose.

I stopped doing secondary about 5 years ago. That was the biggest improvement I've made in my 22 years of homebrewing. My pale ales and IPAs stopped losing aroma and hops flavor, as well as staying a nice golden color. I don't even put sours in secondary anymore. Just keg after a few months and...

Why siphon into another fermenter?

Regrading temperature drop: Are you doing full volume mash, or are you sparging/rinsing your grain bag after mashing? When I did BIAB I had much less temperature drop when I did full volume mashing.

Michael Tonsmire (the Mad Fermentationist) from Sapwood Cellars Brewing cold sparges. He does it in this video:

At the 20 second point:

Make sure to store your meter upright, don't store it laying on it's side.

Commercial version of a boil condenser: (EDIT: 8 minutes into video)

If it’s a temp probe/cable combo from Auber then one of the wires in the connector housing has come undone from the solder. All of my cables from Auber have had this happen. It’s frustrating during a brew day, but an easy fix if you have small soldering iron.

Actually, I found one for $10 on Amazon Union Electric Dogbone RV Power Adapter Cord Extension, 12 Inch 12AWG/3 Cord, 125/250V, for RV Moterhome, Boats & Trailers (15A Male to 30A Female, 12") https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07HDSHRWX/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

You could make that by purchasing a 120v 12awg 15A extension cord cut off the receptacle end and wiring a 240v receptacle to the end for less than half that price.

Although it took you a year, I appreciate when someone posts they solved the problem and what the solution was.

Would you mind sharing a link for that flow meter? Thanks in advance.

Is True Attenuation what most brewing software calculates? I had always assumed it was Apparent Attenuation. Previously (for about the last 20 years) I've always been within a couple digits of what brewing software, and what my own math before I used software, predicted for Final Gravity.

Well apparently my research was insufficient. I found this article about the woman who shared her yeast with Omega and some people measured her ale at 1.0025 "Canadian homebrewers tasting it found they couldn't agree on whether it was sweet or not, so in the end they measured the final gravity...