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I guess that is true if you look just at the thread age. The main points are Installing a controller readout built-in, right in the front of the keezer Avoiding the bulk and cost of a controller plug box, that most other seem to recommend. It seems very possible to put a tap in the front...

Yes, the meter was running all the time, inlcuding when i tapped out beer. I only opened it for beer about 2 times per day. I think daytripper has the reason - the cold air does not fall out. But studies show (Calif. Energy Commission or U.S. Dept of Energy) that even for normal fridges with...

They do not decide my personal ethics either, but their rules to avoid conflict of interest that could affect the truth of a review is common sense.

Here are two reviews. Do they impact you differently? Reviewer #1: "CHI is a good company to do business with." Reviewer #2: "CHI is a good company to do business with, and they are giving me 5% off for writing a positive review." Does it make any difference if Reviewer #1 got a $500 credit...

I was sad to get this from CHI. They seem good except for this. After my order they emailed this to me. I had a satisfactory experience, except for this email. I guess this is common and I need to get used to it. Bribes are everywhere. edit: CHI is this company: http://www.chicompany.net/

I am very interested. I saw some 1/8" barb fittings on the internet and Amazon. I am all for avoiding excessive beer line length, when the length is not needed for anything except to give more pressure drop. Bobby M helped me with this with his thread...

Assuming frequency is constant 60 hz, for inductive load, like a motor, current goes down for lower voltage. Maybe you are thinking of the stop or start condition, and not a constant frequency.

Feel if cold is leaking out anywhere: slowly and carefully move your hand around the fridge, especially door seals and all around the collar and collar edges. Slight leaks are serious because they leak 24/7. Check if your factory insulation is working good: touch with your hand and palm and...

I saw your thread- Danby "Kegerator won't stay cold". Try to make sure your problem is the controller before you try another controller. If it is the controller, why not get the factory replacement? If you still want a STC controller, the STC is very good and low cost. With a keezer...

This unit is consuming very little electricity. The average it uses is 14 watts, meaning it uses the same watts as something running continuously at 14 watts. I measured this with my kill-a-watt meter http://www.p3international.com/products/p4400.html It says for the last 1900 hours (79 days)...

Disagreeing with fbold1: Heating efficiency is the heat energy output divided by the electric energy input. The efficiency for electric resistance heating is always 100%, whether it is a heater, or a light bulb used as a heater, regardless of the voltage. The capacity of the heater is...

CHI is the best source I've found for 3/16" BevSeal Ultra.

I tried it. I used 6.5 feet. Keg is at 14 psi. Works very good with my party faucet. Where the 3/16 bev tube is over this 0.17 tube I used worm gear clamps. It was difficult to determine how much to tighten. I over-tightened initially and caused lots of foam. I loosened it a bit, now it...

With my 1.75 lid I feel confident it would work. The drawing I posted gave me more confidence. With 0.25 less I would not feel confident. How old is your fridge? Does anyone cover their taps with insulation when not used? I was thinking a clamshell styrofoam with carved hollow.

Mr. Bobby, thanks for this great idea and the photos. I am going to try this. The parts are incredibly cheap, $3 for 25' poly hose 1/4"OD from most local hardware stores, $3 for four clamps from the local auto parts store. I looked at buying 10 feet of 1/8" ID Tygon Silver and some barbed...

Rootvonroot: what did you do? Did you find adapters? I want to use 1/8" ID Tygon silver with my keg and party tap.

The hole for the shank is supposed to be 1" dia to give some clearance. My lid is 1.75" thick over all. I suspect newer more efficient freezers have thicker insulation and maybe thicker lids. My freezer is about 10 year old.

Regarding the Tygon Silver: if you want a shorter beer line, why not use the 1/8" ID ? Is it not mentioned because it is difficult to get size adapters so it fits equipment connections? Is it relatively flexible when it is cold? Is it as flexible as silicone tube, or standard vinyl beer line...

I was hoping to get more interest in people doing taps and temp controllers in the front edge of the lid. No collar. No control boxes. I am also interested in low kilowatt hours.

Matt2d is correct. Another way to say it is: The unit includes an automatic switch between 7 and 8. Power is wired to 7, then the switch determines if the power gets thru to 8 (to the keezer). If the switch is closed the power gets thru, if the switch is opened the power does not get thru...