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I have a spare 5# CO2 tank and I was thinking it might be nice to put it in my fridge with a little 15L keg. I know they have those little taps that can take the little pellet gun style CO2 cartridges but that's pretty irritating. Is there a kit out there to use to convert to something usable?

Well, that would really mess with it's ability to hold in temp. The lid is designed to keep the temp in. While you still have to insulate the collar I wouldn't think it would help the integrity of the freezer to remove the lid. There's also power going to my lid for the light but that's not...

It depends on several factors. I managed to cut down my moisture in there by putting the temp sensor in a beer bottle filled with water. That prevented the coils from kicking on so often and that greatly improved my humidity situation. As for the bilge fan I would definitely say that's a...

That one's not big enough. For a 1/2" weldless ball valve you need a 7/8" hole.

Yeah, that bit I posted is exactly the one I have. I may need to re-sharpen it and start using some drill lube and/or slow WAY down.

I'm setting up a HERMs electric build. To that end I'm needing to drill out holes in some kegs. I started out using a punchout bit like this one. It stopped working about 3/4 of the way into the second hole. Then I got a 7/8" bit which hasn't had much better luck. What should I be doing...

I understand that you can drain from the bottom but I don't see how the wort doesn't come out with it. Maybe if there was... nope. I got nothing.

I thought one of the advantages to conical fermenters was being able to drain the yeast/trub out. Honestly I don't know how it would work in a normal one but I really don't know how it would work here.

I can't take credit for this but does it look like it would do the job? A guy in my LBC came up with it and it SEEMS like the idea is sound but... The tub comes from www.spraysmarter.com. It's 15 gallons for a hair under $60

Yeah, last thing in the world I want to do is jump in the middle of a forum fight but the internet is one of the absolute worst ways to communicate. There is SO much room for misinterpretation and so little ability to properly convey anything other than very literal meanings. That being...

I don't know what amperage you're needing for the pumps but Radio Shack sells step down transformers for between $3 and $15 for 12v or 24v and a wide range of amperages. Then you just need to connect the output to a bridge rectifier and presto you have your stepdown/AC to DC cheap and...

OK, my design nerve is tickled. I'm using a 10g round igloo cooler for a MT, it will be mounted on my rig about 4' off the ground. With all that being said, would I benefit from this or at that scale of brewing and with a mash tun that light am I going to need a tippy dump or would I likely be...

I'm kind of looking at this myself so *subscribed* On a side note, round cooler? box cooler? model? I imagine there would be differences depending on the particular cooler.

Ohhhhh, I get you. I am on the verge of all grain brewing so that hadn't occurred to me.

What is the point of this? The rigs all look great but I don't understand the application.

Nah, shouldn't be an issue. I plan on limiting myself to 10g batches. So even with the extra water to cover what will boil off in that stage I should be fine.

Hey, if it works then it works. My thing was more that I WON'T brew outside and I can only brew in the kitchen when no one else is at home. So rather than fight the Mrs. for more brew time I thought I'd just set up a full on rig in my man cave. And if I don't have a set up that is relatively...

Haha! Sorry about that. I'm actually transitioning from stove top 5-6 gallon batches to HERMS electric using two half barrel 15 gallon kegs for HLT and boil kettle and a 10gallon igloo for my MT. I forget that all electric isn't the same because I'm an idiot :)

Yes, it will be HERMS. When I say too hot/cold I just mean if I leave the HLT element on/off too long then that would adversely effect the mash temp as it runs thru the heat exchanger. I'm not a total absentee brewer but if something comes up with the kid or door or whatever and I come back...

This is the advice I'm mostly getting. I'd love opposing/alternate viewpoints. I had considered initially hooking up the boil element to a PID in order to have a little less vigorous boil. EDIT: I take it back. It has not been suggested that I let the HLT element run. I'll probably go ahead...