Recent content by Yoss

Found this on CL. If anyone already has a kitchenaid it might be a good way to mill your own grain. https://anchorage.craigslist.org/app/4991582413.html

New set of o-rings for the keg A length of CO2 line (3-4 feet) with the proper disconnect to fit over the gas post (the gas and liquid are diffrent disconnect fittings, its easy to see on a pin lock, but harder to see on a ball lock. Ball locks are usualy grey for gas and black for liquid.) A...

You control your duty cycle with your differential setting. If you want more cycles simply change your differential to 0.5 degrees. Then you can have your temperature probe display the actual beer temperature, not somthing with a fudge factor applied to it. And I already explained above how the...

I guess we'll have to agree to disagree. While the fudge factor is small many homebrewers are obsessed with being as accurate and precise as reasonably possible. Sticking a piece of foam on top of the probe to get a more accurate temperature is pretty reasonable. Its such a cheap and easy...

Good point, I'll give you that one.

Wynne-R, For big adjustments I agree with you that manual control is the most energy efficient because its hard not to overshoot with an on-off control system and a large temperature change. As for the best results once you have reached your target temperature, its tricky because there is no...

Cooling caused the pressure drop on your high pressure gauge, then when you shut your tank off the CO2 continued to dissolve into the beer. Turn your CO2 back on and relax.

No, your fine. Just make sure you didnt damage your O-ring. And spray down all your connections with star-san or soapy water to check for leaks.

The idea is to use your beer's temperature to control the ambient temperature. To do that you need to isolate your beer temperature from the ambient. The initial fermentation puts out quite a bit of heat, so your beer might be 2-5 degrees warmer than ambient. The best way to isolate is probably...

Mike, Do you know what wattage your heater is? Are you using any additional insulation? Do you have a fan in there? You must occasionally hit -20F so if it works for you I may give it a go, I just dont want to undersize my heater and have a disaster. Thanks in advance for any info.

off topic, but how did you tie it to the inside of the keg lid? Mine are all smooth on the inside.

Once you find a lid that seals with a keg keep them paired, I have some that just don't mix and match well. If you continue to have trouble take it to your LHBS, they should have some you can try and buy right at the store if they aren't too stingy with their CO2. I find they are more willing...

I was looking at trying to put a chest freezer fermentation chamber outside in the winter (down to -20 F here is not unusual) and just heating the inside of it. Sounds like you aren't just going to stick it outside like I wanted to, but I'll tell you what I got out of my research anyway. If...

Hopefully I didn't misunderstand your post, but it sounds like you only had the CO2 connected for about 10 minutes. It takes time for the CO2 to dissolve in the beer, way more than 10 minutes. Read this. I suggest you use the "set and forget" method, its the best and easiest IMHO.

check for spiders and stuff in the jets/orifice.