Recent content by TBLbrewer

It suddenly hit me, with a 12" rod, the ball will have to move much further to close the valve than it did with the 6" rod. My solution. The wing nut allows me to make sure it is locked in a vertical orientation.

Got mine today. $8.00.

Here is my hybrid gas/electric BCS controlled 2 Tier.

I contacted Blichmann about a longer float valve rod for my Auto Sparge. This was the response: "We just got our new, longer rods in at the end of last week. We have a nine inch, part number BE-00259, and a twelve inch, part number BE-000260 available. If you contact your retailer they will be...

http://wiki.embeddedcc.com/index.php/BCSfinder_Utility

I recirculate through my boil kettle through out the mash, using a BCS 460 controlled heating element to maintain the mash temp. I then raise the temp to mash out, and average 73% efficiency. I think I would have higher efficiency, but I seem to be getting some channeling along the edges of...

Good news! I changed the connections for my thermocouples and the float valve. This seems to have solved the problem I was having.

I think I know what is happening. I'm using 1/8 inch mono head phone jack as the panel connection for my temp probes, and for the float switch connection. This means one leg of each of the 5 volt DC connections is in contact with the metal box. The metal box is ground as is the kettle. So I...

That is a possibility.

I used an SSR from my smoker to replace the heater element SSR. That worked. I pulled the ignitor out of the box. I fired up the kettle element, let it run for a few minutes, and then fired up the burner. It still kicked off the kettle SSR. The only thing I can figure is that the kettle is...

I think your right. I could simply use a push button wired to the ignitor in place of the push button that is stock on the ignitor. Here are a few pics of the ignitor and my control box.

Definitely high voltage Arc. If I were to place a steel gang box over it, an connect a ground wire to the box, would this make it safe to have in the box?

My system is hybrid gas/electric system. I'm running a 1650 watt 110 volt element. I designed it to use the propane at a very low setting to speed up heating, and maintain a boil. So, here's the issue. I installed a push button battery operated ignitor in the control panel, and ran the wires out...

Thank you! I thought something was wrong with the way I had wired it. I feel much better now.

I'm using 120volt neon indicator lights in my control panel. They are hooked up after the ssr to indicate when power is being supplied. For some reason they are always on. They do get brighter when the ssr closes, but are lit dimly before. What would cause this?