Recent content by spotter

To balance the CO2 with that setup you'd need around 25' at 12PSI. Add more line, or check out the sticky on swizzles. The Nitro with a stout faucet doesn't matter, the restrictor in the faucet should take care of it.

Most large building supply place sell 6' lengths for insulating pipes (my lowes keeps it near the ventilation supplies). It has an open seam so it slips over the bundle. I used the thickest one, which happens to have a self adhesive seam. Those are nice if you need to wrap a wide bundle of...

Curious about this, are you going to be condensing the glycol? If so, can you share details? How many lines are you running? You're right to focus on balancing the system- the happiness you get will be enough to offset minor price differences. A few key things: - Gravity is helping...

I don't have any experience with the swizzles, but I think your line is just too short for those pressures. My testing showed the bev-seal added about .45 psi resistance/ft, so you'd need around 42' to push at 20 PSI. I use 26' at 12-14 PSI with few problems. I do tend to keep it closer to...

I've not done a ton of line balancing on different systems, but I have do have a balanced setup with 20' runs, about 12' of which is outside my fridge, and my advice is based on my research and setup. You'll need 1/4" line, but due to the extra PSI to push up, I'd recommend a low resistance...

Pics please, I'm definitely interested if it's narrow enough.

This is all great advice. Modified #3: Instead of the metal skin, drill through the plastic from the inside (which is easier anyway), then probe. The reason is the coils use the metal skin to dissipate heat, and are right up against the skin, sometimes attached to it, so it's pretty easy...

Great summary. As an owner of the 575ss I'll add: #4, there is more to clean, which makes cleaning a tad more of a chore. I know #2 is real (I posted about this before, so I'm probably confirming my own post) but after having them 6+ months I can say it's pretty rare especially since you...

I ordered 500' of the bev-seal, used what I needed, and am selling cut to length @$.25/ft + $10 shipping (a bit more if you get over 75'). I think I have about 200' left. PM me if interested.

Should work great, I have flush mount taps. Something to consider if you have drywall is removing the kitchen side so you have a 4" recessed area. Finish it, add a small shelf / drip tray at the bottom, it looks great, trust me. Bonus is your shank is shorter / less exposed which helps keeps...

I bought 2 575ss from keg connection in August (arrived 8/12), they both have the etched P on them, which I personally like.

Hey, that's my setup, give it back! Correct, no keg is hooked to both. I have one 2 body reg for CO2 and a one body reg for the beer gas. For my specific setup I find that I typically keep the dual body at different serving pressures, as much to do with my line balance as beer style...

Looking at it I think the premium includes Taprite regulator bodies and gauges, the standard does not. There may be other differences as well. The Taprite can be hand adjusted, bleeds pressure when adjusting down (many bodies require you to bleed/pour a beer before the pressure is lowered)...

DIY go crazy: Like the link, use for both chilling FC and beer. Use the bottom to chill beer. In kegs. Use the freezer to keep the FC AND the beer lines cool/cold. Naturally you will run the beer lines from the garage fridge into the house for a through-the-wall faucet setup. Having built a...

I'm also going to ignore your question (because I really don't know). I will say if this is an issue with bottles, don't start kegging.