Recent content by Neptune

Do you know if this is the stuff you're referring to? And if so, I need to run about 15 feet of a bead across the seams. The kit doesn't seem to indicate an amount. Think it will be enough?

Thanks for the replies... Still thinking about which way to go. Another suggestion was to use fiberglass resin. Even if it doesn't stick to the material it will be a molded form that would act as a kind of waterproof insert...

So I'm building this portable kegerator... It's unfinished right now (still needs a cover, trim, tap, wheels, handle, etc.) but I've already got a problem and I'm hoping to get some suggestions from you guys (and gals). I scored a free 4x8 sheet of 1/4" hdpe and a sheet of 2" foam so I...

I've had a 20 gal pot for about a year with no issues... Probably 15 batches or so (biab). I'd definitely buy another one if I needed it.

Agreed. I do it as an extra precaution... I could probably use a better one myself.:mug:

I think MagicMatt is on the right track here, but I would also like to reiterate another possibility if you're still struggling with it... Temperature differential between the liquid in your keg and the ambient temp in your keezer (a good circulating fan is critical for this reason). I make...

Pretty sure the only way is to take it off gas and keep venting it... I've heard that you can shake the keg and vent it to accelerate the process, but that seems messy.

Yeah, it's almost certainly CO2 and the reason could be due to overcarbing. Or it could be due to a damaged O-ring on the liquid side (unlikely if it just started happening to all three at the same time as you changed to a new setup with no issues before). Another very real possibility is that...

If the carbonation is correct inside the keg then I agree with this, and the reasons for it would come down to line length, temperature differential, etc... This is what I suggested. If the beer is overcarbonated inside the keg then his old setup would reveal this because he would be...

If you can get a good pour out of your old set up, then it's not overcarbed... In that case it's likely, as stated, that your lines are warmer than your keg. I battled this for a while. It's annoying. Good luck.

If you carbed them cold this time the same way you used to carb them warm... they are overcarbed. I carb mine cold around that pressure but it's done in 36 hours. Yours sound overcarbed. Try your old 2 ft party tap and see if you can get a good pour.

Blending is your friend. I do this all the time, sometimes just because I need the space for another keg in my keezer (don't forget to change the name of the beer on the chalkboard :D). Probably start with blending a similar style until you get more brave....

I just brewed a 10 gal IPA and pitched into two seperate ferment buckets... One mason jar was S-05 and one was WY1318. Both jars were at least 5 months old (harvested slurry) possibly approaching 7 months old (real good record keeping, I know). Anyway, I forgot to make starters and just threw...

So I kegged it a couple days ago and finally got to taste it fully carbed today. As you can see (mine is on the right, real deal on the left), the color is not quite right... But I must say that I have had cloudy cans of Epiphany in the past. The last two releases from them have been crystal...

Thanks for the input. Forgot to mention I'm kegging not bottling...