Recent content by Munsoned

I just use a towel to fan air over the surface during the break. Seems to work fine for me. A fan pointed at the boil would do the same thing (as someone else already suggested).

I have the 40 qt AHS pot (but without the spigot, etc.)--just the basic pot. I've been happy with it. I'm about 40 batches in--no problems with it at all. Obviously, I can't attest to the therm/spigot/etc., but those are easily replaced if there is a problem so long as the hole is done right.

you say you didn't use a starter, but how much yeast did you pitch? One vial? One dry pack? Was it an ale or lager? I seem to think that the more of the brewers yeast you added, the less likely a foreign yeast or other bug would be able to take root.

I just push the tube down the wand a good 4-5 inches, and use my fingers to sort of pinch the tube against the wand when in use. I haven't heard any gas escaping at the tube end, but then again, I've never really listened for it either...

Does the OP sanitize the bottles (i.e., with Star San) before using them (after using the Oxiclean)? If so, doesn't that solve the slime problem? Personally, I would not bottle a beer after just an oxiclean bath--I'd still use a separate sanitizer first. Steps: 1) soak bottles in oxyclean to...

I brew sour beers, so contamination comes with my "brewery territory." I basically just try not to sneeze on the beer. ;) J/K. I actually start with Oxiclean to clean/get the chunks out, then Iodophor, then re-sanitize AGAIN with Star San. I don't use gloves, but I don't touch anything with...

Yes. Mine clouds up immediately too when I mix it. I think it has to do with the mineral content of the water. The pH is the most important factor, not the "look" of the solution. If you still have doubts, get some cheap pH strips to double-check.

My theory: two leaks. First could have been anywhere (and may still be anywhere), hence the lost CO2 without the spill. Second one: he has a leak at the "outbound" connector at the top of the cider keg. Gas is getting into the keg, and pushing the cider up the dip tube and out the keg...

My non-elegant solution: buy a second 5 lb tank to keep in reserve. Found mine cheap (on sale) at kegconnection last year.

I seem to think that the freezer is either on or off (i.e., the freezer's thermostat doesn't change the "freezing power" of the unit, it just tells the unit that a temperature has been reached and switches the compressor on/off.) Thus, I keep mine turned all the way down to the lowest setting...

Looks like it would also be easy to add ice directly to the water baths to quicken the cooling process (especially after the wort gets down to a reasonable temperature--for those last few degrees), whereas when I want to add ice (to my IC system) I need to do a prechiller setup, which is a PITA...

I got the 1/2" threaded version. Made it easy to go to HD and other sources to buy almost any type of fittings (in my case, quick disconnects). If I wanted to I could easily take them out and screw in barbs or whatever. Thus, the threads may require more $$ up front for fittings, but it may...

This is exactly what I did too. The cooler is awesome. I often get 0*F loss over an hour. It's REALLY insulated well. I think I also got mine from K-Mart after looking just about everywhere else (walmart, target, HD, etc.). Good luck!

As noted above, the cloudiness is just the mineral reaction with the water. The pH is what really matters.

I'd try the Oregon puree in the secondary (I definitely wouldn't boil it). I did this with an Apricot wheat a year ago and the flavor washed out in the ferment, so I supplemented with an extract, which turned out ok. Good luck, and post your results!