Recent content by KegHead

Looks good. A lot of jockey boxes have choke lines to drive up the dispensing pressure. This allows serving at 30+ psi. When beer heats up, it releases co2 based on the pressure. If the pressure is low, like 14 psi, it will form bubbles in the line and create foam. If the keg and lines are...

Thanks for the reply! Ive always based my formulas off of internal flow diameter, and never wall thickness...this is the first ive seen wall thickness used in this contex in place of the ID. Typically 3/16 ID is said to have between 1.5-3 psi/ft of pressure drop.

Can you explain the 68' of line comment?

Yeah...but thats with 90 duro viton o-rings in oilfield tools. Theyre actually pretty tough even in that application. They also make brass versions if youre worried. Those shouldnt break...but can be hazardous to your seal gland if youre not careful. Always try to use a pick with material...

O ring pick maybe?

Is the plate rolled sheet metal or scrap pipe?

3d printing something that size would cost several hundred and still look like crap. I like the cutting it to size idea...just find someone with a band saw....or cowboy up and hack saw it.

You are correct. It is not good to leave the keg pressurized with a beergas set up for an extended period of time (a day is long in this case). If you want to set and forget, nitro is the way to go. If youll be serving a lot quickly (events, coffee shop...etc)...beergas will be optimum.

This is what i would do. A router will make easy work of recessing hinges to an extent. You will always see a little gap. Trim hides a lot as well.

Thatll be a huge air gap and your efficiency will drop quite a bit. Why not just make the top piece slide on and off? It doesnt need to be hinged to the collar at all.

Neat Concept, Now I'd worry about the kids hitting their heads on the corner...but I'm not sure how old the are. I'd also worry about the handle clearance and drip try already mentioned. If you're clumsy enough to bump taps, you're also going to spill the drip tray, bump the box, smack the tap...

It actually looks like 15' of 3/16 ID beer line is about 2.8 fl oz. You can either just dump the first few ounces or rely on the rest of the beer to equalize to a temp in the low 40s. Id insulate the lines so theres no heat exchange during transit.

Yes, the length of the lines help one serve at the ideal pressure as that is a method of "tuning" fluid resistance.

Regulator, manifold, co2 lines, clamps, couplers, beer nuts...etc. I cant see your cart so im not sure what your actually planning to buy. And yes, its X' lines for each keg depending on serving pressure and faucet.

Without enough line resistance, it can be difficult to simply add pressure and get the pour you need as well. Generally speaking though, If you cant keep the keg, jumper lines and coil and a relatively steady state temperature....you need to set it up for higher pressure. I have used a jockey...