Recent content by jyorger

I understand the cavitation from the steam but I had a difficult time removing my impeller from the shaft until it cooled down. Maybe the cavitation removed the lubricating liquid which causes the shaft more friction and makes it expand more that it should.

My new riptide did same think. Squeal and stop pumping during boil. Took head off... impeller was stuck to shaft from the heat expanding everything.

I'm in

I scaled this up to 10 gallon using beer smith. I hit the og perfect but my mash final runnings were 1.007. I believe that's low enough to extract tannins. Beer is still in secondary so I don't know how it turned out yet but what gravity were others final runnings

I wrapped with reflectix, a layer of duct tape to push down wrinkles, then coated with mastic to cover tape seams. Then painted with latex enamel for the color I wanted.

I love the idea. But I've not tried it.

that is great news. thank you

Ya mash is bottom drain. It's on the right in the photo

i have bcs-460. i bought 2 probes from brewers hardware, they have 4 wires. and 2 probes from Embedded Control Concepts before BH bought them, they have 2 wires. The B.H. probes say to change to coefficients in the BCS. will that mess up my other 2 probes?

My outlet is on the bottom curve of the keg. First the outlet goes down to a chugger pump and up to a 3 way valve straight into the tangential inlet. That gets the hops and hot break forming in the middle of the kettle. Then I turn 3 way valve to go to a brewers hardware filter into a blichmann...

1 inch. All my tri clamp equipment came from brewers hardware.

I have a whirlpool boil keggle. I have bottom dump to clean and an outlet where the bottom curve of the keg is to drain wort. I use a pump to improve the whirlpool and welded pegs in to hold a damn to help keep the cone of hops and break material from exiting keg.

Trying to make a stainless one. Going very slow because I have to finish the brewery first

If I had a cnc machine I would have a plexiglass house