Recent content by Golyo

87-95°C (189-203°F) is higher than what I use when adding whirlpool hops. I thought 80°C (176°F) is the recommended temperature for that.

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How do you know the age of each beer? I am assuming only those places run them on tap that can sell a keg in 3 weeks. How do you know the age of the can? Best before date can mean anything. In my country craft breweries wary 6, 12, 18 and 24 months longevity pretty randomly on their brews, so it...

Wow. You're not going to share information because you want an edge in homebrew contests? You are on a forum, stating that you are here only to read and talk ****, because, well, nobody is interested in a method that you are not going to share. On another note, thanks, Braufessor for the...

I've basically written down all my process step by step and tried to make an argument. Yeah, kegging is great, but I haven't spent that much on equipment since I started brewing that I'd need to start kegging. 4-5-6 kegs, CO2 tank, beergun, kegerator etc. I will make that step sometime in the...

I think it can be if you cannot do closed transfers. That's what I said, that's what he replied to. Do you ferment in kegs?

I am bottling from my secondary bucket. Racking from primary after 3 days to dryhop. Sugar is in the bottle. Bottle is lukewarm, no cold crashing. My theory is that the yeast is active and eats up the oxygen really fast. Carbonation is done in 5 days at 25 °C. My beer stays very good for about 4...

I will get to that sometime. Probably an O2 tank arrives first.

I honestly think with NEIPA bottling might be advantageous if you cannot do closed transfers. I have a bottle filler, and use warm bottles, so the yeast eats up the oxygen really fast after bottling. At least that is my theory because they last 4 weeks easily. Only time I had a problem with...

I have never said they don't oxidize. They do, but they keep up for 5-6 weeks. I just had one tonight 3 weeks after bottling and it was ace. It will have no problem lasting another two weeks, I think, from experience. I keep them in a cool place now, obviously, but not in the fridge.

Can you capture that aroma with CO2 capture after the dry-hopping? You probably need to cool the beer at the end a little to dissolve the CO2 back. Cold-crashing would be counterintuitive with this style, I think.

Every hop addition pushes out some dissolved CO2 from your flat beer, but I also increase the temperature a little at the same time, to make the yeast work a little more. I don't cold crash ever and have no problem with oxidation. I bottle usually at around 23°C into lukewarm bottles.

HAS to be. Why?

We actually know that yeast in good shape and numbers do a better work. Chris White has a beautiful graph about it in his book on yeast. But, well, we all know that, don't we?

In much fewer words your experiment does not adhere to scientific standards.