Recent content by Gibberoni

You are already pretty close to the amperage limit of the circuit with the boil coil and pump. You usually want to have a 10% buffer between your average load and your breaker (ex: if you draw 20amps during normal operation, and 25 amp breaker would be needed). With 1 pump and a 2250w system...

That was one of my concerns as well, but the lager was actually a 10 gallon batch! ~14 into the BK and ~12.5 into the fermenter with ~10 gallons into the kegs. My milk stout that I brewed recently was only a 5gal, and was way more efficient. I simply dont have the process down yet on what I am...

I will try this next and see how it goes, thanks as always.

Thanks for the reply MadKing. As far as volumes, I am spot on with those in Beersmith. I am usually with 1/10 of a gallon of what my expected results are when brewing. LHBS Crush. It was working fine for my batch sparging but it is not working well for fly sparging! My thought next is to...

I think I am going to record my next brewing session and share it with you all, to help me identify where I am doing things wrong. I brewed a milk stout the other weekend, with an estimated OG of 1.054, and ended up around 1.040. I just cant figure out what I am doing wrong. I have tried...

I currently use a garden hose to fill my containers and have no issues. I did not get the cheap brands from stores, its a middle range (~$30 for 25ft). I run the hose for 5 minutes AFTER it starts to come out cold, and dump all of that water. Then I start filling again. I find if I use the water...

I bought a kit that came with a threaded connection, and took out the push to fit fitting where the mash return line went, and screwed in the loc line there.

Wire is going to be one of the biggest costs, based on how far you are from the box. I installed this run myself. The load center (breaker box) is about 5 ft up and to the left from the edge of the picture. 30amp GFCI: $25 (I work at Eaton, so yeah that was nice, usually $110) 25' 10/3 +...

I did a 2 hour mash and stirred during the mash multiple times. I also installed loc-line braid in a circular pattern to help with the channeling from the hose that came with the setup.

With me, I simply open the BK input valve by a crack. I do the same with the MLT input from the HLT and then open and close every 15 or so minutes. I maintain a relatively stable layer of water over the mash. I would also like to say that today's brew was actually ON TARGET! Brewed my Wee Heavy...

Nice! Enjoy your first brew with it.

I did change from a 1.25 ratio to 1.5... maybe I am too thin now? I thought the spike system needed a bit thinner of a mash to help with the recirculation. Another thing on the list to try then! 1) Add alpha amylase (to help with the conversion) 2) Drop back to a 1.25 liquid to grain ratio 3)...

This was a 7 gallon (5 to be kegged) batch. I usually do 14 gallon batches (10 to keg and whatever is left to bottle), but I am out of kegs! Need more friends to drink faster :)

I apologize if I came off as "crybaby"ish in that post. Only frustrated. I have been brewing for around 10 years and up until recently, I was brewing really well with my cooler setup. I was hitting my numbers and making great beer, and I wanted to take my experience and brewing to the next level...

Alright, so my buddy and I brewed on Saturday. My on my Spike 20 gallon system, and him with my old cooler mash method. One would think that the $5K setup would deliver much better results... Overall the mash in a cooler method yielded 78% efficiency on a 5 gallon batch. Missed OG by going over...