Recent content by eskoenig34

Thanks for all of the helpful suggestions. I check and tightened all connections (no change), checked the current with a clamp-on meter (everything was fine), then swapped out the breaker--this seemed to solve the problem. Thanks again all!!

It's 50A-based, and I only run one element at a time.

Great advice. I'll redo the connections and test the temps. I've also noticed that the boil kettle contactor heats up quite a bit during a brew, but not the HLT one. The connection may be an issue as well for that.

Yes, that's correct. The GFCI trips. After a cooling-down period, I can turn it back on, and the overheating cycle continues.

I've had my electric system running for over 2 years now without problems, but lately my 50A spa panel overheats and shuts off on me. If I open the door and blow a fan on it, no problem. I've tightened all the connections and haven't otherwise made any changes to the system in two years...

Sold!!

I have a Chillus Convolutus CFC that's about 2 years old. Works perfectly, and is sold at MoreBeer for about $200. I'll let this one go for $120 plus shipping. Eric

Thanks. I did a little more research on the forums (I don't know how I missed it before), but I'm going to try passedpawn's idea of blowing air into the sight glass with an aquarium pump. Seems like an elegant solution.

I have a 5500 Camco element in my converted keg HLT, and noticed that when I add my strike water once it's come to temp, the initial gallon or so is as much as 20 degrees cooler. After taking some temp readings in and around the element, I've come to learn that the water directly under the...

Thanks so much!

My question appears to have been asked a few times, but quite honestly, I'm unsure of the right answer. I'm finishing up my 50A build (4-wires coming into the control panel) and my element receptacles are of the 3-prong non-grounding type. I attached my elements to 3-prong dryer cords, and...