Recent content by BMWillis

You only need one, order up a 5A and call it a day :mug: Edit: Hell, you could even order a 6 and save a few bucks. Only things 5A has that 6 doesnt is iron and phosphorus, and they aren't required inputs on Bru'n Water

Reversing the hop schedule would definitely contribute to the over-bitterness, but that 'rubbing alcohol' taste is probably fusel alcohols from fermenting too warm and stressing out your yeast.

Yeah, I'm already over this heat wave shenanigans. Ready for crisp fall mornings and fall seasonal beers :mug: Temp definitely got a little warm so you might get some esters or fusel alcohols. Also, 1.082 is a pretty dang big beer. It might need even more time to get rid of all those...

Are you planning on starting out using extracts, or jumping in head first to all-grain? If you'll be using extract, you wont need to worry about water chemistry just yet. As long as your water tastes good, you'll be good to go. Treat with campden tablets just for peace of mind and brew on! If...

I'd say since you're rocking extract batches right now, I wouldn't stress out too much over water chemistry. If you're going to use your tap water to brew, I'd treat it with Campden tablets and call it good. If you want a little more piece of mind, use RO water. That being said, if you do...

I learned that I need to remember to submit the recipe form next time. Still scored pretty well, but most of the notes I got for the fruit beer I entered were 'hard to judge the beer without knowing what fruit/base beer you used' :mug:

I'd definitely avoid using your tap water while you're under an alert. General rule of thumb for extract batches I always heard was 'if your water tastes good, its probably okay to brew with' Since your recipe calls for soft water, you'll still need to look up your municipalities water report...

Taste and clarity wise? Nope. Don't get clear or green bottles though. Brown bottles will keep out ~98% of the bad stuff that skunks your beer. Its been a while since I've bottled, but I always remember 22s taking a couple days longer to fully carb up, but that could have just been my...

I don't have any experience with sours yet, but I have read multiple times that anything plastic that comes into contact with the wort, needs to be used for sour beers from that point on

Rob is 100% correct in all the points he made, I'll chip in a couple pennies worth of advice: -RHAHBDW! You've done all the work, this batch is well on its way to beer. -Airlock activity (or lack thereof) isn't a reliable indication of fermentation. You said you cracked the lid and saw...

Pull'em out and let them get back to room temp, no damage done. Once they get back up to room temp I'd think about gently rousing by turning the bottles upside down once or twice, get those sleepy yeast back to work! :mug:

The blonde has 23.4 IBU according to Beersmith. Next go round I'm going to up it to ~30 as the GP and Honey malt definitely dominate the flavor. Probably do away with the 30 and 10 minute charges, up the 60 minute charge to get the IBUs, and give it a bigger flameout/whirlpool charge as well...

Golden Centennial: 7# Golden Promise 1# Vienna .5# C10 .5# Carapils .25# Honey malt Mashed at 150 for 60min .3oz Centennial @ 60 .25oz Centennial @ 30 .3oz Cascade @ 10 .3oz Cascade @ 5 Rehydrated Nottingham Rube-a-Like: 8# 2-row 1# Flaked wheat .5# Carapils .25#...

First off, I just want to thank all of the users that respond to all of the beginner threads for all of the knowledge they bestow upon all of us new brewers! First thing I do when I get my cup of coffee in the morning is hop on HBT and check to see if I can learn anything new :mug: I decided...

I'd keep it in the pail, no need to need to transfer to a secondary. Just increases the chance of oxidizing the beer. You definitely can dry hop now, but I think you might be rushing a little bit. If it were me, I wouldn't touch it until at least day 10. Day 10 - take a sample for a SG...