Pilot light scorched mash in RIMS?

Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum

Help Support Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

basline

Active Member
Joined
Feb 5, 2008
Messages
28
Reaction score
0
First off, thanks HBT for all the valuable information. I've drawn heavily on this forum assembling my brutus 10 clone (thanks for the awesome plans Lonnie).

It's taken me ages to get my rig up and running, and I brewed on it for the first time this weekend. As to be expected a number of things went wrong in the first go around, and if I can't troubleshoot them all I'll follow up with additional posts. The issue I wasn't expecting is that the pilot light on my honeywell VR8200 valve feeding a BQ 14 burner ended up leaving a big scorch mark directly above the pilot light in my mash tun.

I'm running one of jaybrid's false bottoms (so a full false bottom) and I had to run the mash in manual mode. I did not recirculate with a pump the whole time, but whenever I turned the burner on I would let the pump run while firing and then for a while afterwards. I did a 60 minute mash ( fortunately of a dark beer, and so far it tastes fine). When I pulled out the false bottom while cleaning I found a circle about 3" in diameter of scorched matter above the standing pilot light.

There is a picture attached of how I have mounted the pilot light. Its almost at the edge of the pot, where there is the least amount dead space with my keggle and false bottom. I had a hell of a time figuring out a way to mount the pilot lights. That's the one thing that no one seems to have documented very well, and I stumbled across the problem right when I was running out of motivation the problems just keep arising during the build process. I couldn't figure out how to mount the pilot onto the burner (despite atleast one post of someone doing that here), so I ended up drilling into the brewer's hardware windscreen and bolting it on.


Now for my laundry list of questions:
It will suck to move the pilot light, but would that fix the problem? If I do move it, any suggestions on where to remount it? The pilot light seemed to be putting out alot of flame, I'm pretty confident I swapped to the propane orifice, but if I got it mixed up with the NG orifice would that cause this problem? Do people think there are other fixes without tweaking the pilot light?

If I run the pump for the whole mash would this fix the problem? I'm not sure if the grain bill (which was probably way too big for a first attempt on a new rig, almost 40#) played a role. I would just try another batch, but I've promised a friend half a batch of pliney the elder clone for my next brew, and I'm not going to risk scorching that. I'd really rather not have to move to HERMS already, as I was really excited to mostly be done with my setup, but is that the smartest course of action?

Any and all insight would be greatly appreciated. After almost a year of tinkering it felt great to brew on this thing. But a scorched mash is a serious setback. Pointers would be appreciated.

pilotlight.jpg
 
Kind of hard to see at that angle.........Is that the thermocouple sticking up there, for the pilot light gas valve?

What's the string and the plastic stuff there?

Edit: what I am getting at is I don't think I see the actual pilot light burner orifice.
 
Sorry for the bad picture, don't get home early enough for daylight. My stand lives out side so the plastic is knead-able eraser to keep spiders and what not out of my gas plumbing.

In short, the pilot is basically level with the burner height. The tall deal is the thermocouple, and the burner is behind it with the plastic stuffed inside the housing.
 
Got it!
So, you are seeing a scorched spot in your mash, that corresponds with your pilot light, yes?
Can you put a "hood" or "shroud" over it, and make a close fitting hole for the thermocouple to fit through?

Keep the hood high enough to not obstruct the flame path to your burner, and use some of the existing mount "pickup" points to attach the hood, or attach it to the vertical leg of the pilot burner.

The pilot flame will then bear on your "hood" and not on the bottom of your mash tun.

Bend up a small piece of stainless.
 
What would be the downside to continuous recirculation? Seems like that would be the easiest fix. You'll have to continuously recirc when you run it in auto mode anyway (unless you set controls so that pump turns on with burner, though that would be complicated bc you want to run the pump for a bit after the burner turns itself off). So might as well continuously recirc now...
 
Can you put a "hood" or "shroud" over it, and make a close fitting hole for the thermocouple to fit through?

Keep the hood high enough to not obstruct the flame path to your burner, and use some of the existing mount "pickup" points to attach the hood, or attach it to the vertical leg of the pilot burner.

The pilot flame will then bear on your "hood" and not on the bottom of your mash tun.

Bend up a small piece of stainless.

I like this idea, elegantly simple and low cost. I'm clearly to frustrated with this whole thing to totally miss the simple solution. I think I have some scrap 18 gauge stainless sitting around. Think that will be beefy enough to hold up? I'll follow up with better pictures when I have time to pull this together.


As to:
What would be the downside to continuous recirculation?
I'm just a turn the lights off when I leave the room kind of guy. I figured that I'd only need to run the pump while the burner was firing, and the novelty of controlling the pump with my control panel hasn't totally worn off yet. There wasn't really a down side other than spending maybe another cent in electricity to run the pump the whole time. I definitely plan to just run the pump next time, and will skip working on integrating pump automation into my PID control setup.

My main concern now is that even with recirculation for the whole mash that the pilot light might still scorch. Hopefully rigging a quasi-heat shield will fix it.

Thanks guys, it'll take a few days (or weeks) but Ill follow up.
 
I only see that if drain the MLT and leave the pilot lit. The small amount of wort left over burns like a mofo and is no fun to clean.
Solution is to turn off the pilot when done mashing.
 
Back
Top