Need help breaking down what's going wrong with my IPAs

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sledgewinston

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I've been home brewing for almost two years. I've made some decent IPAs in the past, but after a hiatus and moving my system to a new place I haven't been able to make a single one worth keeping. They aren't terrible by any means, and there aren't any particular off flavors. The biggest issue is that they either completely lack ANY flavor at all, or have a very weak flavor.
I've tried many different approaches and alterations of my water (it's been lab tested by Ward and I use Bru'n Water for any additions and alterations), my hopping amounts/varieties and schedules, mash temps, mash pHs, target efficiencies, malt bills, yeast strains and fermentation temps (which is controlled in a converted chest freezer). With all the different changes along the way, they all totally lack any malty or hoppy flavor.
I constantly read about and study these different parts of the brewing process and make changes based on educated sources, but haven't found a solution yet.

Here is an example of one of my latest recipes. It was intended to be a "NEIPA".

All Grain
Batch Size: 6.50 gal.
Brewhouse Efficiency: 75%
Calculated IBUs: 70.5
OG: 1.065
FG: 1.014

6.6# Pale U.S. 2-Row
4.8# Golden Promise
1.5# Carafoam
0.85# Aromatic Malt
0.5# Corn Sugar (Added w/ 10 min left in boil)

Mashed at 154* for 60 minutes w/ room temp pH of 5.25
Fly sparged with water adjusted to pH of 5.5
Collected about 8.25 gal. into the kettle. Final lauter runnings were above 1.012.

Boil:
0.45oz Columbus FWH

0.25oz Amarillo 20min
0.25oz Citra 20min
0.25oz Mosaic 20min

0.45oz Amarillo 15min
0.45oz Citra 15min
0.45oz Mosaic 15min

0.65oz Amarillo 10min
0.65oz Citra 10min
0.65oz Mosaic 10min

1.50oz Amarillo 1min
1.50oz Citra 1min
1.50oz Mosaic 1min

(The 20,15 and 10 min additions were actually put in at 10 minutes less than written above (so really 10,5,0.) I put them in this way into Beersmith to account for the additional time they are at isomerization temps after flameout. The 1 min addition was actually the whirlpool addition done below 180*. I whirlpooled for 60 minutes before chilling to 70* where I pitched the yeast)
I didn't use any hop bags or anything and just stirred with the mash paddle to create the whirlpool.

(Side note: all of my hops are 2016 pellets that I bought from either Yakima or Hops Direct that come vacuum sealed and nitrogen flushed. I seal and freeze the hops in between use)

The target water profile calculated by Bru'n Water was as follows:
Ca 26ppm, Mg 13ppm, Na 83ppm, S04 103ppm, CaCl 137ppm, Bicarbonate -120 MASH pH: 5.24

I achieved this using Calcium Chloride, Gypsum, Epsom Salt, Sodium Chloride and Lactic Acid.
Additions were added to both the mash and sparge water per Bru'n water's recommendations. All additions were pre dissolved in water prior to adding them.
I have also done similar water profiles where the Calcium levels were around 100ppm and Sodium levels were <10ppm which seemingly made no difference. From what I've gathered, the malt provides plenty of Calcium and Magnesium and the Sodium levels above are well below taste threshold and according to some studies can accentuate the malt flavors in the beer. That's basically how I ended up with this profile for this particular batch. However, both ways ended up with weak flavored beers.

About 5.5 gal. ended up in the fermentor (glass carboy) and I pitched 2 packets of S-04 (neither were rehydrated) at 70* and fermented for six days at 67* which is when I raised it to 70* and added my dry hops (1.50oz Amarillo, Citra, Mosaic) and left it like that for four days, so 10 days total.

After the 10th day I transferred the beer off the trub and into a corny keg with a closed C02 system. I crashed the beer in the corny to 38* for three days before force carbing. I tasted the beer prior to carbonation and it had a SLIGHT fruity aroma but basically no malt or hop flavor. Barely any noticeable bitterness either. I used to dry hop in the keg with nylon bags but after getting no aroma out of it I figured that more transfers meant a bigger chance of oxidation so I switched to doing it in the primary towards the end of fermentation so any oxygen that got in would be taken up by the yeast as it finished.

I'm starting to run out of ideas for what could be going wrong. I've tried many different variations and every single one has the same exact flavor: None. It's really confusing and I'm at a loss at the moment. If anyone has any input or ideas please let me know! If I left out any information about the brew that you think would be useful for me to add, let me know. Thanks!
 
I haven't brewed an IPA in a LONG time. Have you tried just a straight RO water brew for the heck of it? Might be worth a shot just for a baseline sort of thing.
 
(Side note: all of my hops are 2016 pellets that I bought from either Yakima or Hops Direct that come vacuum sealed and nitrogen flushed. I seal and freeze the hops in between use)

Have you tried with fresh hop pellets? You're nearing 2 years or more with those hops...even frozen I'd be wary to use those!
 
Have you tried with fresh hop pellets? You're nearing 2 years or more with those hops...even frozen I'd be wary to use those!

I just ordered some 2017 hops, so hopefully that'll make a difference. I have thought about that a lot, just figured I'd at least get something out of them since they still smell good.
 
Try 20, 5 and 0 min additions + at least 4 oz dry hop
This is my IPA with citra and mosaic... it is amazing:
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/forum/threads/lushjuice-ipa.643548/

*edit* I should try reading... I see now that you added dry hops below.
It sounds like your hops somehow got Oxidised and or/freezer burn a little bit. I've had hops that were older completely lose flavours
 
Last edited:
Have you been using S04 for all the IPAs recently that you haven’t liked?
 
I had similar problems, biggest thing that helped is starting with RO water.

Also, I personally would up the hops, that looks to be about 9 oz for your 5.5 gal. I use 8 oz for my 3 gallon batches.

Good luck!
 
It's not the water. It's pretty clear the OP has a very good handle on his water and PH throughout the process.

How are you purging your kegs when force transferring?
 
Has anyone else tried the beers, and what do they get for flavors? Your grain bill is basically malt-less so I am not surprised that you do not get any malt flavors.

I would have someone else try your beer to confirm what you are (and are not) tasting. I presume that commercial IPAs taste fine to you? The only plausible explanation to me is that your hops are oxidized garbage. What do they smell like? 70 IBU, heck, half of that should bring a noticeable hoppiness. Even if your hops were low AA substitutes, there still should be something there from the hops.
 
I have noticed that when I taste a fresh NEIPA I’ve brewed within a week of kegging it, it tastes like hop water. It usually has to sit in the keg for about 2 weeks for the flavors to come together.
 
It's not the water. It's pretty clear the OP has a very good handle on his water and PH throughout the process.

How are you purging your kegs when force transferring?

Well I must disagree, I have city water and if they change the reservoir the profile can be different. It has happened to me, so RO all the time now.
 
It sounds like the OP is treating his hops properly. I don't think it is the hops. All of my hops right now are older than that and I get good hop flavor. Less for sure, but not missing.

OP, think back to what you did when getting good flavor and do one that way. Forget all the changes that you have made in the mean time.

If you have better results, you can build from your new(old) baseline.
 
What is the aromatic malt in there for? I think that would compete with the hop flavors and is kind of a large addition for that particular malt in a 5 gallon batch.

Also increase the dry hops and add them earlier for NEIPA. Day 3 would not be too early.
 
Have you tried the no sparge method? I do this on brews <1.060 (15 gal tun) 122* 20 min protein rest at 1:1 then add boiling liquor to get to sac rest. then add rest of liquor for mashout and drain 1 time. This has improved my beer malt profile,along with hitting between 70 and 100 ppm of calcium. The calcium is very important for precipitating oxalate and building cell walls of yeast. I've been taught that 30 ppm of calcium is consumed in the mash and that yeast need at least 20 ppm. Also I would ditch the corn sugar add Munich malt for 1/2 the GP and mash at 150*.
 
I would circle back to a simple SMASH recipe and see if you can make a good tasting one that way. Try something with 100% Vienna and a hop that you really like. Stay away from the NEIPA's for a while since they are relatively difficult to keep from oxidizing.
 
Interested to know when the OP replies if he has been using different yeast and getting the same results. IMHO S04 can really mask hop flavor and aroma at times.

If you're going to do a SMASH my go to is Golden Promise. All the benefits of your average base malt but with just a touch of complexity.

How is a "NEIPA" easier to oxidize than any other highly hopped IPA?
 
How is a "NEIPA" easier to oxidize than any other highly hopped IPA?

I have a theory. It is the very bright fresh fruit flavors and especially aromas that are most easily lost to oxidation. Danker hop flavors and straight isomerized aa bitterness is less sensitive to oxidation. The NEIPAs has nothing to support the beer once those bright fruit flavors and aromas are gone and they just taste flabby sweet nastiness when they fade. The traditional UK and WC IPAs on other hand may lose some hop aroma and flavor over time but still have the substantial bitterness needed to retain drinkability after those brightest flavors start to fade.
 
Following, as I've had similar issues. I've only made one IPA I truly enjoyed, the rest were bleh.
 

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